I put it into gear and it dies.

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TT5.9mag said:
****. Disregard. I was thinking of another thread.
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So I took the carb off and squared up the transfer slots, then I went looking for a timing light. something is telling me when I get the light on it it'll have 2 deg. initial and 27 deg. total. just a guess but we will see tomorrow.
 
TT5.9mag said:
Yea maybe I used the wrong wording when I said to add it as a tuning tool. But there is zero downside to using one and actually significant sealing benefits and maybe even a little power in the ring seal. The idle bypass air will definitely help the stalling while in gear problem. That’s really the point I was making. I do agree with @67Dart273 tjough I think we wandered a little off course.
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I agree 100% and I know you've seen my post the PCV diagram many times, only to be argued with. LOL It's kinda like a good operating vapor recover system. There's really no down side to it. lol
 
The PCV.
It adds about 3 cfm at idle. An average size V8 with a stock cam draws about 17-21 cfm at idle.
The carb, if designed to use PCV, will have it's passage sizes & any factory bypass air [ fixed/drilled passage ] sized to work with the 3 cfm from the PCV to have the correct T-slot position at idle. If you eliminate the PCV, the extra air has to come from somewhere else: usually cracking the t/blades open more....which will now mess up the delicate T-slot position. There is no reason to eliminate PCV, it is a really good system that has worked well from day one...
 
ok, so I was able to mess with the timing light and I got it at 35.5 degrees total timing.
I know I need to mess with the carb still, but it is at least idleing lower with the transfer slots being a lot closer to square. It went into reverse without dying, but when I tried to pull it back into the garage it died. So it still has the same problem but slightly better.
It ran better when I gave it some choke (fully warmed up) so I think I need to give it more gas at idle. (it also smoothes out at around 15-2000 rpm.
 
Total? What is your initial? That is what's gonna affect the "low down" area. Have you made an effort to see if the vacuum/ centrifugal is working? Centrifugal is likely more important.
 
Total at "WHAT" RPM? Do you even know what total timing is yet? And no, it's a serious question, not a smartass one. "RIGHT NOW" you don't even need to worry about total timing. Throw it out the window for the now. Let's concentrate only on initial for now. You need initial on a stock 318 probably around 12 degrees at the most to START and then work on "everything else". If it won't idle in gear with 12 degrees initial (idle) timing, the problem is NOT in the timing. Also, did you ever get the points right? THe points need to be adjusted FIRST....that means BEFORE you adjust timing or you'll never get timing right.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Total at "WHAT" RPM? Do you even know what total timing is yet? And no, it's a serious question, not a smartass one. "RIGHT NOW" you don't even need to worry about total timing. Throw it out the window for the now. Let's concentrate only on initial for now. You need initial on a stock 318 probably around 12 degrees at the most to START and then work on "everything else". If it won't idle in gear with 12 degrees initial (idle) timing, the problem is NOT in the timing. Also, did you ever get the points right? THe points need to be adjusted FIRST....that means BEFORE you adjust timing or you'll never get timing right.
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Ok. so yesterday I was only doing timing at idle. it has no vacuum advance hooked up yet at all. I was going to try and get a vacuum line after church today on it and try again. And before I started with the timing light yesterday I rechecked the points and they are still set at .17 and working fine.
also I had the vacuum gauge on it and it was always at around 14-15hg at idle. didn't get higher than that.
Also, at idle if I tried to get the timing down below around 25, or so it would die.
 
Either the timing light is AFU, the timing marks are wrong, the cam is "slipped" timing, or you are making some mistake.

Regardless of what the book says for initial/ idle timing, those will run at TDC
 
67Dart273 said:
Either the timing light is AFU, the timing marks are wrong, the cam is "slipped" timing, or you are making some mistake.

Regardless of what the book says for initial/ idle timing, those will run at TDC
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ok when I get home I am going to start all over again. I will put it at tdc and check the timing mark and I will make doubly sure the distributor is pointing at #1 at tdc. just to get a solid baseline then I will mess with it after that.
 
shittyslant6 said:
ok when I get home I am going to start all over again. I will put it at tdc and check the timing mark and I will make doubly sure the distributor is pointing at #1 at tdc. just to get a solid baseline then I will mess with it after that.
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To check your timing mark you need to see where your timing mark is with the piston at top dead center. Should be at zero. Probably should use a piston stop but to ball park it look down the sparkplug hole or use a plastic straw off a spray can to feel tdc while a helper turns the motor over by hand. Not with the starter. Be careful, don't drop the straw down in the hole. It will be easier to turn the motor with all the plugs out.
 
92b said:
To check your timing mark you need to see where your timing mark is with the piston at top dead center. Should be at zero. Probably should use a piston stop but to ball park it look down the sparkplug hole or use a plastic straw off a spray can to feel tdc while a helper turns the motor over by hand. Not with the starter. Be careful, don't drop the straw down in the hole. It will be easier to turn the motor with all the plugs out.
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yes, I did that yesterday and it was at zero but today I have a helper so it'll be more accurate
 
shittyslant6 said:
yes, I did that yesterday and it was at zero but today I have a helper so it'll be more accurate
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side note; when it is at tdc, the rotor on the distributor is pointed at the water pump. I think it was installed at around 10° btdc.
 
shittyslant6 said:
side note; when it is at tdc, the rotor on the distributor is pointed at the water pump. I think it was installed at around 10° btdc.
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With the motor on tdc and the rotor twisted clockwise the rotor should be approximately halfway between #1 and #8. That's just a ball park to get the motor started.
 
