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Interesting that the new Rotella formula shows to have more zinc than the old. I'm thinking he has them switched up.

It's only bad if the motor burns oil.

If you can find one that won't cost an arm and a leg, go for it. Having a 340 would be really cool but you can really pay a premium since they're rare and valuable. In terms of performance, though, a 360 will do just about anything the 340 can. The bores are about the same 4.00" (360) vs...

Take a look at Comp's 20-746-9, sounds like it would meet your criteria. It's the cam I'm running in my magnum and it's very daily drivable with a mild slightly choppy idle and good overall manners. Specs are 216/224, .506/.506, 114. As for a coverter, I personally run a 9.5" 3400 but it did...

IMO not needed, but it's not exactly a big investment to grab a bottle of break-in additive to throw in there for extra insurance.

Gotcha, I had to look that up and you are correct. I was basing my info on experience with NGK plugs (my preference) and they list the FR4 plug for your P/U and the ZFR6F-11 plug for the Durango, which is a colder plug.

Even though they're the same engine, the early magnums spec'd a hotter plug (2 steps hotter). I don't know if that will cause a problem but why not just switch them out?

The one I used on my motor was worse than that. I just cleaned it real well, roughed it up (including drilling tiny holes for anchor points), and used JB Weld. After it dried all it took was a couple minutes with a file and it was good to go. I pulled it off last year (after 4 years and ~10k...

I use stock replacement rubber engine/trans mounts with a torque strap. The drivers side is locked down but the other mounts still absorb enough vibration to make it only slightly more noticeable. Different car but I do use abody style mounts.

A buddy is running .539/.539 lift in a stock shortblock 5.9 magnum. Stock heads are ported and valve guides are cut but no ptv issues. Not stock rockers though.

If you can't get into a tight spot to tap in a new steel or brass freeze plug you can always install some of those rubber freeze plugs. I've installed a few over the years and none of them have gone bad or fallen out, but I would consider it a temporary solution. You can pick them up at just...

The oil doesn't matter, just use what you've been using (as long as it's not synthetic). None of today's mainstream oils have the right amount of anti-wear properties for a cam break-in anyway, so that's where the break-in additive comes in. The Lucas break-in additive is a decent one and is...

18 initial/34 total should be a pretty safe starting point. That's what mine set at and it runs on 87 octane, so if you're running 91/93 fuel there should be some room to play around with it. Personally, I found very little gain running 93 n/a, even after adding timing and tweeking the fuel...

I'm running Autozone store brand bearings and rings in my motor. They may be rebranded big name stuff, I don't know, but I'm pushing 15k miles on the motor with hundreds of track passes. Still going strong.

Yup, I agree. Would be the first thing I would check.

Is vacuum advance hooked up? If so it needs to be disconnected before timing the motor. Have you checked the light on another engine you know is timed correctly? What does it look like if you put a vacuum gauge on it? Maybe the harmonic balancer has spun causing a false reading.

A little off topic, but you mentioned that you're plannng to run the NOS Powershot kit? That kit is factory calibrated to run a 125 shot and is not adjustable. If you want to be able to run a 100 or 150 shot you need the Super Powershot kit that has the adjustable jets. Edit: LOL, just...

If you're a total newb then this is where you need to start. Step by step instruction with great photos. How to Rebuild the Small-Block Mopar: William Burt: 9781613250587: Amazon.com: Books

Bullet Racing Cams Http://www.bulletcams.com

Before you go tearing stuff apart and throwing money at it, try taking some timing out of it first. A couple degrees off the top might be the easy fix you need. Make note of your current initial and total timing, then go from there.

They talked about this very thing on Musclecar this weekend. Maybe this can help you out. http://www.powerblocktv.com/episodes/MC2013-13/build-by-request-part-1

I'd leave the heads on unless you plan on working them. You wouldn't "feel" any gain with the thin gaskets anyway, but you could set yourself up for possible leaks and the headache of having to pull it all apart again.

For a grand you would be much happier to mod what you've got over doing a magnum swap. Normally I'm on the magnum band wagon but I honestly think you'd be better off just doing a simple cam swap (valvesprings also) in your 318, Comp xe268 or similar, and calling it good as far as engine mods...

I use the zip tie method. Here's a little writeup on it if you don't know what I'm talking about. http://mechdb.com/index.php/Zip_tie_plug_wire_looms Of you want more info you can also google "zip tie spark plug wires" and see tons of examples. It's very common.

I'm currently running a Holley 650dp on my magnum and would personally take it over the Edelbrock carb any day.

...you go, the tougher the competition, so unless you want to go out 1st round every time you need to first learn how to race. Don't be a duck, make the other guy go "d*mn, I've got to be on my game, this kid is tough". Beating the other guy in the other lane is much more fun than just going fast.

Wrap a strap wrench around the balancer, then stick a piece of pipe on the end of the wrench to wedge against the ground.

Basic yet effective. Professional Products Crosswind intake http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pfs-55026?seid=srese1&gclid=CKHc99jL0LgCFbDm7Aod4GkAUw Edelbrock Performer 1406 carb http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-9906?seid=srese1&gclid=COP5srbL0LgCFS1p7AodQxsALw

448hp 434tq http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/hrdp_0804_small_block_mopar_engine/viewall.html

I'm talking about running it carb'd, guess I should have made that more clear. You can run that same 650 cfm Holley you've already got. You just need to either buy a magnum specific carb intake, or drill the magnum heads for the LA intake you already have. As for the ignition side, use what...