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They are as accurate as your ohmeter. I actually have a gauge tester built for "all makes," is nothing more than two pots, a hi and a lo range--in one box. They have a scale, but I set them with a Fluke

WHAT GOES IN (and out) of a TS switch IN: 1...Switched brake light power. This is "hot" to the switch at all times, so anytime you press on the brake, the (usually white) wire from the brake switch to the TS switch should come alive. With the switch centered, the TS switch routes...

LOLOL!!! Well it is NOT going to work with 1156's. They are single filament, single contact bulbs. I don't even know how you got them in the sockets, as the 1157 bayonet pins are offset, the 1156's are straight across, and just for that reason

The danger of the ammeter circuit is that the entire end to end circuit/ harness/ connections AND THE meter is marginal. They mostly worked OK with smaller alternators for the expected life of these cars. The wire size was marginal, the bulkhead connector terminals were never...

Darn, man. If the headlights don't work this sounds like probably the welded splice has broken. You will have to pull the cluster to check. the welded splice is a few inches away from the ammeter black wire termination, wrapped up in the dash harness. Once you get the cluster out, you...

Not quite true. The plug wires radiate like antennas, and the coil circuit induces noise directly into the 12V wiring. Secondary interference is different, then, than primary interference. That condenser is used to help that. But it also does something else. It actually...

An annoying story from the old days In the 70's, stationed at NAS Miramar, San Diego, we had an E6 with a 64 Chev. He had taken it to Aamco Transmission, gotten raped on the price, and next time he and I were on duty, showed me the broken rotor. "How, why, etc." I told him Aamco had...

How to tell if you might be running way too much power: (In the spirit of "you might be a redneck if................")

I am getting pretty hard of hearing, but if we still had the audio systems AKA like in our old Zenith console, I would not have any problems. My current TV has two speakers about 1 1/2" X 3" that point straight down. I actually "got into" it and tapped RCA jacks into the...

OK let's start over. What this sounds like is that you HAVE A BREAK in the output or "charge" wire from the alternator to the battery So the basics of what you want to do is this: 1...Determine if the output/ charge path from the alternator to the battery is OK 2...Determine if the VR...

I often joke, remember when the TV picture was crappy, small, and snowy and the speakers were large and the audio was GREAT? Now we have big, clear great picture, and crappy, lousy, tiny speakers and I CAN'T HEAR THEM!!

Those are not critical. NAPA has generic ones. If you are not fussy about "restoration correct" you could use one out of a distributor. Better would be to gut that can, and use an electronics plastic film one. Value not critical, .02--.2 microfarad and I would use at least 200v

No no no not with MSD. If you are running a CD NOTHING and I mean NOTHING else should be connected to the coil except the two MSD box wires Not even the tach Whatever you are using for a switch to get "run" power out into the engine bay is what I'm calling "run" or "switched...

OK well what regulator do you have? If you have the once popular Mopar race regulator, you wire it like a pre 70. In other words GROUND it, the ign lead goes to switched 12V AKA key, "ignition run" and the field lead goes to either field connection on the alternator. Ground the...

Kinda sort do. l "Dakota digital"

Could be a bad capacitor (condenser) in the distributor. I do not use automotive/ OEM style caps in my outboard motors. I use plastic "electronics" plastic film. Sprague "orange drop" are good ones. Try to "get ready" to test as soon as it quits. Get a WIRE core wire to test...

For starters you need to post just what is "my car." If you do not have one, run over to MyMopar.com and download the closest year/ model service manual you can find there. You may have to accept Plymouth vs Dodge, etc. Also go to the wiring section and download the aftermarket...

See if I can simplify With engine key in the "run" position, and engine running, ONLY the IGN1 "run" terminal of the key is hot out in the engine bay. Depending on car model, this feeds the VR for the alternator, and the ballast and on to the coil BUT THAT IGN1 GOES DEAD when you...

Even so, all these race sports, pretty much across the board, are safer than they were some years back.

Just to be technical, you were not electrocuted, or you would not be typing this. You would be dead But be CAREFUL. Some modern ignition systems actually generate enough power to be lethal.

Agree. Checking spark. I like to get "right to the coil" so to say. Use some sort of actual wire to temp. replace the coil secondary wire. Rig that to some sort of test gap. Crank the thing, and if you can, use a wide test gap, 3/8 to 1/2" The thing should make nice hot blue...

Thanks! THAT DIAGRAM (and there are similar ones) is SOMEWHAT MISLEADING. At upper right where it says "start position of ignition switch" it is important to realize that they are talking about the IGN2 contact, and that it is "live" in the start position. There has been confusion...

And also, most SBs actually have a long string STAMPED into the front of the driver side block, right below the head parting line. The first ?? 2-4 figures have the CID coded right into the number, unless it was a rebuild and marked out

Are you actually using Taylor wire? Different wire, can be different resistance. "Back in the day" the "go to" universal cut-off figure for factory wires, used to be no more than 1000 ohms per foot, and I don't think I ever found any that high, unless just open. If possible, photos of...

Well and I was going to say ground the cluster, by employing a dedicated ground pigtail. Other than that, you moved something or shorted something, and damaged the IVR circuit.

Has it been converted to electronic ignition, or a better question, WHAT IS the ignition you are using, AKA bone factory stock breaker points, or "some other", or some sort of electronic, and just what is that? The IGN2 ballast bypass circuit is a great place to start as posted above...

Zero chance you should re-use that TUBE. And you should take a very jaundiced look at the rest of the tubing, as well. I recently replace all the brake tubing in my 04 GMC which otherwise is very low rust. The tubing was a mess. I would guess that GM's recent choice of...

It has been a LONG time since I've worked with any of these, and most (refrigeration, then) compressors I dealt with were small enough not to use them.......... But why cant you remount your starter in a large enough box "if needed" and then find and overload that can be mounted...

What Greg (TB) said The way I read what you are contemplating, you have the two shafts parallel WITHOUT load. You want the two parallel UNDER load. So if the trans is 5 down (sounds like a lot, I agree with Greg, TB, I'd try and raise that) then you want the pinion down maybe...

Damn. Plus and minus. He is only a year younger than I, and part of that may well be birthday month. A quick search "may" have shown that no other driver is even close to John in age, in top fuel.