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I could tell you, but then I"d have to ki....................... Start's with "B", ends with "B", and has oooooommmmm in between

A friend of mine, later an electrical engineer, outsmarted himself with one of these. He knew the cap (condenser) in the distributor was no longer needed so he pulled it out. And of course at some point the CD unit died. He could not simply switch it over, without a cap. Some...

Biggest problem was getting a tach to operate reliably. These are the reason that my 70 440-6 RR got a Jones Motrola mechanical tach. I was second owner, and the original owner (still a friend of mine to this day) had pulled the tik tok tach out for warranty, and finally jammed a...

It might be good for one thing............before you toss it. If you decide to use a GM HEI for ignition, that is a decent heat sink, and after stripping the components, likely has a flat rear side

That is one of the numerous CD electronic ignitions from the late 60's and 70's and triggered by a breaker points distributor Delta and Tiger SST were a couple Looks like it is a Delta MarK Ten B https://selectric.org/delta/index.html

I too believe it is more microprocessor controlled "stuff" that is the issue. You say "not standed?" I have never seen wire core wires that are not stranded. Most I've seen are a quite stiff (tempered?) steel wire or perhaps tempered plated copper.

Boy that old girl has been well kept!!

You can create bootable, runnable, "live" USB sticks so you can try out and install Linux. If you are serious about learning, it is VERY helpful to have 1 or even 2 old computers/ laptops so you can no1 screw around and try stuff, and no2, have a platform with Linux that you can create...

Linux can be an effort. In my opinion, there are too many people stirring the pot. They call it "flavors." I cannot even NAME all the variations that pop up. But Ubuntu is very popular, and Mint is a related spin off from Ubuntu. Sometimes I like one, sometimes the other. It depends...

^^You can also buy nut / threaded bulkhead fittings such as in JIC/ AN and after making a clean hole in a flat spot, you could reach a finger or two through the sender hole to tighten it up. I silver brazed a tube in mine, but I hesitate to recommend that, explosion hazard. What...

You need to check it with a meter, plain and simple. It does appear to be grounded, as the slot opposite it should be for an isolated brush. This is because the rebuilders have played games for years. They sell newer versions for old and often misconfigure the brush setup, whether...

I hate windblowd. I used to know Xtra Putrid pretty fair, and barely got to know sleven. But when H ate, teHEN and whatever is now came along, I pretty much quit I have used Linux for everything I can now since XP went obsolete. I use mostly Mint and sometimes Ubuntu, and almost...

I wonder, tho, if there is "water" there in a Magnum block

Yeh if you don't have anything out of the column that is starting to sound line the TS switch When you have an integrated hazard flasher switch as yours does, that can kill the rear lights but the fronts should still work if the TS switch itself is OK. I would wiggle stuff good Here...

It might be "about done" but there is/ was one lonely piston UH out there and sometimes, she didn't look too bad. Twin turbos I hate the sound of kirby vacuums and love the sound of V12's Not long ago she made enough power to spit the prob and part of the shaft right out of the...

I don't know where all you measured those voltages you posted, AKA are they at the rear lights, or at the left kick panel connector for the rear harness, or up at the TS connector. I would start either at the TS connector or the left kick panel connector. Find those connectors on you...

ODD, I did NOT see GREAT BIG RED PRINT from "ZED EL" land in here helping with this problem!!!!

The condenser is a radio noise filter, as the IVR or regulator is INSIDE the gas gauge on a Rally dash. It goes on the +12 stud If you have not, I would eliminate the gauge wire as a possibility. Supply 12V power to the proper cluster pin, and ground, and ground the sender wire...

There are no easy answers. If you think it is the dome circuit, chase it down. Start by making certain the vehicle does not have a trunk light stuck on, underhood lamp or the glove box lamp. If you can kill it by removing fuses, look up in the service manual to find a list of items on that...

You can't. You have to find a place to host them, like YewToobe, and then link them here. The basics are you need some sort of camera, and now the options are endless, because almost any smart phone (which I do not use) can take decent videos. You upload the thing to your computer, and...

Current flow is most commonly thought of as "electron flow" so yes, neg to pos. But for explanation it is often simpler to start at the battery and work from there. The functional path, whichever current flows, LOL And the diagram does not follow, either, because they are showing...

My back gives me fits almost every day. I can no longer work on my feet for (good day) about 1 1/2--2 hrs, to (bad day) 1/2 hour. When I did the Dodge Ram 4WD conversion, I constantly had to say, "OK, let's go rest" and just go in and flop in the big chair. It is worse this year...

Find the light switch about 1/4 of the way from the top of 8-99. B, or B1 at bottom left is the headlights only power Follow L1-16BK down and left it goes right to the welded splice

The diagrams, some hints. Find the fuse panel, page 8-99, and look at the right side of the box marked "battery" the two on the buss. This is your panel hot buss, the stuff like brake lights, tail, hazard, that are always powered. Follow Q3-14R up and left. You will find the big...

I would DARN SURE check the alternator for a short!!! I am thinking either the wiring has been hacked (modified) or you made a mistake, or maybe the link somehow made brief contact as you were wiggling stuff. You look at that diagram, here's how the headlights power works Again, battery...

The fuse link should pretty much kill ALL power into the interior. That is in the main battery feed to the ammeter. You need to find out WHY One way to not burn the car down is to find an old headlamp, or stop/ tail lamp socket, and wire an 1157 or headlamp in series with the main...

No understand The main cable was likely no4, it does not hurt to upgrade the gauge, but good looking finding them in current so called parts stores. I would for SURE upgrade the battery to body ground, but you can actually do that from the block to the body. Use a Ford style "eye to...

Just remember that when you head down into the 4.1/ lower you are starting to generate heat in the differential, and higher, MUCH higher drive shaft RPM, so balance and design becomes a real issue

Guessin a roll back will be next project................

Watch especially, the second half. 'hard acell