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Yes it was a slant car. I put the 383 into it.

Cool looking bracket. I sure would have used one if they had been available back in 90-91 when I dropped my Valiant's motor in. I was able to make a chain work, though, by running the chain sort of diagonally across the motor instead of using the two mounting points on the driver's side of the...

The cores that will be most valuable for use in a re-grind will be the cams that [a] have the lowest lobe lift & have a LSA closest to the desired LSA of the new cam. This will preserve as much of the base circle & lobe size for the re-grind.

Vin is jibberish. LH23888. So no engine size and no place of birth.

I wonder If the Motor Trend channel is going to cease to exist ? It appears so.

There is limited info on the vin but if the vin shows a slant and it has a V8 (yes I know it can be swapped) that is a clue the vin is not original to the car.

Id try Evaporust

Building a semi-clone LO23 for street/strip use. Engine is 500" 10.5:1, Crower SFT 238/249 @ 050 cam, modern MP cross ram & ported MP aluminum heads. I'm looking at two Carter Competition Series 750 AFBs, Edelbrock AVS2 650s, possibly ponying up for a pair of Holley 770s, or Holley 4224 660...

If you are not trying to save the shaft? There is a process where you use Alum and heat It dissolves steel but doesn't touch aluminum. Because carbs are not pure aluminum I would test a throwaway carb in the solution

Thanks Dana, I forgot about the package tray. I wasn’t sure it was the SO or vin in those places being it’s a 68. This car has had the vin number changed and I’m trying to prove that. Thanks

When I pulled the vc's to dbl chk valve lash they were a c-sucker to get off. I shellac'd them to vc and some would still stick to cyl head. I may try the cork sammich in the future.

Hope you rolled the pushrod on a flat surface. Bent pushrod may show similar marks . Cheers

Yeah right. :rolleyes:

It doesn't take much clamping force to hold oil back with a good valve cover. I've re-used glued to valve cover cork gaskets double stacked over and over.

I have also heard of on the package tray or x bracing behind the back seat.

I may be able to help, if you need the lower steering column bearing. Made this for a guy a while back, and it seemed to work for him, only issue was the pocket for the bearing. He said it was 2", and it ended up being 52mm which is 2.047", so he had some sanding to do... easy fix on my end...

Took a look at that and looked up the part number the two bolt hoes and the ball locations are the same, though I haven't seen any with the extra part to the right. Is it for the return spring?

:D :D

IIRC In 68 like 67 the core support and trunk lip still had the SO number not the serial number from the vin. The SO number is only on the build sheet and IBM card and fender tag, and the vin is on the build sheet and IBM card so with out either there is no way to tie the car's vin to the SO...

I could be wrong(again) but I thought I read shitty stuff about them??

Yep I'm getting what you're saying. The ONLY leaks were coming up bolt holes and I took @str12-340 advice and used Permatex and it solved it. I guess I'll have to chk 318 heads I have on shelf to see if holes are open or not. I used thick gaskets, can't remember if Fel or MP. I can't add anymore...

Thank you for all your help, I will try several of these ideas and I will make sure to report back if I have successfully removed the shafts and which one seemed most beneficial.

Working on a 67 Barracuda lower steering column bearing kit. I made one for a guy a while back, and thought I should see if its needed. Made out of fiber reinforced nylon, in a high temp printer.

1968 dart. Is the last 6 or so vin #s on the rad support and the trunk lip? Any place else to look? Need to prove the car is one of the same. Thanks. Kim

I have a nice 8.25" 3.55 gear set. Threads and splines (27) on pinion gear are perfect, aswell as all the teeth on both pinion and ring gear. All looks to have minimal wear. Asking $150. Obo +shipping.

I'm not sure you are picking up what I am laying down Steve. The sealing of the oil needs to be before the fasteners.

Did you feel around the fender inside for the bondo/weld that filled the holes in?

I tried rtv on bolts, still leaked. Permatex fixed that.

1966 Dart, my first car. My Dad highly suggested that I buy a neighbors car when I was 14, and told me I had two years to fix it. I fixed it in one year and this was the result...... The next year seemed to be the longest of my life at the time. He was a muscle car guy and of course it had to be...

Mine don't. Factory Commando covers with the wrinkle black paint, so I didn't want to use "spreaders" etc.