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Just use the stock replacement ballast resistor for the car. I have done quite a few points to electronic conversions and I just used the stock points ballast resistor. They run fine. Chuck

It looks like the cylinders that have the longest spark plug wires are the ones with the weakest spark and the ones with the shortest have the best spark. Possibly a weak coil can't get the fire down the longer wires? You've changed everything else, might try a different/new coil. If you are...

Voltage regulator. That black box right behind them. Chuck

Should be fine. It's the gold box that has an issue with street use. Chuck

Silicone spray lube Chuck

"L" is for built in rev limiter. You can run a MSD unit with a Mopar distributor. Chuck

I know it can be frustrating at times. I have had my momments when no matter what I did I just could not seem to make something work. I knew that there were millions of the cars on the road that are working fine but mine magically was the biggest pile and it had to be an engineering thing...

Ah now your thinking, yes that would be an issue with rotating a distributor the wrong direction. But... the distributors in the motors regardless if it is a clockwise or counter clockwise motor have to go in the same direction because you can't spin the oil pump backwards. It must go only...

It really doesn't matter which way the distributor rotates on a motor. If it rotates the wrong direction then put your wires in the firing order in the direction of the distributor rotation. Its the cam gear and oil pump driveshaft gear that decides which way the distributor rotates. The...

It would get you home but the advance curve would most likely be way different than a street car. Chuck

This is what I installed in my Valiant for drag racing. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRF-50103/ Using this the stock amp gauge will not work. I just installed a volt gauge (which is better anyway) to tell if my car was charging or not. Chuck

I wonder if he is working on a drag car? I had to put a alternator "kill" relay on mine because when I shut off the main battery switch the alternator would keep the car running. Chuck

Moisture caused the corrosion. To clean it use a brass wire brush. Chuck

Resistance = heat. It would get real hot if it wasn't bolted to some part of the car to act as a heat sink. Chuck

My '71 Duster will also die while running or at times it will crank but not start. It turned out to be the big gang connector on harness that runs out of the column. Chuck

Factory A/C systems use a seperate harness so I don't beleive it is that. Possibly an aftermarket A/C? Were does it it go at the other end? I wonder if it was a ground wire? Chuck

When you wired it wrong you most likely killed the diodes in the alternator. They don't like being wired backwards and will die instantly if done so. If you didn't trade in your old alternator yet take out the brushes and keep them. Chuck

Pull the old brushes out and look at them. If they barely stick out of the plastic brush holder then they are worn out. They stick out of the brush holder at least 1/4" when they are useable. Did you order two sets so you have one later? Less than two bucks is cheap insurance. Chuck

Yes, you can purchase brush kits for Mopar alternators. I stock a set in my tool box it is the number wear item in the alternators. I have changed them out before while still in the car. Chuck

I hook mine to the 12v side of the ballast resister. Chuck

The lights themselves will not use less amps. A bulb is rated with wattage and is fixed. The power goes thru the switch and can create heat because of resistance in the contacts and connectors. What you do with a relay is the switch will now switch the relay and the higher amperage draw of the...

Put higher wattage bulbs in. There are usually different wattage bulbs in the same style base. Chuck

They should work fine being the senders are the same resistance. Chuck

I just looked at the wiring diagram and I can't tell either as far as color is concerned. If the wire is like you say and is next to the red wire in the connector then it is either the oil pressure sender or temp sender wire. I am guessing oil temp sender. Chuck

On later manual trans cars (somewere around '69) the switch is on the clutch pedal and the clutch needs to be pushed in to ground the starter relay. I myself am not a fan of the clutch pedal safety switch and wish there was another way. With the clutch style switch you have the crank pushed...

Yes, you can do this and it is basically like the factory manual trans starter relay. The early a-body manual trans starter relay is self grounding while the auto trans relay has the safety switch terminal. Chuck

I agree with RedFish, a lot of electrical problems can be traced to bad grounds. Chuck

I would also agree that 13.5 volts won't kill your battery. I am guessing that the reason the book says "race only" is because it is not a stock factory part and one of Mopar's lawyers said to use the term "race only" in case there is a problem later if someone does happen to cook something in...

The box grounds thru the bolts attaching it to the body. I have had boxes completly fail also. But I have had them do just like you and I described. It would partially fire what seemed like about 1/3 of the cylinders and it would almost go but it just wouldn't take off. I switch the box and it...

Just had this same thing with my sons '54 Dodge truck with a /6 and Mopar ignition. We started it up for the first time last saturday and it ran fine. When we went to start it Sunday morning, nothing, just intermitten firing of a few cylinders and would not take off. The plugs were nasty so we...