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where do you think the Scat cast cranks come from - if not China?

bump up the total mechanical to 34* which will add 5* to the total combined. it will run better @ idle and on the highway.

If its an 89 -360 it should be an LA style roller cam engine - gives you more options later on for upgrades - like a roller cam. no difference in 4bl/2bl - pistons are ±.080" in the hole. With your J heads @ ±72cc it will be a bit low on compression but still a good deal to start with. I used...

My dyno sym gives 454hp peak @ 6000 and 457tq peak @ 4000 rating the Airgap as a Dual plane High flow. If you use the Dual plane Max flow setting the hp jumps to 500 - a bit much me thinks. Either way you will have a great combo.

Check out their Platinum series I-Beam rods - they get my vote - really good rod.

Yes for early models like 76.

check Manciniracing

likely what Terry said - work with the priming tool to work the oil out of the hex and then the shaft should drop in.

your quit a guy - but typical.

the rod weight is a big factor in determining (and getting) a light bob weight. So as long as you have light weight pistons and a decent set of rods it should not be too hard to get an internal balanced forged crank assembly. with a 3.79 stroke, Eagle I-beam rods and Diamond forged pistons my...

Put it together with the parts you have listed and have some fun. It will run just fine. Use as thin a head gasket as you can - mopar makes a .024 I believe. check the pushrods for clearance where they pass through the heads. 340 can tell you all about what happens if you don't have enough...

I second that

it will work - but pushrod clearance in the heads needs to be checked and an LA front cover is required to run a mech fuel pump.

340 Dart I have a good balancer for a cast crank 340 if your interested. $25 plus shipping, which shouldn't be too bad via Canada post/USPS. PM me if interested.

I think you will find 32-33* total is the max you will want to run for a 4" stroker with closed chamber heads. I for one do not believe the noise in your video is all exhaust - hope I'm wrong. I'm running the magnum heads with 1.6 chevy rockers - the noise from the valve train is much the same...

get a set of Cometic header gaskets - they are the same design as the Felpro and will stand up to a lot. I've re-used mine 3 times so far with no leaks of Eddy heads and TTi headers. throw the tti gaskets in the trash can.

If you go with an 89 - 93 (I thought it was 92) you kinda get the best of both the LA and Magnum and there are some good roller cams available that will work with no mods to the block. I have a 91 block and it came with the 308 hds. If you want some more info PM me.

what heads and rockers are you using? How many threads showing on the rocker adjusters? Check the pushrods for rubbing where they go through the heads.

Why don't you use the M1 as it is a duel plane - correct - and not the single plane.

you might try the Cometic header gaskets - I have had good sealing with them - NOT the TTi.

good job - mock up the assembly and run the rotation thru the 720* to make sure you have at least 20-30thou clearance during the complete valve lift cycle. you can get away with just 20-30lbs on the head studs.

I use the NAPA gold1068 or Wix51068 - its a 3/4 length and will work too for a little more filtering.

Caltrac mono-leaf and traction control bars, splicer U-joints, adjustable 3-9 way shocks. - as much tire as you can fit.

stay with what you have - it will be a great combo for the street/strip. engine dyno #s are great if you are competing against Dynos!! Hope youhave spent some time/$$$ on suspension upgrades - you will need them.

borrow or rent a die grinder with a 1/4-5/16" carbide bit and elongate the holes towards the rocker shafts , especially for the intake prds at the top 1/2 of the hole. I also agree a 5/16" cmoly pushrod is more than adequate to use with the Eddy spring which tops out @ 320# @.580 lift.

its disassembly time if you want to use the 1.6s. elongate grind the holes to get clearance - its the only way, or go back to 1.5s. with 3/8 prds you may still have problems. Just another "bolt on " performance part.

Terry I'll sell you a slightly used extended pan and filter extension for a decent price - unless of course you want the chrome one that holds the heat in better !!

stay with the ported J-heads unless saving 45lbs is your objective. you will be lucky to get $600 for your ported Js and Eddys will be in the $1500 range. I switched from ported Js to Eddy magnums and the power gain was minimal - least thats what the timeslip said. In your situation, I would not...

A "C" body drive shaft should have the right ends and is longer than needed - shorten to correct length, balance and go. Unfortunately if you change to the 8 1/4 or 8 3/4 you will need to shorten again - but thats better than starting with a "short one".

the retainers you have are for a smaller dia. spring - thus the ID of the spring is moving around quit a bit on the retainer. Id change to the correct size for the spring ID/OD if you want some longivety. JM2CsW.