haven’t. should i get one? seems useful.Have you checked the vacuum with a gauge?
haven’t. should i get one? seems useful.Have you checked the vacuum with a gauge?
yes. 1000% yes.haven’t. should i get one? seems useful.
I at the moment, have a 1945 which is pretty crusty and fubar looking, a 6145 (no difference after rebuilding) on the car, and a 1920 that I can’t get fuel flow after rebuilding. I also have no idea what throttle linkage I need for it.it sounds like you're chasing a massive vacuum leak, and you're fighting a battle on two fronts with separate janky/unknown carbs.
the one with the borked screw might be a lost cause, the other "NOS" one likely needs a rebuild. or you may find yourself needing to source yet another carb that's known to be in good proper working order.
establish some basics first: like checking the timing, confirming the mark on the balancer corresponds with TDC, making sure the plug wires are all in the correct order, the manifold is tight, you have the right base gasket for the carb, all the hoses are routed to the correct ports or blocked off, you have fuel flow both at idle and at speed, you have free and unrestricted air flow, you have full throttle, the accelerator has a pumpshot, you don't have a loose wire or incorrectly wired components in the ignition system. your float bowl vent isn't blocked off. and so on and so forth.
it's a long and tedious process, but all of these things can add up. it's death by 1000 cuts, a little here, a little there and you have something that's undriveable.
confirm the basics. establish a baseline. then work the tree from there.
jacraest said:I at the moment, have a 1945 which is pretty crusty and fubar looking, a 6145 (no difference after rebuilding) on the car, and a 1920 that I can’t get fuel flow after rebuilding. I also have no idea what throttle linkage I need for it.
Do you think the weird exhaust manifold I have could be playing any sort of role? It’s closed but I wonder.
Also, the intake flange gasket just has the “rough cut” thick looking one, and a thinner one. Am I supposed to use both, or just one? The car just has the thicker one on it.
pictures. pictures. pictures. these cars are 50+ years old, who knows what's been changed.
if you can't get fuel, check/adjust/re-set your float level.
as to the exhaust manifold, have you checked the operation of the heat riser flap (aka the butterfly in there). make sure it's not froze up and restricting flow.
one gasket only. likely the "rough cut" thicker looking one is the one you want. but bear in mind certain carbs have specific base gaskets and you could be inducing an airleak by mixing and matching pieces around.
That’s my problem, I’m not a good doc lol. I haven’t pulled the gas tank. I daily drive it. Some good news!I would go back to AJs post #22 I believe it was and follow thru.
Have you ever pulled the gas tank and check for rust/trash/dead bugs and the pick up tube with sock filter? First thing I do with any project. And the line from tank to fuel pump.
Metal fuel filters are safer but the plastic ones let you see the gas level in there.
As said before, choke closed more and it speeds up mans it wants a richer mixture.
Coming behind any one can be a cluster**** that has "tied" to work on an old car.
Like you just said, you can have issues with electrical inc. distributor. Thats another ball game..
Working on old cars that run like c*** is like needing a GOOD doctor that can diagnose whats is wrong with you! If he wants to just start cutting off your parts and pieces, you need a better doc!
Yeah it’s a later engine. Blue block and 5 freeze plugs. I know the pan I need, just don’t have it. It’s the pan without a number stamped on it. Bulge in the middle. Don’t know where to find it either. There’s a guy near me selling the oil pan I need, I can only hope he actually has it.is the engine original to the car or is it from a later date, thus explaining the pan situation?
i believe that the early body takes a unique pan. @MidnightSwinger or @RustyRatRod would be able to confirm
Does this look right to you?Also, the early a body pans are not the only pans with no number and they all pretty much have the sump in the center, except the truck, so be very careful when looking for one, because there's only one that will fit.
I cannot tell 100%, but I don't think so, no. Maybe if you could rotate 90 degrees clockwise and get a picture from that side I can be sure.
Oh ****. I got no idea. Didn’t even think of that. Maybe? I’d need a reference. I’m guessing the insulator is a rubber piece?a follow up question: does it have to correct motor mounts to keep it off the frame? and are the insulators in good shape?
it'd be terrible to get a new pan in there only for the same fate to befall it.
(i know this doesn't help you with sourcing a new one)
Guy never responded.I cannot tell 100%, but I don't think so, no. Maybe if you could rotate 90 degrees clockwise and get a picture from that side I can be sure.
It's your car. Rig it up however you want to, but it's the wrong pan and that's the whole issue. I've been through this a long time ago and the sumps are not the same, front or back. I have three early A pans including the one on Vixen, the one on her original engine sitting on the floor and the one for the new engine I have going together. Trust me. They're different. There is ONE other pan that CAN work, and does work in everything else with no modifications (except trucks) but, you guessed it, requires a "little" massaging rot eht early A, but those pans are just as hard to find. WHY any company will not make one is beyond me, because they would sell. ALL they'd need to make is TWO pans. Make one to fit all the car chassis and one for the trucks and that's it, but they won't do it.Guy never responded.
Another issue - the oil pan is rubbing on the center link. The back section of the oil pan looks the same between it and the earlier A body oil pans. Am I able to modify and dent it in? The pan's getting welded atm. The motor mounts look fine, not compacted - then again I have no frame of reference for how thick they should be though they are OEM. Bushings are all completely shot. I've read that shimming could help - but wouldn't replacing the bushings just make things worse (like the linkage sitting up higher?) What do you guys think?
EDIT: so as far as I can see, my options are (after replacing shot bushings and tie rod end boots)
1. shim motor mounts
2. shim steering linkage idler arms
I do not and let me just tell you, I look constantly. On here, ebay, marketplace......Do you know anyone that has early A body pans for sale? If not I'll make a thread in wanted or look in for sale.