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I believe that there is one spot on the splined shaft where the coupler slides down and allows the pin to go all the way in the hole!!

I would look up member "vntned", he lowered hi Dart using all over the counter parts and no welding required! I was saving his thread before the software change, he had the entire parts list on there! I'll see if I can find it!!

I voted to restore it, simply for the experience of restoring it! Heck, if you do a good enough job, I got a bunch, you can make money off of me restoring mine!!! :-)

...and I know for a fact that the A and B body steering wheels are the same!!! I say go for it!!

I had a 68-9 three spoke woodgrain wheel that I got from a 69 Cuda that I restored and put on Nellas 67 Cuda for awhile! Fit right on....I'd say they are the same!!

Oops, you're right killer!! My bad!!

The outside diameter appears to be 2 3/8", and the inside diameter of the eye is about 1 7/8"!

The new bolts are shaved all along the full length and are highly suspect, I would use some OE replacements!!

Steer and Gear!!

I'm not seeing anything out of the ordinary!!!

Across the board, 66 Cuda and Valiant are exactly the same geometrically, meaning that all chassis and driveline components are interchangeable! You can even swap between the 2 body wise, as all of the front sheet metal, bumpers, taillight housings and such are all the same! Only the final trim...

You can double nut that stud and back it out using the inside nut! Of course water will come pouring out if it's the outside stud, as they go into the water jackets!! Don't panic, it's typical!!

Better pre-spray those adjuster bolts with some sauce too!!

I recently installed a set of Mopar XHD springs on a friends 66 Signet, they are just a little over "stock" ride height, just about perfect! Got em from Mancini for $237, Eaton wanted north of $450 for a set! Maybe check shipping from Mancini and see what you get!!

Did you change the UCA adjusting bolts and use the new style bolt that has the flatted area completely down the length of the bolt instead of the OE bolts that are fully round and just flatted at the end?? Those new bolts are impossible to tighten to my satisfaction, and my car had a steering...

I've found that when push a car with no center link, or gear box or the like, that it will track backwards much better than forwards! Not great for going on to a truck, but rolling off and pushing it around it works pretty good. It's easier to steer also, kinda like a hilo!!

Yes to these!!!

I'm sure those don't have the flatted and knurled pads on the upper radius to keep them from crushing the tube, but an option for sure!!

I bought a set of correct 3" U bolts for off ebay for $38, a great deal after price shopping them!

I did sell it, to a member here who met me at the Nats to pick it up!! Funny thing is, now I have a 65-7 B body 8 3/4", complete, that I just pulled from under a Cuda I just got!! Keep the road trip plans on and come get this thing!!!! ��

First thing I would do is get the rear end in, then measure from the face of the drum back to the spring and minus an inch to set your backspacing! Then I would measure from the face of the drum to the wheel lip and minus an inch there also! Add the backspace number to the front offset and that...

Nope, those are 4"!! They are not redrilled, and they still have the 2 piece hub!! I think the member who is selling the caliper bolts and such is our own hemi71x, who has already posted here!! I would hit him up for anything you may need!!

Well, for one thing, you will need the disc brake lower ball joints! I also don't see the disc brake distribution block, you will need a disc brake dual res master cylinder, a set of disc brake lines, and on my 66 there is a second front to rear block that mounts about a foot back from the main...

You don't need a 4 link for your intended purpose, heck, you probably don't need super stock springs! Most racers I know don't have a 4 link and do just fine without them! Spend your money wisely grasshopper, don't buy on someone else's recommendation, build your car for what you want to do...

They have a built in shoulder that is unique to their application!

Well, now may be the time to check the canceling cam to make sure that it's not broken, and at least grease the shaft bearing!!

If you're running polyurethane replacement bushings, the outer sleeve does not have to come out!!

Please do!!! :-)

Yep, those are the blue ones alright!!!! :-)

I think all of the steering box bolts are the same! I have a few from a 66 car if you need them, and also an extra manual gearbox from an early A if needed! Is yours manual or power?? Geof