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In that heat and that oil pressure Valvoline 50wt racing or VR1 50 would help a lot.

It is true that you can kill a trans with a lot of miles on it by changing the fluid. New detergents can eat older clutch materials.

Did you see this one? Death Valley is an appropriate name.

If it didn’t the producers missed their chance.

Yep, I know all this. I was pointing out the original OP question regarding the 8.25 vs 8.75.

Mine have been in there for years with no squeaks. I should also add the my original bushings were so bad I was able to pry the arms off the pins, so in this case I didn’t have to take the pins out of the K.

Sooo much simpler to use poly as mentioned, and they basically last forever. No pressing either. You also don’t have to tighten it down with load on them. You can clean the old rubber out of the bushing sleeve,pop the poly in and put your T bar socket on. You don’t even have to take the pin out...

I recently had a problem exactly like you described. Ended up being a bad pickup. That doesn’t explain both distributors doing it though.

I have Dakota Ubolts on my 8.25 diff in my Dart. They have the flat area. The diff I have is an original 73-74 Mopar 8.25 with Jeep Grand Cherokee gears and sure grip in it with the Cherokee disc brakes. The Mopar 8.25 and the Dakota 8.25 both have 3 inch tubes, as does a 8.75.

Could be worse. My Son had water running out of his outlet, onto the kitchen counter and then the floor of his apartment. Took the building owner two weeks to get around to fixing it.

I pulled my A500 from a Dakota pickup at the pick a part by myself and they wouldn’t even let me take my floor jack in. (Insurance reasons) I stacked temporary spares up until I could support the loose transmission, and then work it down to the ground gradually. They wouldn’t even help me lift...

Also don’t discount the magnetic pickup. They can cause all kinds of weird things to happen. Just because it makes a spark doesn’t mean it doing it when it’s supposed to.

This is exactly why I don’t order aftermarket stuff. I run 8 pin GM HEI from a recurved and centrifugal limited stock electronic distributor. You can get that **** anywhere.

OH GOOD LORD!!! You probably don’t torque wheel bearing nuts either. JK

Something is up. I have not once ever pulled a broken NGK out that didn’t get hit. Especially 3, and I don’t think it is the plug socket either. Not unless they are literally getting thrown down the hole. :D

I had kind of the same thing happen. I was the mechanic at a car lot and got hurt pretty badly, to where I couldn’t walk or bend. I made a deal with the owner that I wouldn’t claim workers comp if they kept paying me the normal wage if I instructed the young car wash kid on what to do and how...

Pretty much all my life if I wanted something it showed up before long. Doesn’t work with money though, I have tried. So we had a motorhome trailer, dirt bikes and such for the kids and I and we used to go for 2-5 day camping and riding. Wife used to ride but gave it up. Kids grew up, got jobs...

That clears that up. Thank you for the effort you put into this. I appreciate it.

@67Dart273 Good morning. The instructions for the Classic Auto Air system says to connect both power leads to switched ignition. The system apparently draws up to 20 amps. I want to take that load off my key switch with a relay direct to the battery and realize I probably need a continuous use...

I couldn’t even imagine living in a place like this. 101 at my place today at 5000 feet.

OMG how many times I ended up in a Roadkill type situation. Here’s one. Keeping it short, I threw the driveshaft out of my dads 58 Ford pickup on a backroad while he was at work. One cap disappeared. Only 2 tools could be found in the truck, a 5/8 short socket and a 1/2 wrench. Drove it home...

You do have heavy gauge cable from the battery negative to the block, right? Hope I’m not just asking a stupid question, but I have seen guys burn up a speedo cable by using body grounds only.

Yep, only paying members can do that.

That sounds familiar.

Yes because I thought I didn’t do it this time.

Interesting nostalgia. The body damage estimator is quite the gimmick.

It could be just a stuck solenoid, but we all know how that goes. Ah, I think Donny just made my point while I was typing.

I know it keeps the burning of the tip and cap contacts down from the HEI spark jump, but I’m pretty sure that’s not why they made it. Good question.

This is what happens when you use a Napa MO3000 rotor and don’t get your distributor cap back on exactly straight. :D The MO3000 rotor has a 030 longer tip.

Insulator