Search results for query: *

Gotcha, thought you said you needed motor mounts. Carry on then! :burnout:

Yes, it's the complete Schumacher kit.

Depending on what you decide -- I have a new in the box (never opened) /6 to 318 Schumacher conversion mount set I'd sell you for less than whatever they're charging now. PM me if interested. I'm not home now, but will be in a couple days, could pull them out.

Wow. Just... wow.

Well that could change things, that wasn't in the first post :)

I read the first post. I'm focusing in on the "no money" part. A pair of 302 heads could probably be had for about $50, bolt them on and go. This would almost positively be cheaper than the head work you're suggesting (even if he had to pay more for the 302s, and if I'm understanding what you're...

I agree some bigger valves in those heads may be better, but I suggested 302's mostly because he mentioned cheap, if he could find some real cheap, plus should bring compression up a bit. Not disagreeing with either of the above 2 comments, just another way of looking at it, and potentially an...

Why not try it with the cam that's in it first... then you can compare (I'm assuming this is an engine you haven't run yourself before?). You can always swap it out later. That's almost exactly like my 318 build except I have the 302 closed chamber heads and it was running somewhere in the 13's...

I would check your rear brakes. I would expect that a power front disc brake car would probably have 10" drums on back, not 9". Some of the parts in those kits are the same 9" or 10" but some are different.

All good points made by dano and 71340. I was assuming only exactly what you said and nothing more at all, just a good steel crank. But how much it's been machined does affect value or desirability. At .060, I'd start to be concerned, but at .035 you're fine, assuming you can get the pistons you...

Sorry, I forgot to answer the question. Prices vary all over the board, especially by location, but I'd put that at about $400-$500 for the core block, plus add $2-3 hundred for it being magged and tanked (with paperwork) with the steel crank (make sure it's a steel crank), so anywhere between...

Good call. The casting year could be '67, but yes, '68 was first model year. Checking the #s will confirm what it is either way.

Sorry, just trying to help. I didn't gather from your first post that you didn't have access to the engine.

Take off the valve covers and look for the casting numbers. That will tell the story. Do them both, because there's no guarantee they're a matched pair.

I should have said, I buy all my header bolts from the hardware store. Can't get the gaskets there of course!

I use allen head ones for all but "those" hard ones (you know the ones), for which I use regular (hex head) bolts and it's easy to get an open-end wrench on. But for the frontmost and rearmost on each side, I put in studs. You can seal them up good (water passages), but also it makes install so...

Lots of 340 cars made with open rears. Not unusual at all. Check the fender tag or build sheet to see what it came with, if you have one of those. It's not like the car is a nice survivor or anything, so sure, tear it up, what the heck.

Looks like a great starting point to me! If you have time, start a build thread to show your progress (with whatever you do) and put a link to it from this thread so we don't miss it. Alternatively, I know you didn't ask, but you could very possibly be money ahead to sell this car as-is to...

Agree, you can never have enough 340's. Would love to see this '69 Swinger 340 stay a 340, but hey...!

A 340 car in '69 would not be an "H code" car, it would be a P code. H in '69 was 383. The 340 didn't become P until '70. Still, I agree, an original factory numbers matching Hi-Po car is best left with the original power plant. But, it's his car. Every one that's customized just makes mine...

If it's free, I would go with the LD340 (not that it's a bad manifold even if it wasn't free). Before I saw that, I was actually going to post that if you still have the stock factory 340 manifold, I'd use that before spending more on an AirGap. Will the AirGap perform better? Probably, sure...

Yikes... probably not $2000 unless it's documented and pretty nice, fairly fresh, good running. Unless there's something really wrong, almost positively over $600 though, around here at least.

I didn't know that about Pick N Pull, we don't even have them around here, never been to one. I wish we did, there's not a lot around here. I just meant if it was somewhere you could do that, or from a private seller... it's just one more thing you can easily do to reduce any fears about getting...

If you go look at a Magnum (or anything), bring a battery and compression tester (and maybe a starter if they remove it) to the yard with you and bump it over to test compression before you even hand over the money or put it in your truck. At least you can test that much even if it's out of the...

Sure it's not the flexplate or something like that? Not engine-related?

Cool, thanks. I was figuring my cast ones would be fine if I kept it conservative.

Are those truck pistons cast or forged? I have a 318 setup almost exactly like yours. I was told 9.0 compression, not confirmed. I was thinking it would be about nice for a small nitrous setup, but it currently has cast pistons.

I wonder how much it would cost to skip the polishing and balance the rotating assembly instead. I'm not an expert, but from what I have learned, I'd rather put my money in that and skip polishing for a street car.

I would use the 318. Of course the pistons are aluminum. :)

It's your car, so not being critical of whatever you decide, but to me, either option seems like an overreaction. I read the whole thread just now, and as previously suggested, I would, in this order: 1) Get it tuned up by a Mopar guy who knows what you're after, and 2) put on quieter mufflers...