Zombie Dart! '72 Dodge Dart

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Well since the gas tank was being stubborn and was getting on my nerves. I decided to put the rear bumper on and fix the taillights as a bunch broken lightbulbs were stuck in the sockets. I will post some pics up of the bumper on and the interior back together a little later. I also started redoing all the rubber lines in the fuel system right now. Im gonna blow out all the metal ones tomorrow when I pick up the carb from being dunked and get a new metal line from the fuel pump to the carb.

Here's some picks of the interior gutted. My floorboards are rusty sadly. I think I can fix it with some sheet metal and avoid going the AMD floorpan route as I am a cheapass. lol
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Ugh, rust. I dislike you soo much. Atleast its just metal that can be welded and fixed
 
71ChallengerSE said:
Its too cold to work outside, I really need a garage. Today I stripped a roadrunner it was 25*

Just keep at it. It will get done!
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Yep! Just gotta keep on truckin!8) I just took to bundling the hell up. I can hardly use the garage for a while without someone telling me it smells like fumes from something and they are getting nausea and I have to open the garage all the way. Though I never understand what the hell it is, I never smell it. The only thing I ever really spray in there is PB Blaster which is in small spritzes so I am at a loss there:dontknow:

Thank you TNPlumber, it should be on the road in time for next semester of school in January:cheers:. I got all my funds I need for the parts I need now so its all about getting it done
 
Here's the interior back in.:cheers:
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Here's my bumper on. The valance needs some working, but that's not important at the moment. Im really contemplating using that stock '71 340 intake on my 318 maybe. I've heard they flow great.
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So guys, things get weirder and weirder. My gas tank was installed in Virginia in 1976, but check out the gas tank. It has no place for all the emissions stuff. That is just beyond strange to me. Anyways, its down and its gonna be made like new, or as close to new as possible. Here's some pics. My dad was kind enough to help me drop it. I had to cut the O-ring though. Here it is on the ground and a crappy shot of the sticker and a crappy shot of the inside to boot:toothy10:
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Think imma replace the lock ring and sock and slap the sending unit back in after the cleaning. Damn, I wouldn't wish that stubborn tank on my worst enemy
 
Get it cleaned out and lets see if there are any holes!
 
needsaresto said:
Get it cleaned out and lets see if there are any holes!
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I hope not. It wasn't leaking at all when it had 10 gallons of gas in it.

I think from what Bruce told me, Im gonna need a new one and this one is probably unsaveable. It even has rust on the top of the inside of the tank. I feel sick right now just thinking about how much its gonna cost me to get a new tank
 
Good. Now lets hope the upper area's are solid. In my experience it's usually a seam near a tire that leaks first.

If it's good then you can use the eastwood sealer. Will be the cheapest alternative. Next step up from there is another gas tank,lol!! Gas tanks can be welded. I have done it. Best way is fill the tank with water or car exhaust. You may also be interested in a product called seal all if the holes are not big.

Also let me know if I can help with getting you a tank! Maybe somebody can donate a gently used one?
 
Go to O'reilly's and ask for a quart of Red Kote and follow the instructions. But since it does not have emissions fittings, your car will not pass inspection in Georgia. As of now, there are no exemptions, either. It has to pass. Good luck.

http://www.dmv.com/ga/georgia/emissions-testing
 
It has emissions fittings. The top tube is the vent line to the charcoal canister and the lower is the fuel feed.

The gas tank is Spectra C11E. If you buy one through Adv...oops...the parts store, it's about $396.

But, there's the exact same tank offered on eBay with a $140.00 buy it now.

Just search dart fuel tank. Be sure if you go that route that you get the C11E, not the C11B. B doesn't have the vent fitting.
 
TylerW said:
It has emissions fittings. The top tube is the vent line to the charcoal canister and the lower is the fuel feed.

The gas tank is Spectra C11E. If you buy one through Adv...oops...the parts store, it's about $396.

But, there's the exact same tank offered on eBay with a $140.00 buy it now.

Just search dart fuel tank. Be sure if you go that route that you get the C11E, not the C11B. B doesn't have the vent fitting.
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Indeed.
 
TylerW said:
It has emissions fittings. The top tube is the vent line to the charcoal canister and the lower is the fuel feed.

The gas tank is Spectra C11E. If you buy one through Adv...oops...the parts store, it's about $396.

But, there's the exact same tank offered on eBay with a $140.00 buy it now.

