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I got the covers from Ansen, but they are currently sold out of the black/finned finish. Think they still have the polished ones though. I would not get any different covers unless you have a baffle/splash problem... or you just want to change the covers...

Yeah, mine did too, but they were inadequate! Just a heads up. After you install the PCV and run the car, pull the PCV hose from the carb and look to see if you have any oil in the hose. Before I changed the covers I had quite a bit!

Be sure to look at the quality of the baffling under your valve cover. I had a set of M/T's that did little to nothing to stop oil being ingested by the PCV. I changed to another company's cast covers and it made a day & night difference. Just a heads up, but your issue sure sounds like the...

Best not to mix and match like that. The Wagner unit will do a great job at keeping vacuum in the engine at all but WOT. Since no one runs WOT all the time, you are really dealing with idle & mid throttle issues with the PCV.

Ouch!

You may want to look into the ME Wagner Dual Flow PCV that can be adjusted based on what your engine needs. Would be a lot simpler than going to a vac system. https://mewagner.com/

I recall a Nick's Garage episode where he said the biggest issue he's seen with these leaks is when the block was line bored. Was your block line bored?

Funny, years ago people would buy the B&M Trickshift fluid. It was mostly rebranded type F! The 727 & 904's are not picky about the type of fluid. I've run type F for decades without problems. Like others have said, run what they recommend.

Man, you would be able to hear an echo if you spoke around those rear wheels! Excellent!

I would use the aggressive pads, for sure. When I hit the brakes, I want to STOP!!!

Nah, I think it was the chrome alternator that fixed the problem. The electrical system had to stand up and salute!!!

Yeah, the flowkooler pumps are what I use. Just need to ensure the thermostat is REALLY a high flow unit, like the one that Stewart Components sells. They have the big windows, unlike other "high flow" stats that are not really...

The overrunning clutch prevents it from turning the other way. Perfectly normal!

I've used WD-40 for some things, but also heard it gets sticky after awhile (on door lock cylinders). Would not think it is good to use on parts that won't be in use for quite some time.

Ignition switch or wiring going through the bulkhead

Hey, don't get me started on TCI either... ugh.

Yeah, I still buy Fairbanks shift kits from Superior. I've used both B&M as well as TransGo and found the Fairbanks to be "superior". Just my opinion, but the kits are less expensive than the other two and they WORK!

Exactly. Been there, done that. Options today provide for a stroked 360 (I used one from Blueprint Engines). He will be so much happier with that swap instead of trying to shoehorn in a BB, much less an RB.

@Bewy You could reset the float level. If the needle & seat are in good shape that should take care of the problem. Bewy can help with this also, as he is an Edelbrock carb guy!

Tried to PM you but your inbox is full. Would you please provide an update on how your PI setup is working after a few years of use? I have a 440 with Trickflow 240 heads and cast aluminum valve covers and am wondering if I would have any fitment issues. Any info you can provide would be...

With that much shaved off of the heads, wouldn't you also need to shave the intake side of the head for the angles to match? Maybe that was already done.

Congratulations!

That SP2P manifold has really small runners so an excellent match to your engine. I ran that same manifold on my 70 Duster 318 back in the 80's with a 600 Holley, fresh valve job, and mild Comp 252 cam. The car had a 904 trans w/2.76 rear gearing. Was an excellent daily driver. Driving from San...

Wear a raincoat, galoshes, and a sailor's hat cause you'll be slinging water everywhere! If you wear glasses get windshield wipers for them too!!!

I used poly mounts like above but there was too much vibration and made the dash rattle. Went back to stock style rubber and was much better. To each their own.

I hope it comes to pass

Saw a video recently, may have already been mentioned, that showed many of the lifter issues were two-fold. One was the lifter crown was insufficient or missing which caused the lifter to not rotate. The other issue, to a lesser degree, was the cam lobe did not have the correct taper. The video...

Best to use stainless steel wire that won't rust and fall apart.

Possibly because the ones who designed them saw it as necessary?

I put the Dougs on my 70 Duster 408/727 with floor shifter and they fit better than any header I've ever had. Only issue I had was when I upgraded the torsion bars from OE to 1.03. Had to clearance the headers to keep them from rubbing. Other than that a great fit.