Search results for query: t slot

Found a "thing" in a thrift today, that turned out to be GOLD for 4.99. Turns out it's called a "sofia and sam" It's a very firm "memory foam" pillow with a hard top that you set you laptop onto. Some have a side shelf for mouse, etc, and or a gooseneck lamp. Mine does not, but...

...don’t let my double talk confuse you) and the opposite is true. Let’s say you made a big swing the other way. Let’s say it’s lean after the T slot or better yet it’s lean transitioning from the T slot to the mains. To clean up that lean spot in transition you can start the boosters (and by...

Thanks. More interested to know what the MAB and Jetting was. There seems to be a trend to too much emulsion and too big a MAB and Jet. Drilling throttle plates mean less airflow through the T slot. I know Greg fills them in. Can you remember what the IAB and IFR were on the carbs?

Well AJ I pulled the carb and the transfer slot was a perfect square so no adjustment was needed. I set the idle screws to the highest rpm and it was at 650 in drive. They were screwed out 1 3/4 turns same as before. I backed off the timing a bit to get the 750 in park number and connected to...

I don't see how holes in the butterflies has anything to do with blocking the t slot.

What cam are you running? 268/276/110 Voodoo703 Are you running Solid lifters? nope. What's the idle speed? 800 the Idle-timing? 18* the Setting of the Idle-mixture screws? fi-tech EFI Have you set the T-slot sync? is none OOps some of that is in Post 47 IMO because she sounds to be idling...

The PCV. It adds about 3 cfm at idle. An average size V8 with a stock cam draws about 17-21 cfm at idle. The carb, if designed to use PCV, will have it's passage sizes & any factory bypass air [ fixed/drilled passage ] sized to work with the 3 cfm from the PCV to have the correct T-slot position...

Good info! For the OP, what intake are you trying to fuel? And maybe my big ole Super Victor could use more shooter size!!

One Distributor had a soild line at 2500 or above. That Distributor was built wrong, and probably stiffer springs... mill is a 340, ported J heads, biggest valves you can shove in em, .484 MP cam, Strip Dom, 155 psi w/ forged stock bore TRWS...wanna say she's pulling 9hg. But, it's a xhina gauge

OP @Chadderbox70 The engine does not care how much or how little idle timing it has, so long as; 1) the T-slots are synced up and 2) the setting you choose does not cause a tip-in sag, and 3) the sunshell doesn't rattle too harshly when you put it into gear. 4) and the plugs stay clean. The...

...block for a car that will be street driven. It needs compression, heaps of timing at idle [ about 35* or more ] & probably carb work on the T slot position. Retarding the cam would be the WORST thing you could do, like putting lipstick on the pig. Since this is a single pattern cam, when the...

Yes. I have another set of slot wheels that fit. I'll get a new 14" steelie for the spare as well. Have to decide on what tires to put on. BF Goodrich T/As maybe Guess the old aluminum slots will hit the sale.table. They are nice, heavy SBP

Sence my carb has a pressed bleeds and restrictors Is this where I would try using small wire in the restrictors in the metering blocks i refered to earlier?

Well, Yes, you can set the timing anywhere you want to, with the T-slot exposure anywhere in the 020>040 window as @Bewy already mentioned. So long as; Rule#1, you don't get a tip-in sag, and Rule#2, so long as the trans doesn't bang too harshly when shifting from N/P into any gear, especially...

Ok cool. But would the main idle on the throttle level affect the t-slot on the primary? And No Sir, no finger on the primary pic. Should I close the main idle screw ?

Lie down on the couch and lets talk about why your feeling irritated. I'm sorry it looks like our time is up for this week. We can pick up where we left off next week. Until then remember to practice taking a deep breath and finding your safe place. Hesitation was on rapid movement of throttle...

Even easier. I never would have though of just beating on the shell to expand it slightly. Sounds like a machinist's trick. I replaced the LCA bushing years ago. I recall first pushing on the rod with my hydraulic shop press which pushed the innards out, shearing the rubber. I then recall...

...40*. Use MVA to add to the static timing. This gets done FIRST. - increase in IFR, 0.003-5" - more idle air so that you have 0.020-0.040" of T slot below the blades at idle, in gear. Later TQs have bypass air in the choke air horn that can be enlarged. Earlier models should have the blades...

...of the fouled plugs, which would account for the difference in header temps. Plugs should be heat range 5 in NGK, no colder. I would remove the centre carb & make sure you have 0.040" or less of T slot showing. More than 080 would probably account for the rich idle & indicate bypass air is...

Read post 290. IMO, and this is just my opinion your tune up is far enough off that taking the T slot restricters out is a band aid to cover up other issues.

Do not delete the PCV. It keeps the engine clean internally. All carbs that use PCV are designed for the air flow they add. Make sure the PCV is not gunked up. It should rattle when you shake it. If blocked with gunk, it might let in excessive air & be contributing to the problem. Have you got...

Apologies for the hijack, but this info may be useful to OP and others struggling with driveability and AFR issues :) I have been through all those changes, including installing TSRs :rolleyes: Dialing in my 950 If my t-slot comes in earlier or richer, it's too rich at the top of the t-slot...

...ever talked about those holes causing fuel to flow from the boosters. I just don’t know. I do remember he is pretty particular where the holes are. I don’t remember exactly where he says they should be but IIRC I *think* he said they need to be oriented to the T slot. I need to verify that too.

If it’s actually going lean where you think it is, add some emulsion in the middle of the stack. A bit more emulsion will make it richer sooner. It may actually need less emulsion though as it’s probably going rich first. Just my thoughts.

The fact the mixture screws have any authority (work) shows the t- slot is very close. Starting at 1 1/2 turns out is just a industry starting point, thus the adjustment afterward. Believe your vacuum guage, myself, I'd be happy where it is, and check that every other aspect of the tune up...

I run 12/34 in my hi-pressure 367 combo too, and with the VA modified to 22* on the spark-port, set to come in quick and fast; and with the Airgap and a 750DP. IMO, timing is NOT your problem, (unless the engine is in detonation which is hard to imagine at 34* and 4000rpm). 12* is plenty enough...

...position is correct relative to the T-slots, the idle mixture gets adjusted with the mixture screws. Enlarging the IFRs will richen the T slot cct to help with off idle tip in. I am not sure if QF uses a restrictor/restriction to the T slot; often called the IDC, idle down channel, it...

Well, "I'm Baaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaauuuuuuuaaaaack!" Prelim report is they removed a / some polyups, no cancer, looks pretty good otherwise. Followup report later when the doc calls back I did learn one thing......."next" time I will not sked for this time slot if possible. I queried a...

Thanks, that makes sense. I'm sure the intake ports are bigger, although still the standard Mopar big-block size. Naturally it's lean when cold and needs throttle tickling to keep it alive until it gets warm. But after a 30 minute drive on the highway, the AFR gauge showed leaner again and it...

Good to hear things went well.