Universal Traction Bars install on a Duster....

-
318willrun said:
if you have enough of the right tire on a well prepped track, that is your traction bar...…… just say'n.
Click to expand...

The front of any leaf spring acts as a traction bar, so whether you have them or not, on a leaf spring car you do. lol
 
RustyRatRod said:
The front of any leaf spring acts as a traction bar, so whether you have them or not, on a leaf spring car you do. lol
Click to expand...
Just look at where the tire technology is at. These drag radials are something else, along with track prep.

I'm just say'n, if they had my tires on their Dusters, there'd be no 10's or anything else close...… and to try to get close they'd be look'n for some sort of traction-aiding device.... LOL
(probably watch my video again and go to wrenching) ….. :D
 
318willrun said:
Just look at where the tire technology is at. These drag radials are something else, along with track prep.

I'm just say'n, if they had my tires on their Dusters, there'd be no 10's or anything else close...… and to try to get close they'd be look'n for some sort of traction-aiding device.... LOL
(probably watch my video again and go to wrenching) ….. :D
Click to expand...

It is what it is. You do what works on your car and so does everybody else. I like the look of traction bars and they can and do work in the right circumstances.
 
318willrun said:
Just look at where the tire technology is at. These drag radials are something else, along with track prep.

I'm just say'n, if they had my tires on their Dusters, there'd be no 10's or anything else close...… and to try to get close they'd be look'n for some sort of traction-aiding device.... LOL
(probably watch my video again and go to wrenching) ….. :D
Click to expand...

I had a snubber on every mopar I owned until I bought my Calverts. The video above was with 002 003 springs and a snubber. The tires were 4 to 5 year old DOT tires. The car weighed 3650 with driver.

But you are correct about track prep on the street the car was a hand full.
I bought a 69 Coronet R/T 4sp Dana in 1973. It had Lakewood bars with adjustable J bolts to load the spring.
I torched them right off. I already had a 69 RT without them both cars were dana 410 trac-pack cars. I felt the difference and preferred no bars. The bars made the car ride like a brick. Every car I buy with them on now I put the rectangle bar on the steel pile for fab work. I didn't know you all would even think of buying them.

Here is the traction system we are going to use on our new lighter car. The wheelie bar triangulation forces the tires into the street. We want to keep the car leaf springs with a 29 x 10.5 small tire class. We'll see how it works

Caltracs Wheelie Bars
 
RustyRatRod said:
...I wonder how many Mopar gurus back in the day ran traction bars who knew no better then?
Click to expand...

Lol, I know someone:steering:….


upload_2019-2-10_13-49-38.png
 
Speedthrills- you wrote that clamping the spring in the front helps with traction, and the traction bars have a clamp in the front. I would imagine that would create traction?
 
If you install some bars and the car improves, that's the end game. End of story, regardless of what's been written over the years.

The same engineering group that said to time an engine using total timing and let initial fall where it may... that's real good advice... NOT!!!!

Times change and people will do unorthodox things and approaches to attain a goal. Think outside the box.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
Traction bars are for ego. If you buy them because you think you need them you have other problems. Like maybe your springs are weak or you need a place to hang your glow lights.

My Duster had no problem going 10's and lifting the wheels with the stock suspension and 4 yr old tires. This car had all its interior and the factory spare in the trunk. It also had a full exhaust and a stereo with a amp for something to listen to in the staging lanes and on the return lane.

Traction bars are for looking cool. My Duster Had an adjustable snubber. The floor brace is still perfect I use a lower control arm rubber stop on the snubber

Don't guess on your torsion bar adjustment. Do it with the rear tires off the ground and measure them using the proper method as per the manual. By the difference in the LCA pin and the ball joint make them the same. Check the front weights on the tri pod system with the rear axle on a jack in the center of the housing.

When dropping the car I may lean due to the different strength springs on the rear if they are factory performance or SS. springs. Because we are going to cut over 800 lbs. we are going with the new Calvert wheelie bar traction system. We already tried caltracs springs and bars. They did help control rear of the car moving around on the shift.

Bottom line is traction bars are not needed on a mopar unless you need a place to hang lights. Or if you think they look cool and always wanted a set for that reason.

Buy a Direct connection chassis manual.

