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Only picture I have at the moment. The shop is good, they have successfully installed several RMS systems. They will talk to Bill, as they have in the past on other builds. Will post what happens.

Yes, according to them a 17 x 8 inch wheel would clear. Not so much for me. What tire are you running on your 17 x7 rim?

The shop that has my Barracuda says the outer tie rod is hitting the inside of the rim as shown in the picture. Wheels are 17 x 8 inch torque thrust ll's with 5.48 inch backspace with p235 tires either 45 or 40 series. Car is a new build that just had alignment done and is not on the road yet...

I put a FirmFeel stage 3 on my Dart before I sold it and thought it was too heavy. It also still had a little play on center. In hindsight I think a Borgeson would have been better but I never drove a car with a Borgeson so don't have a direct comparison.

When I installed Bilsteins on the rear of my 67 Dart I struggled too. Used lube to no avail. I finally had to resort to drilling out some of the inside diameter of the bushing. Actually I used a burr bit in a drill to ream out enough to make it fit.

I have a 69 barracuda power steering column that I need to order the lower bushing or bearing for - the white plastic piece with the metal bearing in it. The column is at a shop a couple of hours away from me. I need to know if it was the bearing that took 3 bolts or 2 bolts. Is it as simple as...

Is the box bolted down tight? If so, try loosening the box then see if shaft goes all the way down. It just might be in a slight bind. Or you could loosen the firewall column mount a little to do the same thing I think.

You can do it. I also had never done any front end work before. I removed my entire k frame to switch to the newer 73-76 version and put all new disc brakes, torsion bars, replaced every suspension part, rebuilt my steering coupler, and replaced my steering box all with the help of people here...

My new bars were hard to get back in as well. Mine were powder coated and I didn't sand enough of it off the hexes before I put them in. They were greased well.

I'm having my a body 8 3/4 housing perches moved in 1/2 inch with Dr diff's kit. If I add a rear anti sway bar will the bar have to be modified because of this? Thanks

Redfish- yes my bushings came with the end caps. Got them from firm feel. 67Dart273- yes I did jounce the suspension several times. Shocks are not installed so I was able to move it up and down pretty well.

I installed bushings like this:

Pics are of right side arm. Top pic is front side of arm. Bottom pic is rear side of arm. I think they are oriented as you describe? When I set the cams as you described the ball joint end of the arm definitely swung to the rear. But when car was lowered and wheels on the ground tops of both...

I am confused. I think I have my upper control arm bushings installed for maximum caster but when adjusting the cams for max caster I can't get any negative camber or zero camber. I replaced the entire front suspension and was going to eyeball align it just to get it to the shop but ran into...

Thanks, guys.

Are the lower control arm, upper control arm, and strut rod bushings the only ones torqued after suspension is loaded? Is it ok to tighten everything else before suspension is loaded (ball joints, idler and Pittman arms, tie rods)? Thanks.

Remember that the 67 has a different idler arm bracket and requires 67 only idler arm unless bracket is modified.

Thanks, fellas.

Thanks for the feedback.

Have you had to replace the heim joints on the upper control arms? Thinking about this system but not crazy about heim joints.

Tabs The tabs were too short on mine as well. I used the clamp as there was no way to keep everything in place otherwise.

You will need to replace the master cylinder and bleed the brake lines. You could put up with it a short while but would need to check your brake fluid level constantly . It will also eventually ruin your carpet. Will also take the paint off your firewall and floor.

Looks like mine did when master cylinder leaked. Made light spot on carpet also.

Thanks guys

Are the left hand thread tie rod ends the outer ends and right hand thread ends the inner ones?

Sounds like a place to start. Called firm feel and they said similar. Set wheels straight ahead, install other parts, and see where the pitman wants to go. If it turns slightly more one way than the other probably have to move it a spline or 2. They did say the reason they do not have a master...

Crap, just remembered my old pitman is for small sector shaft and new one is large so I can't even use old one to help line new one up.

I'll try kerndogs suggestion and see if that works. Didn't want to pull old pitman off old box, lazy I guess and didn't know how close I could get it just eyeballing spline match between the two.

When I bought them from them they did not say they would not fit. Told them I was using manifolds. Engine is out of car but k frame installed. Trying to install the pitman so I can install everything else and see if they fit. Just don't know of easy way to line up pitman arm. Surprised it did...

67 Dart with factory 273 manifolds. Don't know if head pipes are going to have to be modified yet.