Z-Bar and Clutch Rod Linkage won't line up. Help!?!?!

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jayhawkofku

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I have a 70 Duster, 360, 4 speed. When I install all of my linkage, the z-bar and clutch rod linkage do not line up. What's happening: the arm/lever that the clutch rod attaches to is about 1-2" left of the clutch rod. Meaning, that arm needs to be moved in closer to make the clutch rod linkage line up perfectly straight.

Am i using the wrong z-bar? Do i need to just re-locate the arm? I'm assuming I might have a /6 z-bar but have no measurements on what a /6, small block and big block z-bar are?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
 
Gonna do that first thing in the morning (they're closed for Carlisle).

It looks like the 63-66 A-Body might work, the swing arm is located near the end of the tube which would be perfect for my application. I'm guessing i've got the wrong z-bar or or wrong z-bar bracket (that attaches to the bellhousing).
 
So you know,there are 2 different brackets for small block bellhousings.
Which bracket you need depends on the part number/year of your bellhousing.
You also want to make sure you have a SB Z-bar. The pivot on the unibody should be the same.
As mentioned call Wayne at www.brewersperformance.com for all your 4spd parts and questions. Good guy.
 
I have always heard the /6 has a longer tube than the V8. I can't confirm this is accurate because I have never tried it. There was a thread about cutting down the /6 tube to fit the V8s.
 
Unfortunately, I cannot get to the numbers on my bellhousing. We literally just re-installed it after having to repalce the pilot bushing with a new pilot bearing. Pulling it to get part numbers is not something i'd like to do :violent1:

I was aware that there are two types of mounting brackets however, i think that only deals with how far forward or backwards the z-bar is positioned. I don't think that'll change where my z-bar is located left to right (fender to fender). I don't think a different bracket will draw the z-bar in an inch or so
 
jayhawkofku said:
Unfortunately, I cannot get to the numbers on my bellhousing. We literally just re-installed it after having to repalce the pilot bushing with a new pilot bearing. Pulling it to get part numbers is not something i'd like to do :violent1:

I was aware that there are two types of mounting brackets however, i think that only deals with how far forward or backwards the z-bar is positioned. I don't think that'll change where my z-bar is located left to right (fender to fender). I don't think a different bracket will draw the z-bar in an inch or so
Click to expand...

Can you use a mirror to get the numbers?
 
I thought the numbers were located exactly where the tranny bolts up to the bellhousing? So essentially, I'd have to under the bolts and pull the tranny a few inches out to get to them.

Or did i read this wrong from another site?
 
jayhawkofku said:
I thought the numbers were located exactly where the tranny bolts up to the bellhousing? So essentially, I'd have to under the bolts and pull the tranny a few inches out to get to them.

Or did i read this wrong from another site?
Click to expand...

I hadn't thought about where they are located but now that you mention it I think you are correct.
 
Agree with others about Brewers, they are a great source for parts and information. The link below outlines the install in my 72 Demon with pictures. I know you're not using the QuickTime bell, but I do list the part numbers (from Brewers) for z-bar and clutch fork. I can tell you from experience that if you have any one part wrong (fork, z-bar and brackets) it will not line up correctly.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=60549
 
So, this was a running combo and now won't go back together?

Is it possible to put a Z-bar in backwards?
 
It was a running combo that does not line up correctly anymore, yes. However, I'm starting to think it was never 100% correct from the get go.

So now the hunt is on to make sure every piece is correct before we proceed trying to make the current pieces work - won't be correct!

Is it possible, anyway at all, to tell what bellhousing I have w/o removing the tranny??
 
The rod from the pedals to z bar or the one from z-bar to fork?

My understanding and chopping them shorter, only diff in a /6 z-bar is the overall width of the tube. The arms are in the same position.

Look on the brewers site to compare your parts to the pictured items.
 
Can someone please confirm for me: i've only seen one fork for sale for small blocks. They're all the same, no different length forks for small blocks - correct? I'd like to rule that out as a possible issue. If the fork were just an inch longer, the linkage would work perfectly OR if the lever was moved closer to the engine lol something has to give!
 
We measured the best we could and got 11.5" - granted that's already installed so we could easily be off a 1/2"

Don't tell me I have a /6 fork??
 
It is 12-1/2 inches long according to the auction Frank Mitchell has up. Description below with auction link.

NOS MoPar #2781106 clutch fork with spring for all 1967, 1968, 1969, 1970, 1971 A Body Plymouth and Dodge Cars, Cuda, Dart, DeMon, Duster, GT, GTS, Swinger, Valiant, Sport, with 170, 225, 273, 318, and 340 engine with manual transmission. NOTE the absense of the extra holes where the Z bar rod goes.



http://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-68-69-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item53e3516459&vxp=mtr
 

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Not quite sure what holes are missing for the z-bar? The z-bar clutch rod goes through the small hole on the end...
 
jayhawkofku said:
Can someone please confirm for me: i've only seen one fork for sale for small blocks. They're all the same, no different length forks for small blocks - correct? I'd like to rule that out as a possible issue. If the fork were just an inch longer, the linkage would work perfectly OR if the lever was moved closer to the engine lol something has to give!
Click to expand...


Here is the bad news. There are different lengths in small block clutch forks.

CLUTCH FORK REPAIR KIT 10- 3/4" SMALL BLOCK B-BODY E-BODY MOPAR OEM
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CLUTCH-FORK...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d022dc55a&vxp=mtr
 

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Every mopar clutch fork diagram i've seen shows the clutch rod going through the main hole on the fork. What those two extra holes are, I have no idea. Does anyone else???
 
jayhawkofku said:
Every mopar clutch fork diagram i've seen shows the clutch rod going through the main hole on the fork. What those two extra holes are, I have no idea. Does anyone else???
Click to expand...

If I recall correctly they are for a spring. The entire hook goes through the big elongated hole and the end comes out the small hole.
 
If you look on the fork w/o the elongated hole - there is a small crease or cutout where the spring goes. So the question is - why did Mopar make two different forks?
 
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