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Nice score! I had a 78 D100 SL6 3 on the tree about 15 or so years ago. It was very difficult to keep up with traffic and the slow shifting a 3 on the tree requires made it even more difficult. I have a feeling you'll be swapping it out sooner than later down in socal.

That thing is called a bulkhead connector. Your fuse box is under the dash on the driver side. The bulkhead just allows wires to pass through the firewall to the interior. Congrats on getting the bulkhead connectors off without breaking them. No small feat on an old car. I'd tackle your other...

I moved the shifter toward the rear of the car in my 68 Barracuda. If you're using a console, you'll probably need to fab up a bracket like I did to get the shifter in the right spot so it's centered in the console top plate/boot. No console and you should be fine after you move the shifter...

I have the same one in my Duster and Barracuda. I'm not sure if I installed the lever wrong or what but the lever in both cars has a ton of play in it. Up and down as well as back and forth. Is yours the same way?

Overhaulin can make as many episodes as they want as far as I'm concerned.

Haha I might be. Since you're still in Taxifornia, come help me carry this 8 1/4 up into my loft and you'll see how this thing feels like it's made out of lead.

Call me crazy but me and a buddy of mine were really struggling to carry my 8 1/4 rear around the garage while me and the wife were able to move the 8 3/4 around with relative ease.

Chevy and Ford will be cheaper but not necessarily easier. You've got FABO and YouTube university as well. If you spend $25k on a Duster, you should be buying a car that is pretty much ready to go without much hassle other than routine maintenance. Things will break as you go and each piece...

Now is a good time to get out your volt meter, set it to test continuity and troubleshoot exactly where the switch failed. Doing things like this will help immensely in the future when it comes to troubleshooting. Just another tool in your toolbox you can use to figure out exactly where the...

Copy that. I was mixing up the ignition wire with the battery cable, which is why I was thinking 125A.

Back in the day I just ran a small screw through the circuit board and its held up for about 20 years but these days I'd go the correct soldering route.

I don't see an issue with using a 125A fuse near the battery as long as the MSD internal circuit breaker is rated at a good deal less than that. They're looking to protect their equipment and you're looking to protect yours.

Also if you order through Toyota, buy the parts online and then go pick up at the dealer. If you walk into the dealer and order and pay there, they'll mark everything up by a good 50%.

I don't think most people that are having a difficult time taking advice are doing it because they're stupid, lazy or have an ego. Usually it's because they're missing a few prerequisites as far as their automotive knowledge goes. What might seem simple to the person giving the advice can make...

They truly become members of the family. Sorry for your loss.

The 75 Power Wagon. Sounds like it has a draw to me. I'm no expert either but if you ever want a hand, let me know. I can at least get you feeling competent with your multi meter. Enough to easily address 95% of most electrical problems.

Have you tried disconnecting the negative cable from the battery, setting your meter to mA and connecting one lead to the battery negative terminal and the other to the negative cable? Should tell you if you've got a parasitic draw. At that point you can start removing fuses and disconnecting...

Thanks and yep timing mark was correct and 33* of total timing is what she calls for. All good now.

You guys called it. Was way too advanced. Also had a vacuum leak that was making it difficult to idle at 10* advanced, which was making me question things. Fixed the vacuum leak, backed off the timing and it no longer cranks slowly. Thanks!

Your timing is most likely just too advanced. Factory sticker might call for 0 TDC but you should be perfectly safe at 5* BTDC without any pinging. I normally run about 10* just fine. Get yourself a timing light you can trust and go from there. If you feel like your timing lights aren't right...

Good news. I went down there and talked to them again and the fire inspector said I still needed to get a compaction report. I brought with me a printed out version of the code that they have on their website and showed them that it says the driveway specifications refer to a one or two person...

Two things that don't normally come in kits are the pitman arm and idler arm. PST standard kit is weird because it doesn't come with inner tie rods. I really don't understand why they do that.

The plastic face on my radio was really cloudy years ago and cleaning it and putting rubbing compound on it didn't do the trick. I wound up sanding it with 2000grit and then used a compound with a wool pad on a drill. Then I used a less abrasive compound with a foam pad on a drill and it came...

I just skip over those videos. Half of them are fake, dangerous or pointless. The other day there was one where they showed you how to properly screw the braided end of a copper wire into a block of wood....

...engine has fired up immediately the 3 times I've tried it but it did seem like the split second it was cranking was still slow. I'll recheck the timing. I think I'm at 10* initial but I could be off there. I'm starting to question the mark on the balancer. I'll reestablish TDC and go from there.

This is a 68 Barracuda with 408 blueprint engine stroker with their Ready to Run distributor that comes with an internal ignition. No ballast. I rewired a good amount under the hood and dash and swapped out the bulkhead connectors not too long ago. I'm just now attempting to start the engine for...

I took slantsixdan's advice from years ago. Pulled the cable out of the sheathing and cleaned it with carb cleaner. Mixed white lithium grease with powdered graphite. Put a glob of it between my fingers and ran the cable between my fingers and into he speedo cable housing to coat it in grease...

Even if you had to only cut 60% of that to get a TKX in, you're already doing all the hard work of cutting and welding so an extra 40% really isn't a big deal one you're already dug into the job.

Permit has been approved and construction can begin but I cannot get the final sign off until the county fire gives their approval. Which is odd because what happens if I get the building erected and the driveway doesn't pass the compaction test? I now have to tear it down? Unless there is...

The Craftsman engine analyzer kit hasn't done me wrong yet. Plus I kind of enjoy how it's a bit vintage. Mine came with a timing light and remote starter as well.