Search results for query: *

I would say the 1969 GTS. But then again…I may be biased!

Did you replace the fuel tank? If the tank was bad enough to replace, the fuel line will be just as bad. If the tank was good, chances are the line will be okay, too. But no guarantees on that... and if you have an old tank full of crud, a new line won't solve anything for long. If you reuse...

House projects etc But will have all major stuff done over winter for sure

Im here ( Big AL)

I’ve been watching the 0.250 lift range as well. I’ve noticed some significant swings there, like up to 10 cfm from a minor change. I’m not quite sure what it is either. I’ve been wondering if it has something to do with the valve just becoming unshrouded at the cyl wall side.

I have found brand X guy's assemble a mopar roller cam engine with gallery restricters where they don't belong and cause a mess. Another is pickup to pan gap. Had one so tight to bottom of pan it acted like a seal. Did'nt break the drive but would overheat a 3/8 120v drill attempting to prime...

That red does not look factory. Doesn't have a tang on it to "catch" on plastic cover and the insulation isn't under part of the connector. Trace it to where it goes. The yellow as 67Dart273 mentioned is usually lighting.

Going on the way back machine. It was an Online tube setup on a 64. Slid through the crossmember and clips fairly easily. Getting it around the rear shock and axle was a bit of a pita

Got the biggest chunk of the downpipe fabbed and tacked together. Placement turned out really well. Not sure how or where I’m going to dump the exhaust. 4” exhaust anywhere under the car is tight.

Pinch is 1.039 x 2.18. I haven’t measured the volume in a few days. Last measurement was 190cc, but more has been cut out since then. Edit - corrected the pinch width.

Are you making your own, or did you buy the pre bent kit? The full brake line from front to back runs similar on the opposite side of the car ( I just finished this today). I made my own brake line bending it the same way that the factory did. It was not hat difficult to install. You start...

It is actually somewhat an easy job, I find it easier to remove the rear wheel for better access (front is off for other reasons). Part of what makes it difficult to get the line out is the undercoating, I found it easier to pull the clips with the line. There is one clip midpoint on the rocker...

Unfortun Unfortunately those numbers mean nothing to me, but they probably mean something to whoever built the converter. Perhaps others might be able to help you. I know that I can't say I've ever seen them on a factory core. The converter looks like a nicely done piece, and one would think...

Oh Dave, Where are you??

That explains the need to shim the mount.

All styles considered. Thanks

the first thing I did was flush tank and filled with premium after it wouldn’t start the first day, I’ve also checked the timing. Great idea I’ll try a heat gun tomorrow to see if there’s a dead cylinder. Car ran strong when it was put away, things happen and it just got neglected. Thanks again

I am working on my 1975 slant six dart, removing my old Holley 1945 and installing a "new" Carter 4956 BBS carb. My car has the original Evap canister with 3 connections and I know I need to install a new canister to avoid charcoal debris in the new carb. There are lots of threads about changing...

How was the install..? What car..?

I guess it's more of the installation that I'm thinking will be a pain. My gas line runs with the vapor line that goes from tank to charcoal canister. Just the start of removing the gas line I can tell it may be an issue going back in as far as not crimping or over bending.

if the oil looks like chocolate milk and or fills itself up (meaning, the dipstick shows at the add mark, then sometime later WITHOUT having added oil it shows at the full mark OR anywhere else above the add mark.) Rust on the dipstick. are all indicators of coolant getting into the oil. also...

YES on the GD.

DO NOT use fuel hose. You don't want this brake pushrod falling out later in life. The rubber piece gets installed on the brake rod frost, then pushed into the piston. It won't work the other way.

In a big open parking lot in the middle of the night, sliding around and having a good time.

Oh, where’s my buddy Dave. He has 9 of these, they’re his favorite. He’s a member here, but I haven’t seen him posting lately.

Hey Evan. I got tired of reading poor help replies. Having done this twice…… Get the oil pan of your choice. When your installing it, you’ll notice at the rear of the pan at the main cap isn’t a perfect seal and you’ll just need to apply of big goop glob of RTV to finish the seal. Being that...

I have two real nice scalp badges $50 for the set of $30 each plus shipping they have all the pins many more auctions Crossville Tennessee

Must admit that I do enjoy a rear wheel drive in the snow, way too much fun!

Blasphemy! give it away for shipping ( unless its 9") :rolleyes: