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:angry7:

If you backed the tbars all the way off it probably WILL sit on the bumps. that's a no brainer

Mopar rear springs have a shorter front section than rear, unlike Fords and GM's. That's why traction bars don't work on Mopars. They look like **** too

I ran them on the street on my 69 Super Bee. When you go over a pothole they will drop into the hole fast. The 90% will be when it's trying to be compressed. So when you hit the far side of the pothole it will be really harsh. They suck for cornering too. BUT....if you're only planning on very...

lol

The thing about these conversions is the shock towers were never meant to carry the entire weight of the front end. That's why a lot of the conversions have an extra piece that stretches up under the shock tower. In their pics they show the tower tied in to their rollcage. So part of that extra...

I spoke with john Wright at Addco today about the poor fitment of the bar I just installed. He said that on some cars they fir fine. Others fit like mine. We traded some pics and the bottom line is he is sending me a replacement bar. One that does NOT have the extra kick in the bar. Here is a...

I just got an email back from Victory Performance. They said "Feel free to call John at Addco (800) 338-7015. He can walk you through it. Make sure you're installing the bar with the weight on the car's tires." I've put in a call, and will update when I get a call back.

I received my V.P. swaybar today, and it doesn't really fit either. The problem is exacerbated by the fact the bar has more than one bend per side. This makes it way to wide, and it also seems to be 1.5 to 2" short per side.

I've never heard of a mechanic that didn't want to do what his customer wanted to pay him to do. Do like they said. Get the Sheriff and a rollback. And when you get your car back bring it to me (yeah, Texas isn't close, I know) and I'll make the damned thing pink with green interior....if...

I would think you would need to change the idler arm to one that matched the pitman for it to work properly

I have a Victory Performance sway bar on the way. Supposed to be here Tuesday. So I'll have something to add after I install it.

Can't see a whole spring, but it doesn't look like there is as much arch as the springs I just got for the Duster

Thanks for the response. I finally got some MOOG shackle bushings. THEN I had to deal with the fact the front bushings had the sleeve for a larger than stock bolt. So I made a trip to Lowes and got Grade 8 stuff, reamed the mounts, and all is well. The leafs I got also allowed me to ditch the...

Yeah. If you have all the parts, it's an easy swap

You can find everything online. Rotors and calipers can be had for under $100 each

Dunno. But they make billet wheels and they do just fine....as long as you avoid potholes

Whatever you do, do NOT mar the torsion bar. No nicks, no scars. DON'T use vicegrips unless you grind all the teeth out. If you mar the bar, you've created a fracture point. The can and might well break there

Well I dunno. Some say there is a difference. I can't argue, cause I don't know A bodies all that well. But I ordered the ones for drums and they seem to fit ok. Now if I could only get some moron in a parts store to believe me when I tell them that shackle bushings ARE available and they need...

Gonna make a S.W.A.G. that it had drums, partly because of the numbers on what's there, and partly because it was originally a /6 (not to say a /6 COULDN'T have had discs) Thanks to all. I'm making a run to AZ to plunk down some cash so they can order them. Hate them, but they were FIFTY...

No, but they have a 1784-K and 1785-K on them

The LBJ's aren't a Wilwood piece. Neither are the spindles. Problem is I want to get this back together so I can get out in it this weekend, but I don't know which part would be right. The fender tag is gone also, so no help there.

The lower balljoints are shot on "IT" and I'm not sure what to get for a replacement. It has Wilwood brakes on it and can only GUESS it originally had drums. But there is a different listing for the LBJ for disc and for drums. What's the difference? Can I tell by looking at them? Thanks

And don't forget the torsion bars....

You're asking about how the lower arm should be oriented relative to the K frame? I wouldn't tighten it up till I had the K back in the car, and plugged the torsion bar back in to the LCA so that it has no twist to it. IF you tighten the LCA in the K before you install the Tbars, you might have...

67 GTX, is that a Tidewater giveaway car?

Post a pic

Always remember and never forget If you have to remove your T bars, DON'T nick or scar them (don't use vice grips) You make a mark, you've just made a fracture point

You going to narrow it?

I would be hard pressed to buy anything from CAP, since they have not responded publicly (that I've seen) to the issue of "warping during powder coating" I seriously doubt that is possible. But the guy had an issue not once, but twice. And the public perception is CAP won't make it right. So...