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Oldsmobile studs. They have the 5/16 thread for the head and 3/8 for the rocker. I think we had Magnum guide plates.

I agree with Junky, the factory rockers are actually really good. I tried a set of chubby rockers and could not get the geometry correct. Lost lift due to it. If running a chubby rocker, 1.65 ratio is needed to yield the 1.6 on a Mag.

I think the finish on the head surface has a lot to do with seal. Block as well. The aluminum has almost a mirror like finish. 13.5 static is not that big of deal, depending on cam specs. Sounds like maybe a few little things adding up to the big thing.

I would think you would need the pump and alternator from the truck. Only caveat that I can think of is how the alternator would be controlled. I know you can wire the 03-08 stuff like an old square back. I tried that with a 2013ish car alternator and it did not work. Pcm controls them Waaaay...

She's a trip! Gotta love Ann....

As someone who was born in the 70s, grew up in the 80s, and graduated high school in the very early 90s, I have an appreciation for a wide variety of music. I like most all rock music, have a fondness for the Hank Sr. country and western, the 70s Outlaw country music. But especially love the...

What?!!! No recommendations for a tensioner?!!!

I want it!! Lol!

Now to find out WHY it bent the pushrod. Stuck for just quick-a-minute valve?

PM sent.

I can't speak for the 8H, but on the 545RFE, the number of detents is same as a three speed. There aren't detents for the o.d. positions. I've done a couple of trucks, a 62 and 78. The 78 utilized the factory column shift. The 62 utilized the dash mounted cable shift.

Welcome to the madness! You don't have to use the 73 up K member. Conversion mounts are available for the 67-72 K. However, the brakes and big ball joints are an advantage on the 73 up cars. Holley has mounts that move the engine ahead in order for the SRV motor on the back of the intake...

I like his cover of Africa by Totto.

I'm in love...... :lol:

:eek:

Appreciate the replies. I finally found a pic of a restored M code engine and i can see the lower valve cover corners using the stud/nut combo. I know that the big blocks in general used the same hardware. I was wondering about the markings in particular. This vehicle isn't going to be an OEM...

I did a quick search and didn't find my answers. First off, what would be the intake manifold bolts? Just like a typical 440 of same vintage, but, did they all have the "TR" marking? Second, the valve cover bolts. I know in some years they used a short stud with a nut in the lower corners...

Getting over flooding here in NW Iowa. Stay safe!!!!

Same deal here. Very sad.

Traumatic Brain Injury is no joke. Have had experience with this situation where a family member was killed and the spouse suffered TBI. They were on a golf cart, not an 11,000 hp funny car........

Never like to hear this. May God lay his healing hand over the family. May he rest in peace.

I have no experience with the coils you mention. I have seen dyno numbers comparing stock to MSD. IIRC, it was literally a horse apiece. The number going to MSD. The stock coils are really pretty decent.

Correct. The Hemi 6 only works with the 32 tooth wheel found in the 03-08 5.7 and all 6.1.

I did a 5.7 awhile back. Put ARP bolts in the bottom end. Did not change crank or rod run out. But, as Garret pointed out, if you plan to power add or boost, put a drop in/no balance required piston/rod set now while it's apart. On the head bolts, they are indeed torque to angle. But my...

No thank you. Only pushrods for me. :lol:

I believe the 545 uses an input and an output sensor for vehicle speed.

PM sent.

I caught that. I would expect the Dart to be heavier. Stronger/thicker in places that need it. Going back to the LA small block realm, the R blocks and Ritter blocks are heavier than a standard block. For very good reason. I looked at that block at PRI two years ago. Impressive, impressive price...