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You also might try the Holley forum. There is or was a guy on there that was excellent

You likely either have some wiring hack someone did that is causing some sort of backfeed, or more likely some sort of cross between wires in the harness (such as melted from a previous short) that is causing this. If you do not have one go to MyMopar.com and download a free service...

I tend to agree. What he is saying, is, this is NOT a native 69 / early type. It is or was, a 70/ later isolated field, sometimes incorrectly called a "dual field." You need to disconnect all connections, get a meter, and determine if the field is GROUNDED. If so you can get the...

The issues are all right in the switch/ lock cylinder, there is no connection, mechanically, to any lockouts, etc. All I can advise is to get it out, get it apart and examine it. You have a service manual? If not, go to MyMopar.com, they are free. You may have to accept Dodge vs...

Steve, my friend, you need to write that book!!! LOL

Sorry this is NOT TRUE If you are going to ground one, it MUST be the GREEN wire that you disconnect. The light blue is switched 12V TO THE field, and by disconnecting and grounding the opposite field terminal (the one where the green was) you are causing full power through the field...

Don't discount the REST of it. I have found OPENS in the CHARGE WIRE/ ammeter circuit. In other words, the alternator / regulator were just fine, but the power could not get to the battery. Monitor voltage AT THE alternator stud. If it is way way high, but not charging, you have...

If you cannot do anything else, pull the dist out lay it on a bench and find some alligator clip jumper wires. Consider pulling it apart if necessary and connect back with the jumpers and device a way to get power to it. These are essentially a Mopar 4 pin box all packaged up...

You either need a helper, or some wire, so someone can read the meter or watch the test light. "Rig" ANY wire you have including an extension cord so you have wire to reach from the rear battery to the front. Now you can test various places. First thing I'd do is do that or rig...

??? Model year??? AbodyJoe had a pretty good breakdown of getting the column apart so far as ignition switch, but that is 70/ later

THIS

I probably will but will wait a bit. Also I don't know the s/n of them

My best Fluke may not make it. It powers up with a new battery, but it was somewhat warm, and the battery leaked. The others I have in the basement are "smokey." So I thought I'd buy an inexpensive tester to get by until I get something better, or see about getting the Flukes cleaned...

Unfortunately, not much, tho I do have a few leads to chase down. I've gotten most the kitchen, about all the living room, and quite a bit of the main bedroom cleaned out and the rug out of the living room. I've had 3-4 2 person teams that were essentially no-shows. One day before...

Easy. Even for an old guy. Try removing the ENTIRE dash out of a Dakota/ Ram to replace the heater / AC core.

Of course. I don't remember where it's tapped off, maybe right at the bulkhead. The switched power comes through the bulkhead, interfaces with the instrument harness, and connects to the rear harness over on the left kick panel

Explain to me how you are going to find a low resistance drop point with a megger. I have been failed "little" by drop tests. You don't really effin care about proportionate increases or anything else. You are mostly just concerned with an unreasonable drop, and usually the really...

You don't need to go to that work for an orifice. Wix (and others) make several different configurations of inline fuel filters with a 1/4" return already built in. Once again, do not connect that to the vapor line unless you provide a vent elsewhere. That IS the vent for the...

I use semi metallic. Even though the 67 has been apart for awhile, when it ran I could lock up the brakes at 70. Simply a decent quality semi metallic. And I bet you are not driving this thing 200K a year, either

What is it? If it's an H pattern, you may only need a longer handle to make it friendly.

Tough to say. I would be heavily suspicious of a carb problem, from what you have described. Idle screw should not need to be "clear out." Carb problem or vacuum leak. Have you run a compression test or leakdown test? Have you determined that all six are firing? One easy way to look...

I am against using vented caps. Too big a risk, if the tank is full, and maybe you park with the filler a bit "down" that it will leak down the side of the car. Either convert it to mimmick a 69/ earlier vent, (tube high in the filler tube) or plumb an additional fitting into the...

For decades I was not interested in a ".22" and now that they are worth too much money, I want one.

That's the thing, we don't know the battery state of charge nor it's condition

And ABOUT CB. There is generally a lot less traffic on CB than there used to be and you can buy used radios CHEAP. Do not discount it

He is not talking about bind, he is talking about length. If the PR is too long it will cause the master to lock up, because the ports in the bottom will not be past the improperly returned piston

What they are doing is using software on the phones to encode/ decode by some protocal into what amounts to sound card input outputs. The audio then goes into the transmitting radio, and the other radio receives and converts it to audio which is then decoded. Radio Amateurs have been doing this...

He found one of my missing pistols, a little DA only Colt 1911 look -alike 380. It's stainless, but the trigger parts and rear sight are not

And while you are under there, turn the key to "run" and make sure 1 of the 2 outer terminals has power. Center terminal is for the neutral start switch

Randy came down from Alberta for a few days, helped me and yesterday we made a BIG hole in the mess!!