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Download one of the factory manuals and it will have a section on rebuilding alternators. I rebuild about 2 dozen alternators a year. Half for airplanes and half for cars. I've bought a bunch of alternators from the Pull-A-Part and stripped them for parts, mainly the diodes. The airplane...

I use Barkeepers friend. you can get it at Home Depot, Lowes,or Walmart. Clean it with that, wash with dish detergent, then rinse with water, air dry and it will look like it's brand new.

Since your alternator has tested good, it is probably your regulator. Just go to your local auto parts store and get one. Don't bother with that Mopar performance one.

I've lost track of what you have done, but it still isn't right. A fully charged battery should read about 12.5 volts and a working alternator should be putting out around 13.5 volts.

If you build your own voltage regulator, instead of using a fixed 7805, use a LM317 or LM350T. They are adjustable regulators that use the same TO-220 package. The data sheets can be found on Google along with circuit designs. Only a few resistors are required for the adjustment circuit. I had...

The alternator does not have 2 sense wires. The one labeled L is for the warning light, if you connect it to power without a light in the circuit, something will smoke. If you don't want a warning light, just leave it unhooked.

The problem with using a terminal strip instead of a bus bar is, when all the terminals are "daisy chained" together, the first one in line from the power source has to carry all the current for the whole system as it passes it on down the line to be divided off at each individual terminal. That...

I know everyone can't justify owning one, but I check alternator ripple with my Uscope and an amp clamp. It makes the job fast and easy.

Molex sockets can be used in the instrument cluster connector. Part nos. 02-09-1119 for 18-22 ga. wire and 02-09-1104 for 14-20 ga. wire. They are virtually identical to the OEM sockets. The round connectors were used until the 80s in vans, the last time I needed one, I went to the Pull-A-Part...

Year One sells the original style wrap under the part no. HWRAP

The alternator is good if it puts out 15 volts when the field is connected to battery power. Replace the regulator and fix that voltage drop.

The 78 amp alternator will fit on your Duster. If you buy a 78 amp alt. make sure it has the narrow stator gap between case halves or it ain't a real 78 amp.

The windings are not polarized and can be reversed.

Don't know exactly how you wired it, but it should be wired the same as the earlier isolated field alternators.

You can get them from Mouser or DigiKey a precision wire wound one is what you need. I also have a resistor substitution box that lets you dial in the resistance you want. You can also use fixed value resistors if you are only going to test specific gauges.

A battery charger may or may not work as a power supply. Whether it works or not depends on if its rectifier is a half wave or full wave. Also battery chargers don't have voltage regulators or filter capacitors to remove the AC ripple voltage and they will have some AC voltage in their output...

Back when Mopar had a 100 amp optional alternator, there was a voltage regulator (p/n 3755850) specifically for 100 amp alts. Now that you can no longer get these regulators from a dealer and everything is one size fits all ching chang crap, how well something works is just a gamble. Unless it's...

All aviation versions of the Chrysler alternator are grounded field. All they do to convert an isolated field to a grounded field is remove an insulating washer and put the screw back in. I have seen jumper wires installed on isolated field alternators to ground a terminal, but they were all...

All Chrysler alternators have the same mounting points, the alternator you have is the last generation of Chrysler manufactured alternators before they switched to other brands. These later alternators were rated at 78 amps so you need to consider upgrading your electrical system. If you search...

That alternator is one from the 80s. The part number is probably 4091424 judging by the fact the housing has thicker fins than the older ones and a ground terminal. The upper spade terminal is not grounded, it is an isolated field alternator. Look closely and you can see the black insulating...

The 69 and earlier instrument clusters are different from 70 and up and will not interchange.

I've already identified the connector. It's not a Faston, it's an Amp Mate-n- lok. I use about a hundred of these a year, so I order them in bulk. If you are only installing one unit then the MSD8824 kit is the way to go. The reason I leave the stock connector on the MSD box and change the...

I cut the connector off the distributor and add the MSD style connector. You are installing an MSD ignition, why save the stock connector? You can get a connector kit from Summit or Jegs, part no. MSD8824. The connectors are Amp Mate-N-Lok not The Molex style like Radio Shack,Fryes, and others sell.

The Shopkey tune up spec manuals sold on the Snap On trucks listed some extreme plug gaps in the 1970s when HEI first came out, but by the 1980s there were a lot of engines with .080 gaps as the max and by the 1990s the max gap was .060, so I guess GM decided large gaps were not the way to go.

Unless you want to spend a lot of time and money with a four gas exhaust analyzer and a dyno, the only thing you can do is experiment with gap settings that give you the performance you want. Different engines want different settings, an open chamber head may not want the same gap as a closed...

Here's the real Toyota factory wiring diagram

I always test IVRs with an oscilloscope and surprisingly they put out a pretty clean square wave pulse.

I used to have one of the Miller testers, but it disappeared years ago. Now I use a resistor substitution (decade) box instead. You just flip switches until it adds up to the resistance you want. It's not limited to certain gauges and it can substitute for any sensor even mass airflow. This...

You are correct about the Fords wiring the enertia switch into the pump power wire. What I should have said was some after market fuel pumps pull more current than a stock Ford and I've never known what the max current rating is for the switch, so I wire them into the control side.

I use the enertia switch out of a 2000 and up Ford. the junkyards are full of them, just look in the trunk. Enertia switches must be wired into the control side of the relay. They are not rated to handle pump current.