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Car is SOLD!!!!!!!!

Car has GOT TO GO. I was told today that I better start looking for a job so MAKE ME AN OFFER. IT MUST GO!

Layoff is coming....I need to sell Now. $10,000.00 takes it now. You can't build this car for $10K ....hell you'd be lucky to get the body work done for $10K.....I can deliver as well and if it's far for a charge maybe.

Bump....This car needs to go....you won't find a better car for a better deal...complete or rolling chassis.

For the right price I'd consider delivering it too or working out a deal for delivery....Lot's of parts cars and unrestored cars are for sale for not much less than mine and this one is ready to go....I am looking to sell ASAP. Make me an offer...

Will let it go for $10K as a rolling chassis.....I pull the motor and trans...you get the fuel system, MSD Boxes and Nitrous kit.....all braided lines -8AN supply and return, 12 gallon fuel cell, Mallory Comp 140 pump and filters.

I gotta sell it before winter.....life priorities have changed and I know I am giving it away at $12K but I priced it to sell.....

FOR SALE 1973 Plymouth Duster $12,000 OBO Engine - '73 318 Block bored .030 - Stock Crank (.010 under on mains and rods) - Stock rods (shot-peened, resized, magnafluxed, ARP wav-lock bolts) - TRW forged aluminum flatops (9.48:1 CR w/ MP thin head gaskets)) - Straightline Custom...

Very good point Tom.....Just Dashes is the only way to go then. Or try and find an NOS or good used one.

I used on of the dash caps from harden's Muscle car world on my Duster...it fit really well. Just make sure you have it flat and all taped or weighted down across the pad when the adhesive is drying.

Ace is exactly right.....celluose is at the top of the list for filter material followed closely by synthetic cellose material. Well oil does wear out but it wear out cause the additive package goes away over time and the all the dirt and crap suspended in it along with the heat starts to break...

There was only one perfect man and he was crucified....... We all make mistakes but that comment above is one of the most valid things I have ever heard.....trust but verify.

I run a Napa Gold (Wix) 1348 or Wix P/N 51348 which is the filter for the V6 Dakota and Neons. It is smaller and easier to get to with the headers and there is no need for that leaky adaptor. Baldwin, Fleetguard, Wix, Purolator Pure One, Donaldson, Amsoil (Which are made by Donaldson) and...

1-3/4" primary and 3" collector.....Hooker P/N 5204. You have to run manual steering. You CAN'T have a sway bar on the front and a mini-starter is really nice and should be mandatory.

Honeslty the Hooker SC are fine ont he street as well.....they don't hang as low as the small tube Headmans and they fit really well.....plus they are $200 cheaper for better flow....the choice is obvious.

The thing is if you are going to swap to manual brakes why not upgrade to the aluminum M/C that has a bigger bore and better pedal feel and more pressure......that old 4-bolt M/C is junk IMO unless you are going for the un-molested factory look or numbers matching. With the upgraded M/C the...

Get the 4-bolt to 2-bolt swap plate from someplace like Mancini or Magnum HP, get a M/C from Napa or Autozone for an early 80's 3/4 Dodge Ram truck. I didn't even need the adjustable pushrod cause I had manual brakes to begin with but if you have power brakes you need an adjustable rod and you...

Are you gonna have the Eddy's ported or bolt them on right out of the box? If you are gonna spend the money have the Eddy's ported then they will out flow the Magnum heads.....if you are just gonna bolt them on then go with the Magnums and put the money elsewhere.

Did the one on eBay come off a Hemi car for that price.......

Maybe I have a more knowledgable dealer then....the guy I talk to and buy from is really up on the subject cause he has a Chevelle and he's aware of the problem and has done some research and talked to higher up's from Brad Penn. I know Chuck from Best Machine endorses and sells Brad Penn and...

While I will agree the tapered is a better design over all there isn't anything wrong with the ball bearing. If you were building an auto cross car or a car for drifting then yeah the tapered would be better......but honestly if you were building a car for those types of racing you'd probably...

I have talked to the guy at my local dealer quite a few times and have no worries about it. I don't know of any oil company whether it be Brad Penn, Royal Purple or Joe Gibbs that will tell you whats in their additive packages. Those are what set them apart from each other. The only reason...

There are some guys that don't like em......One of my best friend's hates em.....he always jokes that he is gonna tow me home when they fail.....he's still waiting. I laugh at him cause I don't have to mess with that end play adjustment. It's like anything else.....some people like em....some...

That is exactly right :thumblef:

I run Brad Penn Racing oil and don't have to worry about adding anything. It's not rated for passenger cars so it doesn't fall under the EPA BS. It costs me under $4 per quart and i have a local distributor that I can go pick it up or they will deliver it to my house for free even. Joe Gibb's...

I have had the green bearings on my street car for over 4 years with thousands of miles and not had any issues......that green bearing can't be used on the street rumor is complete garbage. Hell more than half of the new vehicles on the road now don't have tapered bearings in the rear axles...

Yeah I bought some stuff off him as well. If he doesn't make something and you want it and have a template you can send it to him and he'll give it to you cheaper if not free since he can make a pattern off it and then sell them. I agree we need more guys like that.

My hood and fenders came from Unlimited....I had no issues with shipping and the prices were good....but that was about 5-6 years ago. Now structurally my parts are fine......cosmetically they sucked. They have terrible finishing done to them and it all had to be re-done and mudded and fixed...

Hyper pistons are fine to run. KB told me their hypers would handle a 200 shot with no issue: AS LONG AS YOU FOLLOW THIER RING END GAP GUIDELINES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I personally wouldn't run a nitrous kit with a mechanical fuel pump. IMO if you are gonna spray a motor you are...

Couldn't have said it any better there QH. There is nothing wrong with nitrous and it WILL NOT hurt your motor if you know what you are doing and have the fuel system to support it. Like Crackedback said.....pretty much any motor out there will handle a 100-150 shot with no problems at all and...