if you have enough of the right tire on a well prepped track, that is your traction bar...…… just say'n.
The front of any leaf spring acts as a traction bar, so whether you have them or not, on a leaf spring car you do. lol
if you have enough of the right tire on a well prepped track, that is your traction bar...…… just say'n.
Just look at where the tire technology is at. These drag radials are something else, along with track prep.The front of any leaf spring acts as a traction bar, so whether you have them or not, on a leaf spring car you do. lol
Just look at where the tire technology is at. These drag radials are something else, along with track prep.
I'm just say'n, if they had my tires on their Dusters, there'd be no 10's or anything else close...… and to try to get close they'd be look'n for some sort of traction-aiding device.... LOL
(probably watch my video again and go to wrenching) …..
Just look at where the tire technology is at. These drag radials are something else, along with track prep.
I'm just say'n, if they had my tires on their Dusters, there'd be no 10's or anything else close...… and to try to get close they'd be look'n for some sort of traction-aiding device.... LOL
(probably watch my video again and go to wrenching) …..
...I wonder how many Mopar gurus back in the day ran traction bars who knew no better then?
Traction bars are for ego. If you buy them because you think you need them you have other problems. Like maybe your springs are weak or you need a place to hang your glow lights.
My Duster had no problem going 10's and lifting the wheels with the stock suspension and 4 yr old tires. This car had all its interior and the factory spare in the trunk. It also had a full exhaust and a stereo with a amp for something to listen to in the staging lanes and on the return lane.
Traction bars are for looking cool. My Duster Had an adjustable snubber. The floor brace is still perfect I use a lower control arm rubber stop on the snubber
Don't guess on your torsion bar adjustment. Do it with the rear tires off the ground and measure them using the proper method as per the manual. By the difference in the LCA pin and the ball joint make them the same. Check the front weights on the tri pod system with the rear axle on a jack in the center of the housing.
When dropping the car I may lean due to the different strength springs on the rear if they are factory performance or SS. springs. Because we are going to cut over 800 lbs. we are going with the new Calvert wheelie bar traction system. We already tried caltracs springs and bars. They did help control rear of the car moving around on the shift.
Bottom line is traction bars are not needed on a mopar unless you need a place to hang lights. Or if you think they look cool and always wanted a set for that reason.
Buy a Direct connection chassis manual.
This is all factory tweeked suspension. You can hear it is through the mufflers and the tips reflection can be seen in the bumper
Ironically this is the way that I've time to my car's for the most part. When I back off after initial timing everything seems to start correct and run correct. I am aware of amounts of advance that can be gotten in different ways the seems to fall in for me. Again the end game...If you install some bars and the car improves, that's the end game. End of story, regardless of what's been written over the years.
The same engineering group that said to time an engine using total timing and let initial fall where it may... that's real good advice... NOT!!!!
Times change and people will do unorthodox things and approaches to attain a goal. Think outside the box.
This is a picture of the best ones you could buy back in the day, Fully adjustable. The bars that just rap the springs are wanna-bees. These have the J bolts Its been a long time since I saw a set of these in person. I wouldn't chop these up they are probably collectible.
The trans slipped going into high gear you can hear it on this run ..
In the vidio is your transmission slipping or the converter in hi gear?
This is the period look from my day. Just think of pulling up next to a car like this at a light in the late 70's. We all had some wild cars back in those days. I was always getting pulled over for slicks and loud Exhaust.Not that it matters if someone is just going for the period look.
Good springs and tires are more important!
This is the period look from my day. Just think of pulling up next to a car like this at a light in the late 70's. We all had some wild cars back in those days. I was always getting pulled over for slicks and loud Exhaust.
I'd always go back in time when I got in this car. This was a true period correct Duster. I raised it from birth And now its gone.
In pic number 5 of the cal track wheele bars, that mount on the axle does not wrap around the tube?
I can say from experience that is a great way to destroy a axle housing.
I can post pics of a housing torn to bits by that same type af attachment. The one I destroyed was done with a big slick and maybe 300HP. It literally tore the axle tube, let the pinion swing up, sheared the pinion off and let the drive shaft into my personnel space. (I was very lucky to not get hurt)
I would get some tube that fits over the housing, cut it in half and fully weld it to the housing. Then weld your mounts to that.
Finally! The threads headed back on track about looks and function LOLHave them on my dart more for the look but man it hooks up now!
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