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Man, you would be able to hear an echo if you spoke around those rear wheels! Excellent!

I would use the aggressive pads, for sure. When I hit the brakes, I want to STOP!!!

Nah, I think it was the chrome alternator that fixed the problem. The electrical system had to stand up and salute!!!

Yeah, the flowkooler pumps are what I use. Just need to ensure the thermostat is REALLY a high flow unit, like the one that Stewart Components sells. They have the big windows, unlike other "high flow" stats that are not really...

The overrunning clutch prevents it from turning the other way. Perfectly normal!

I've used WD-40 for some things, but also heard it gets sticky after awhile (on door lock cylinders). Would not think it is good to use on parts that won't be in use for quite some time.

Ignition switch or wiring going through the bulkhead

Hey, don't get me started on TCI either... ugh.

Yeah, I still buy Fairbanks shift kits from Superior. I've used both B&M as well as TransGo and found the Fairbanks to be "superior". Just my opinion, but the kits are less expensive than the other two and they WORK!

Exactly. Been there, done that. Options today provide for a stroked 360 (I used one from Blueprint Engines). He will be so much happier with that swap instead of trying to shoehorn in a BB, much less an RB.

@Bewy You could reset the float level. If the needle & seat are in good shape that should take care of the problem. Bewy can help with this also, as he is an Edelbrock carb guy!

Tried to PM you but your inbox is full. Would you please provide an update on how your PI setup is working after a few years of use? I have a 440 with Trickflow 240 heads and cast aluminum valve covers and am wondering if I would have any fitment issues. Any info you can provide would be...

With that much shaved off of the heads, wouldn't you also need to shave the intake side of the head for the angles to match? Maybe that was already done.

Congratulations!

That SP2P manifold has really small runners so an excellent match to your engine. I ran that same manifold on my 70 Duster 318 back in the 80's with a 600 Holley, fresh valve job, and mild Comp 252 cam. The car had a 904 trans w/2.76 rear gearing. Was an excellent daily driver. Driving from San...

Wear a raincoat, galoshes, and a sailor's hat cause you'll be slinging water everywhere! If you wear glasses get windshield wipers for them too!!!

I used poly mounts like above but there was too much vibration and made the dash rattle. Went back to stock style rubber and was much better. To each their own.

I hope it comes to pass

Saw a video recently, may have already been mentioned, that showed many of the lifter issues were two-fold. One was the lifter crown was insufficient or missing which caused the lifter to not rotate. The other issue, to a lesser degree, was the cam lobe did not have the correct taper. The video...

Best to use stainless steel wire that won't rust and fall apart.

Possibly because the ones who designed them saw it as necessary?

I put the Dougs on my 70 Duster 408/727 with floor shifter and they fit better than any header I've ever had. Only issue I had was when I upgraded the torsion bars from OE to 1.03. Had to clearance the headers to keep them from rubbing. Other than that a great fit.

When I bought my Dana 60 rear ends from Dr Diff (he gets them from Strange) both of them came with the Ford additive. Stinks to high heaven but no issues. Also used the recommended 85w/140 Castrol diff lube.

Should put this in the parts for sale classified section and not in the forums.

I found a '74 Valiant in similar condition so pulled the engine and had it rebuilt. I neglected to have the gas tank boiled out and when I put fresh fuel in there it loosened all the junk and caused issues with the valves. Bent some pushrods doing it. The machine shop took the head back and...

If a little rust on the headers is the only problem we're facing, then we have a very sweet car!

I use American Modern. They asked what I paid for the car and what I did to it. I filled out a document showing all the mods made and the cost of each. I then sent in pictures to validate my position. They did not flinch at my estimated value.

If the engine is 100% stock you probably have a nylon style timing gear. Those gears get very brittle over time and will cause problems. It would be worth replacing your timing set if you do nothing else.

Nah, you're not cheap, man. You're thrifty... which is what you want. No need to spend unnecessary $$ when doin' it right the first time!!

I watched a few minutes of it. You did not miss anything.