Don't worry about the dist. if it has enough movement to time it. That is, -- If it will run and has the "swing" (rotation) to time it, it's OK. The slants don't have much distributor movement. If you are unaware there's the clamp bolt at the block, which gives you a small amount of dist. movement. If you need more, that same piece of the clamp goes back around the bottom of the dist. body, and there's another bolt into the bottom of the dist. which works just like the one on the block.........you can loosen it and move the dist. more.

Make sure you have the timing light dialed to zero. If possible, use a NON dial up light and read timing directly off the timing marks. Make sure of course that you are on no1 cylinder--the front most cylinder.

Did you ever check that the mechanical/ centrifugal advance seems to be OK? Just spring the rotor against it's springs and "feel" for slop and "feel" for free movement. You should be able to rotote the rotor against the springs and it should snap back freely.

slant-dist-bolt-jpg.jpg
 
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67Dart273 said:
Don't worry about the dist. if it has enough movement to time it. If it will run and has the "swing" (rotation) to time it, it's OK. The slants don't have much distributor movement. If you are unaware there's the clamp bolt at the block, which gives you a small amount of dist. movement. If you need more, that same piece of the clamp goes back around the bottom of the dist. body, and there's another bolt into the bottom of the dist. which works just like the one on the block.........you can loosen it and move the dist. more.

Make sure you have the timing light dialed to zero. If possible, use a NON dial up light and read timing directly off the timing marks. Make sure of course that you are on no1 cylinder--the front most cylinder.

Did you ever check that the mechanical/ centrifugal advance seems to be OK? Just spring the rotor against it's springs and "feel" for slop and "feel" for free movement. You should be able to rotote the rotor against the springs and it should snap back freely.
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no, I did not check for slop in the mechanical advance, I will check that too.
the timing light I bought is a dial back harbor freight one.
 
You are confusing terms I believe. It makes no difference at all which direction the rotor is pointing at TDC as long as the number 1 cylinder is wired to that terminal on the cap. Number 1 can be any of the 8 pins on the cap. Put the engine at TDC compression, number 1 cylinder, and the rotor will point to a pin on the cap. Make that wire number 1. Follow around the cap with the wires in the firing order. Then start the engine and set the timing with a light around 12 degrees. Then (if the timing is stable and not jumping around) don’t touch it again.
 
92b said:
Set it zero.
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I might not have been clear. Set the light to zero and read the timing from the cover. 12 degrees is fine. Make sure the vac adv. is un hooked when you time it. Do you have a light you can borrow just to check against yours? If it won't run at 12 degrees you need to keep digging. When you say it won't run at less than 25 deg. is it dying because it's just idling to slow or can you turn the idle screw up to make it run?
 
92b said:
I might not have been clear. Set the light to zero and read the timing from the cover. 12 degrees is fine. Make sure the vac adv. is un hooked when you time it. Do you have a light you can borrow just to check against yours? If it won't run at 12 degrees you need to keep digging. When you say it won't run at less than 25 deg. is it dying because it's just idling to slow or can you turn the idle screw up to make it run?
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I can turn the idle screw up and it'll run but it runs terrible. sounds like a vw. and none of my friends have a timing light to even check mine against. that's why I had to buy one. even O'Reilly's stopped renting them because nobody uses them anymore
 
Those of you going by this fellow’s name, its no longer a slanty. Hes trying to dial in a teener.
should change your name, btw.
“The member formerly known as shittyslantsix”

i honestly think you should pull carb and get it sorted out. Without a good tuneable carb you will be chasing timing forever.
Known good carb comes to mind…
 
Tooljunkie said:
Those of you going by this fellow’s name, its no longer a slanty. Hes trying to dial in a teener.
should change your name, btw.
“The member formerly known as shittyslantsix”

i honestly think you should pull carb and get it sorted out. Without a good tuneable carb you will be chasing timing forever.
Known good carb comes to mind…
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which carb? Ive got no good carbs anywhere in my garage.
 
shittyslant6 said:
I can turn the idle screw up and it'll run but it runs terrible. sounds like a vw. and none of my friends have a timing light to even check mine against. that's why I had to buy one. even O'Reilly's stopped renting them because nobody uses them anymore
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Ok. Try this. With it timed and running at idle place your hands over the top of the carb as if to choke it out. Start with hands cupped loosely letting air bypass freely. Slowly move your hands together restricting the air more and more. See if there is a spot that makes the engine idle increase and smooth out. Choking beyond that sweet spot will make it slow down more or die off.
 
shittyslant6 said:
which carb? Ive got no good carbs anywhere in my garage.
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Hard to find someone willing to loan you a good carb to prove a theory. And check the base gasket. My thermoquad’s phenolic spacer was cracked, caused a backfire and burned up a perfect running carb. Burned the plastic bowl while i was driving.
 
Tooljunkie said:
Hard to find someone willing to loan you a good carb to prove a theory. And check the base gasket. My thermoquad’s phenolic spacer was cracked, caused a backfire and burned up a perfect running carb. Burned the plastic bowl while i was driving.
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the spacer and gasket are good, I just had the carb off to re-do the transfer slot adjustment.
the carburetor is already a remanufactured one that was put on in 2008 that I rebuilt because It had a bunch of oxidation all inside it.
the thing is just tired. I'm thinking of getting this thing at my local discount store.
PXL_20220108_002758150.jpg
PXL_20220108_002811204.jpg
 
Add an intake, gaskets and throttle/ kickdown linkage and you still dont know the condition of timing chain. In it for a grand. go get a wrecker 2 bbl that matches yours. 50 bucks.
 
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