I'm running atf in mine right now, seems to shift smooth but it doesn't like to shift down into 1st gear unless I'm damn near stopped. Is that normal for an 833?
I think I'm going to call smith brothers Monday morning, I keep playing with the adjuster hand changing the length of my length checker, and I think 7.125 looks the best geometry wise, I may jack with it some more tomorrow.
My valves are stock length, I marked the valve tip and compressed the rocker and spring and the rockers are pushing dang near the center of the valve tip
Sorry I for got to say, its a hydraulic flat tappet. I'm using a comp cams adjustable lenth checker ball and cup style and subtracting the cup depth, and I come up with 7.125.
So I'm measuring for pushrods, I have j heads milled .030 and .025 thick head gaskets, I am also running factory ductile iron adjustable rockers. I have 2-3 threads showing on the adjuster under the rocker (pushrod side) and I'm coming up with 7.125 long pushrods, does that sound anywhere near...
I acquired a good running 5.9 I would like to know what kind of HP guys are getting out of these, street/strip use 4sp 4.10 duster. I would like to upgrade the heads cam, it will be carbed, headers, street manners not a big concern. Is 500 possible using the stock lowerend?
Thanks, Ya I will order some custom comp push rods when I get it all measured and mocked up. Approximately how far down should the adjusters be for my starting point?
First off, Happy thanksgiving everyone!! Ok, I aquired a set of factory ductile adjustable rockers. They are not banana grooved, is that ok? Also which way do the oil holes on the shafts face? Going on a 340 with .030 milled heads thin gaskets and an xe284 comp cam with comp lifters.
I am running the same cam in my new build, 340 around 9.8 to 1, home ported J's, Airgap, 750dp Holley, 4spd, has an awesome sounding idle and runs pretty damn hard, I love it!!
the centerforce bolted right in place like a factory style, it was painless, the pedal is very nice not to stiff at all, my wife even said it was easy to push.:burnout:
As of right now I have 3.23, 25.5 tall tire, not sure or RPM yet I haven't gotten my tach installed yet. Ask any questions you want, I will try to help/answer:burnout:
I used all factory OEM parts except for the centeforce clutch. It was a very easy swap if you have alll the correct stuff. I also have some leftover pieces and parts that may help you get started.
need to figure out clutch switch wiring and reverse light wiring. Do I just need to use the original wiring that went to the automatic neutral safety switch and split it to run to the clutch switch and reverse switch? Or does someone sell a different harness?