This is all factory tweeked suspension. You can hear it is through the mufflers and the tips reflection can be seen in the bumper

Click to expand...

.
In the vidio is your transmission slipping or the converter in hi gear?
 
crackedback said:
If you install some bars and the car improves, that's the end game. End of story, regardless of what's been written over the years.

The same engineering group that said to time an engine using total timing and let initial fall where it may... that's real good advice... NOT!!!!

Times change and people will do unorthodox things and approaches to attain a goal. Think outside the box.
Click to expand...
Ironically this is the way that I've time to my car's for the most part. When I back off after initial timing everything seems to start correct and run correct. I am aware of amounts of advance that can be gotten in different ways the seems to fall in for me. Again the end game...
 
When I was in highschool, I bought and used a pair of cheapie lakewood traction bars on my Duster. I only used them because I was a poor highschool kid and I got them for cheap at a garage sale. To mine and my dad's amazement, they worked very well with my mismatched combo. Obviously they're not ideal, but they worked for me at the time. Personally, I hated the way they looked, and still do.

Race track.JPG
 
Daves69 said:
Lol, I know someone:steering:….


View attachment 1715287668
Click to expand...
This is a picture of the best ones you could buy back in the day, Fully adjustable. The bars that just rap the springs are wanna-bees. These have the J bolts Its been a long time since I saw a set of these in person. I wouldn't chop these up they are probably collectible.
 
Not that it matters if someone is just going for the period look.

Good springs and tires are more important!
 
1969383S said:
Not that it matters if someone is just going for the period look.

Good springs and tires are more important!
Click to expand...
This is the period look from my day. Just think of pulling up next to a car like this at a light in the late 70's. We all had some wild cars back in those days. I was always getting pulled over for slicks and loud Exhaust.

I'd always go back in time when I got in this car. This was a true period correct Duster. I raised it from birth And now its gone.

 
Oldmanmopar said:
This is the period look from my day. Just think of pulling up next to a car like this at a light in the late 70's. We all had some wild cars back in those days. I was always getting pulled over for slicks and loud Exhaust.

I'd always go back in time when I got in this car. This was a true period correct Duster. I raised it from birth And now its gone.

Click to expand...



That car has always excited me.RIP!

Technology changes all the time. Mine was never what that beast was but fun none the less. Better pieces make it even more enjoyable today and easier.
 
In pic number 5 of the cal track wheele bars, that mount on the axle does not wrap around the tube?

I can say from experience that is a great way to destroy a axle housing.

I can post pics of a housing torn to bits by that same type af attachment. The one I destroyed was done with a big slick and maybe 300HP. It literally tore the axle tube, let the pinion swing up, sheared the pinion off and let the drive shaft into my personnel space. (I was very lucky to not get hurt)

I would get some tube that fits over the housing, cut it in half and fully weld it to the housing. Then weld your mounts to that.
 
Cope said:
In pic number 5 of the cal track wheele bars, that mount on the axle does not wrap around the tube?

I can say from experience that is a great way to destroy a axle housing.

I can post pics of a housing torn to bits by that same type af attachment. The one I destroyed was done with a big slick and maybe 300HP. It literally tore the axle tube, let the pinion swing up, sheared the pinion off and let the drive shaft into my personnel space. (I was very lucky to not get hurt)

I would get some tube that fits over the housing, cut it in half and fully weld it to the housing. Then weld your mounts to that.
Click to expand...

Caltracs Wheelie Bars


These bars are used in conjunction with leafs and Caltrac bars. The suspension stops the housing from rapping not the wheelie bars. The wheelie bars pull down on the housing that is all . The fulcrum point is the wheel that comes up against the floor. The leaf spring pads are welded to the housing the same way.

Now I can see if the housing is thin like the old 9 inch fords the bracket could pull a hole in the housing. We will use a Moser fabricated housing. If my son welds it it won't come off.

He's the foreman at a shop where he welds and builds the New York, New Jersey and Pennsylvania State plow trucks. He mounts the beds. wing plows and salt/Chemical tanks on all the new trucks. There are over 80 new Macks sitting there for the new order. If he says it will hold I trust him.
 
Just did not want to go that way. Car is defiantly old man 70's look. Till it starts that is!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top