Camber setting with moog eccentric bushings

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67dodgedartconv

67dodgedartconv

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I am confused. I think I have my upper control arm bushings installed for maximum caster but when adjusting the cams for max caster I can't get any negative camber or zero camber. I replaced the entire front suspension and was going to eyeball align it just to get it to the shop but ran into this problem. The arm definitely moves toward the rear of the car when adjusting for max caster but then I have a lot of positive camber (top of tires out further than bottoms). Same for both sides. Top pic is front side of right control arm and 2nd pic is back side. Are these installed correctly for max caster? Ride height was set almost level with back. Lower control arm pivots and struts tightened after car was on wheels on the ground. What am I doing wrong? Thanks for any help, I only got this far with help from the board already
20171108_174032.jpg
20171108_174015.jpg
 
Mancini sells shims that go between the lower ball joint and the spindle that help get back that negative camber you're looking for. I've fought the same issues myself and have yet to try the shims but I understand they're supposed to help. Some sort of hardened washer, no idea how think they are. Make sure you wail on the locking nuts for the cams. Once I got mine set I heard all sorts of creaking and moaning from the bushing area when the suspension moved. Turns out the cams moved on me. The extreme angles you get from the set up mean you really have to tighten those nuts down really well. I've stripped the threads out of a few nuts trying to get them locked down. There's one brand of cam bolts that comes with longer nuts to help with this. I think the brand is McQuay Norris.
 
The pictures look nice but being so close, it is hard to tell what each picture shows. Which picture is the front of the arm and which is the rear?
The thinnest part of the rear bushing should be toward the fender, the thinnest part of the front bushing needs to be nearest the engine.
Also, as a baseline setting, I set the rear cam to allow the control arm to sit as close to the engine as I can and the front cam allowing the control arm to sit as close to the fender as you can.
 
Or to put it another way, you want the arm pointing 'back' so front pivot outboard, rear pivot inboard
 
Kern Dog said:
The pictures look nice but being so close, it is hard to tell what each picture shows. Which picture is the front of the arm and which is the rear?
The thinnest part of the rear bushing should be toward the fender, the thinnest part of the front bushing needs to be nearest the engine.
Also, as a baseline setting, I set the rear cam to allow the control arm to sit as close to the engine as I can and the front cam allowing the control arm to sit as close to the fender as you can.
Click to expand...

Pics are of right side arm. Top pic is front side of arm. Bottom pic is rear side of arm. I think they are oriented as you describe? When I set the cams as you described the ball joint end of the arm definitely swung to the rear. But when car was lowered and wheels on the ground tops of both tires pointed out towards fender.
 
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67dodgedartconv said:
Pics are of right side arm. Top pic is front side of arm. Bottom pic is rear side of arm. I think they are oriented as you describe? When I set the cams as you described the ball joint end of the arm definitely swung to the rear. But when car was lowered and wheels on the ground tops of both tires pointed out towards fender.
Click to expand...

I installed bushings like this:
Screenshot_20171109-072101.png
 
confused. Am I reading contradictory information here?
"The thinnest part of the rear bushing should be toward the fender" vs
"rear pivot inboard"

"the thinnest part of the front bushing needs to be nearest the engine" vs
"so front pivot outboard"

Does moving the upper arm forward move the bottom of the wheel back, increasing Caster?
EDIT
Thanks 72, another edit oops, 67. you posted as I was writing. see how easy I get confused.
 
With those bushings installed, the OEM eccentrics might be making more caster or camber than you need. I would just center the eccentrics and go to alignment rack.
Did your bushings include the end caps? I have one set with and one set without ( the earlier purchase without ). I suspect those end caps help prevent loosening and/or movement that was reported above.
 
67dodgedartconv said:
Pics are of right side arm. Top pic is front side of arm. Bottom pic is rear side of arm. I think they are oriented as you describe? When I set the cams as you described the ball joint end of the arm definitely swung to the rear. But when car was lowered and wheels on the ground tops of both tires pointed out towards fender.
Click to expand...

Did you 'jounce' the suspension and or move the car?
 
The advantage from the bushings is going to be the rear bushing. The front cam, you might have to adjust it to the 12 o'clock position to bring the camber close to zero.

I thought about the camber spacers mentioned in the thread already, but I was able to get .3* neg camber and still keep some good pos caster (with firm feel upper arms) so I didn't bother with the camber spacers. My car had (and still has) the taller disc spindles and I think that might be affecting my camber range a small amount.
 
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