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Do we assume you've adjusted the secondaries so they feed some air at idle? This quite often allows you to close the primaries enough to get a clean idle with both mixture screws. It usually doesn't take much of an increase to allow this to work.

And agree, when setting height, roll the car back and forth to settle the tires. More helpful than jouncing.

Yes, first after loosening everything and sitting on blocks, measure and. adjust ride height. I'd disconnect sway bar on one side to verify it isn't pre-loaded which can affect height. I always loosen the lower control arm nuts before adjusting ride height.

Can't believe it would be this, after all this time. But I'd loosen the lower control arm pin nuts, the upper arm eccentrics a little, and lower shock bolts. Then set the tires on some blocks or ramps and retorque everything at ride height! I might also loosen the sway bar links and make sure...

Yes dry fit the pan before applying paint or sealant, in case you need to make some clearance dimples. And verify you can loosen the drain plug before installation.

If the crank needs turning anyway, wonder how much you could gain with offset grinding the rod journals.

Absolutely the first thing I would do! Sounds like a car with 1/4" of toe OUT. You can verify this with a tape measure yourself. You'll figure it out

In a book about Richard Petty I saw a black and white pic of an engine and trans about to go in the #43. You could see what looked like a narrow stripe running the length of the trans on top in the middle. I always wondered if it had been a color pic, if I'd see one of the "stripes" to help the...

Looks great! thanks for sharing this.

Yea, shimming engine mounts or loosening both sides and levering the engine in the right direction may get you a little more room. Not fun!

Well I guess you could partially close the choke on your next test drive.This will quickly tell you if its too lean, for whatever reason.

If its not way off, I’ve bent them slightly. ‘Till you find the correct one.

I get it, us ICE owners will have to stick together! And borla, boring!

Wow, people admitting to driving brand X stuff, unbelievable! I guess any size fits.

I'd call Bruno's Classic Muscle in Rockville, bet they could point you in the right direction.

Sounds like you understand the term "proper use" Hope its a fun trip, and. you don't have to pick up a wrench!

Sorry to read of your misery, thanks for all the documentation. Wanted to ask if anyone has ever had a cam company replace one because of wiping a lobe, or lifter failure? Please send your cam back to the mfg. THEY will measure it and tell you if its within spec. This info will help all of us!

Hey replicaracer43, your mailbox is full! You're not that grumpy are you?

I'd toe the front tires in a little more than they are, especially if they're toed out now!

Ok, if you're planning on driving to the Nats on these tires I'd say, don't do it! Now if you're just gonna put them on at the track and run low air pressure, I'd be fine with that. Like others have said, running these at 25 psi or more on the street will cause very uneven wear and poor handling...

Not sure I'd agree with that uncompetitive statement. For the first year of a doomed program I think both teams did really well. I mean by 1970 ford had been at it casually in '66, and seriously since '67. And gm seriously since '67. even amc had a couple of years on the Mopar teams. Too bad...

interesting picture, makes me wonder if that was a nascar gt or "baby grand" car. The roll cage and shock mounting don't look TA legal.

Yes, all the competition had an easier path to a 5 liter engine. Except Mopar and Pontiac! Always wished there was an easy(cheap of course)way to build a Mopar 305. CP autocross rules had a weight break for under 5 liter cars.

If you're at all handy with tools, you can fabricate a front spoiler. I did it on my '72 Challenger. Make one out of cardboard, cut and tape 'till you like the fit then transfer to flat piece of plywood. Figuring out mounting brackets will be time-consuming, but do-able. Make room for brake...

Some great suggestions here! My favorite mods are block off as much air as possible thru the grille, at that speed you won't need a big opening. Adjust the rear edge of the hood so air can escape. Lower the nose, now this will reduce caster. So you'll have to do some mods to get the caster back...

Is there any difference between the original torker and the tm5? Wonder if anyone ever compared dimensions of both intakes. I agree, they both look great!

I'm really heartened to hear all the good words about SCCA events. I ran my first one back in 1985, back then my local events were all designed by people driving rabbits, civics, x19s, stuff like that. When I'd ask why courses were so tight, I'd get told "its to slow the big cars down" even...

Well, its been awhile since I did it this way, but if you're not removing flywheel, leaving the B.H. on will mean you don't have to mess with starter and bolts/wiring. and the factory B.H. bolts sometime have clips that support a wiring harness. So if its just to replace clutch disc and/or...

Yes! you want the shaft to pivot freely while you adjust the height. Torque the shaft nuts only after you're happy with your height adjustment.

Man, I'd stub my toe on that the second day I had it! Take care of your back!