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3000 rpm at 50 mph with your gears seems high. Maybe torque converter slipping?

I can tell you my car sounded like it had a rod knocking too. Looked at converter bolts and did not look like any were loose and did not see where it looked like they were hitting the dust shield but I did not put a wrench on them. Took it to a shop and $200 later they told me the converter...

As others have suggested, check your torque converter to flex plate bolts. If only one backed out just a little it will make noises like you are hearing. I was stubborn and didn't check mine right away because I was "sure" I had put loctite on those bolts. Evidently I did not because that is...

I use the same, think they were mopar performance. Never had a problem either.

What is the proper torque? I know I read on here somewhere that the listed torque value in the manual was wrong-too high. Thanks.

Yes, removing intake to change noisy hydraulic flat tappet lifters. Never occurred to me that openings in heads might be large enough to fish lifters through. Will look and see. Joe's Gibbs racing break in oil only has about an hour of run time on it, am trying to save $70 dollars or so by...

How do I accomplish this feat? Will drain radiator part way down but plug in side of block is frozen. How do I keep coolant from getting into the valley and into the oil? Still have almost fresh break in oil and need to keep it clean. Thanks for any tips.

This engine is not broken in. 30 min run time total. Would the Rislone or maybe Marvel Mystery Oil hurt the engine at this time? Some more info. 318 block with factory 360 heads, rockers, shafts, pushrods, and valve covers. I just pulled the left side valve cover. I could turn half the pushrods...

How do you check the preload on non-adjustable rockers? Only thing I can think of is to feel pushrod to make sure it's not loose when valve is open? All pushrods were straight on visual inspection.

Dirty even though they are new? Factory shaft rockers. All the hold down bolts were tight on the shafts.

Joe Gibbs Racing 30 wt break in oil.

Didn't know if it was better to keep same brand lifters and cam for compatibility or if it made no difference. You are correct that warranty is not an issue .

I have a rebuilt 318 with small summit cam and hydraulic flat lifters. Engine sat for over a year before break in oil was added, oil pump primed and started. Engine started right up. Engine has only run about 30 minutes for camshaft break in and a few trips around the block. Lifters quieted some...

To tell the truh I was afraid to "tap it in". I did that in 1979 when I was a kid with a 340 I rebuilt myself. Didn't get drive gear hex down far enough into oil pump drive and chewed the oil pump drive up. Didn't know it at the time but knew I had no oil pressure at startup. The trauma from...

Ok, fellas, here's what happened. I kept turning the drive gear with a screwdriver in the slot hoping I could back it out. It had a slight to moderate resistance while doing so. I probably turned it a hundred or more times. Looks like this burnished the bushing. As I kept turning it it would...

Yes, was trying to drop gear into proper position for alignment then got the rude awakening. You lost me at i shaft bearing, you mean the just the I shaft not fully entering the bushing? I know that it is tight so far and it needs to go down another 5 inches or so to engage the camshaft gear and...

If I can't pull the drive gear out from the top I don't know what other choice I have but open to suggestions.

I rotated the drive gear so wouldn't that be like rotating engine? Bushing looks new. So I need to pull the intake, tap the drive gear out, then probably ream the bushing? Sounds like at best brass particles get in my oil. Is there a tool for reaming the bushing?

I attempted to install the oil pump drive gear and it is stuck too far up. This is a rebuilt engine I purchased without the drive gear installed. It is a 318 and has a new high volume pump. I purchased the heavy duty drive gear from mopar performance. Primed the oil pump with a long hex rod tool...

I have a 67 Dart that was a 273 2 barrel car from the factory. I put in a 318 with 360 heads and factory 360 4 barrel manifold. I bought an aftermarket replacement 340 throttle cable holder (bracket) and installed it. I bought an aftermarket replacement 340 throttle cable and it is several...

Yes, on my intake one hole is 3/4 inch threaded and the other hole is smaller and not threaded. I was hoping that with the outside EGR valve holes covered with a plate and the holes in the heads plugged that these last two holes would not need to be plugged. Thanks for confirmation.

Ok, I will leave those 2 holes in the floor of the intake unplugged. Thanks.

Would it make any difference? To plug them properly would require removing the manifold and don't really have the time to do that at the moment.

I have a 318 with 360 smog intake and heads. EGR valve holes on top of left side intake have been covered with a plate. The EGR holes in the heads by the exhaust manifolds have been plugged. That leaves the 2 holes in the floor of the intake below where the carb sits. Is it necessary to plug...

Mine came with a cork gasket that I think goes on the bolt between the adapter and the block. So should be 3 gaskets.

Do I need to plug these holes to use on a non EGR LA 318? One is threaded but one is not. If so, how do you plug the hole that is not threaded?

Do I need to plug these holes to use on a non EGR LA 318 ? One is threaded but one is not. If so, how do you plug the hole that is not threaded?