Just search dart fuel tank. Be sure if you go that route that you get the C11E, not the C11B. B doesn't have the vent fitting.
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Good price!!! And great info! Well done tylerw and thanks on behalf of Dartt and Fabo.

Thats about what I paid for my cop car tank at the local jobber store here. I think the Spectra tank is Canadian made.
 
The joys of having a project car lol.... be prepared to be nickel and dimed.

I try to work on my duster when and if I can afford it.

hope you are able to get your up to par so you can start cruising with it!!!

to fix your floor pans the right way they should be replaced. BUT to stay budget minded....for the time being until you can get around to getting replacements.....

you could clean off all the rust and treat it with some kind of rust eliminator and you could paint it/prime it or por15 it to stop the rust from getting any bigger until you have a chance to replace it.

then you can take some tin (go to your local realitors office or something and ask if they have any beat up metal for sale signs you can have) and cut it to the size you want and lay it on your floor and beat it with a hammer to get it contoured to your floor as best as you can (cut some relief notches where needed) and then you can take self tapping screws and screw the patch down to your floors. afterwords you could get some caulk or roofing tar or something and coat the bottom and top sides of the floor where you patched which will keep it water resistant.

that would make for a good temporary fix....it would actually hold up for years to come ....but if you have plans to buy a pan lets say a year from now....it will for sure do you just fine until then!
 
Mike on your floorpans brush as much of the loose rust as possible and apply rust treatment then get a fiberglass kit for about $20 and follow directions cutting cloth be enough to cover holes and mix enough resin and hardener to cover then move on to next hole. You will be impressed how easy it actually is. Good luck Joe
 
StrokerScamp said:
Go to O'reilly's and ask for a quart of Red Kote and follow the instructions. But since it does not have emissions fittings, your car will not pass inspection in Georgia. As of now, there are no exemptions, either. It has to pass. Good luck.

http://www.dmv.com/ga/georgia/emissions-testing
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Just found the Red Kote instructions. Imma give it a shot! It sounds like a good product. Here's a link to the instructions. Seems simple enough!
http://www.damonq.com/TechSheets/Red-Kote.pdf

needsaresto said:
Good price!!! And great info! Well done tylerw and thanks on behalf of Dartt and Fabo.

Thats about what I paid for my cop car tank at the local jobber store here. I think the Spectra tank is Canadian made.
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Yep!! Thanks Tyler!! I will definately go this route if I can't fix my tank with $40 of Red Kote. The people of the internet seem to like it alot and it seems to be so easy, I can't screw it up:toothy10:

DusterDude72 said:
The joys of having a project car lol.... be prepared to be nickel and dimed.

I try to work on my duster when and if I can afford it.

hope you are able to get your up to par so you can start cruising with it!!!

to fix your floor pans the right way they should be replaced. BUT to stay budget minded....for the time being until you can get around to getting replacements.....

you could clean off all the rust and treat it with some kind of rust eliminator and you could paint it/prime it or por15 it to stop the rust from getting any bigger until you have a chance to replace it.

then you can take some tin (go to your local realitors office or something and ask if they have any beat up metal for sale signs you can have) and cut it to the size you want and lay it on your floor and beat it with a hammer to get it contoured to your floor as best as you can (cut some relief notches where needed) and then you can take self tapping screws and screw the patch down to your floors. afterwords you could get some caulk or roofing tar or something and coat the bottom and top sides of the floor where you patched which will keep it water resistant.

that would make for a good temporary fix....it would actually hold up for years to come ....but if you have plans to buy a pan lets say a year from now....it will for sure do you just fine until then!
Click to expand...

Sounds like a good idea!! I may try that if I can find some tin signs. My dad used to work for one of the real estate companies around here and they seems to wanna never let anything go. They'd rather throw it in the trash then give it away for free. But its worth a shot!8)
 
The biggest thing with the Red Kote is makin SURE it's cured. I've done small engine tanks with it that took a week to dry completely. Just do other stuff on the car til it dries ALL the way. Cause it's not impervious to gas till it's slam cured. And remember the gravel trick I told you about too.
 
red67gts said:
Mike on your floorpans brush as much of the loose rust as possible and apply rust treatment then get a fiberglass kit for about $20 and follow directions cutting cloth be enough to cover holes and mix enough resin and hardener to cover then move on to next hole. You will be impressed how easy it actually is. Good luck Joe
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Sounds like a good cheap solution for a temporary fix.=P~ I may consider doing just that. Hmm
 
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