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I ran 7.400 LS (comp brand) pushrods in my 360 without issue (5/16", 080 wall) on a solid flat tappet cam with 1.6:1 rockers, .384" lobe, (edit: adding that they were the Howard's solid lifters with EDM hole) & the comp 26915 beehive springs set up at about 305 lb open load...worked okay for me...

Glad no people were harmed in the making of this post…sorry to see that the structural integrity of the Valiant was on test.

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It’s telling you it wants that bigger cam you have:poke:

As a guy on here says, McZackly!!! (I don’t remember how you spell it though)

Get it in there!!! The right converter will make it work great :steering:

It’s not compensatory, I swear!!!

Echoing the sentiment, really enjoyed the thread and am still impressed by what you accomplished with the car. Enjoy what’s next!

Don't suppose you have the LSA (lobe separation angle) to go with it? I ask because my cam (motor not together yet) is pretty close on duration and lobe lift. Thanks! Otherwise, previous owner probably played around with lash settings looking for quicker or quieter (or just did it because they...

Crap! Hope the damage is minimal, and glad you caught it before it got any worse!

We’re trying too man, there’s still time!

Put the hat on top of your head and use the stickers around the edge to stick it to your head

:rofl:

They’re the only kind I have (no need to ask my wife)

Too hot, wait till morning

Why you tearing into it? Or are these old pics?

Here’s the longer version, maybe they can swap it in the order: Proform Parts 67557 Proform Pushrod Length Checkers | Summit Racing

Flat out, I don’t know enough about big blocks to provide enough assistance other than to know cup vs ball and that they have a longer distance from lifter to rocker than small blocks. Mancini shows a set of pushrods at just over 9”, which would mean the length checker you ordered won’t work...

The factory stamped rockers will want a ball end, not the cup end that’s on the measuring tool you bought. Aluminum rockers will likely use the cup end (but not always)…maybe use that as your motivation to get those rockers you want;). Also, I don’t know big block typical length, but that...

Bummer. Rest up for your knee replacements and hit it hard next year :steering:

The engine isn’t together yet, so I can’t speak from experience at this time, but I had mine turned down to 2.100 as well. Being a worry wort, I had it re-nitrited. My reasoning was to run the lighter weight Eagle (Chevy) rods, with the smaller diameter 927 wrist pins to reduce stresses due to...

I don’t know car count, but hopefully E7 brings home some gas money. Well done!!!

Uggh :BangHead:

Dang, sorry to hear that:( Regarding voltage, put key in on position and jump across the starter relay to see if it fires. This can eliminate the voltage drop across the key circuit (installed a push button on mine for this reason…because I was too lazy to chase down the real problem)

Hope that’s it!!!

Heck ya, keep up the progress!!! Body work on mine is slow and tedious, but a little here and there is better than nothing!

But, you could have put it back 180 out since the shaft key index slot is universal. In the top of the oil pump drive shaft that is.

Rotor tab to cap gap? Sometimes you bend it down when pulling the rotor off the shaft. Do you have the little card that came with it to verify the gap?

Yessir! He’s not too far from me and built my first, and next transmissions. He’s a wealth of knowledge and an incredible builder! I give him a lot of credit for the consistency in my setup and run a huge banner for him on my back glass…was able to grab a track championship a little while back...

It should, I know mine does somewhere.