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Thanks Guys

I have a bar here that I had powdercoated. I think I removed it from a 72 Dart with disk brakes and a V*. How do I tell for sure? Is there a measurement for the drop to clear the pan? Any ideas?

I have never seen studs and nuts. That would make it very hard to remove, I would think.

On the HAMB a guy built a 65 Barracuda gasser, drove it in the power tour. I would read his thread for sure. Here is a link to Bangshift version. https://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum/bangshift/project-cars-update/1184814-65-barracuda-funny-car

If one has a S&M Sticker on it, I want it!

Odd numbers are always left side, even on right.

I guess you could, old extended shackles were just straight bar stock. I think the stock length is around 2-3 inches eye to eye. But..... I would just buy a new set from Mancini or PST with new rubber or poly parts. Unless you are cost limited.

Steering wheel? Check Speedway Motors.

Use the extenders on the top, no one sees them and they work.

If you re-arch you lose the 002 and 003 design, launch the car and plant the tire. I think a few tweeks and you will be happy with the stance. Ride might not be great, it's a drag spring. I like the look under your car, nice work!

You know that is the way Mopar designed them right, pre loaded on the right for drag racing. I would use the upper hole first and once you adjust the front T-bars it will be almost level. That is how I how do it.

Looks like you needed to locate the tabs on an angle away from the strut rods. Not sure how to fix what you have now.

not sure how you got it out, but yes the adjuster needs to be all the way out, loose. Don't force it, make sure it's all clean and no junk in the hex socket, trans cross member also.

I had the EXACT problem. Did not notice it till after I got them both powdercoated. Pass side was way twisted. I assume the car I got them off had been in an accident. I could not get it into my front mounts. I got another one and it was fine.

Word of caution on a click wrench. My Craftsman , years ago, broke a couple of 440 head bolts when it was new. I took it to work, we had a Cal Lab, it was 23 lbs high at the setting of 70. They took the lead out of the end, adjusted the mechanism and resealed it. Now I check it every time I use...

Thanks for the help. I made a tool to draw the bushings in. Worked perfect. I used lock washers and nuts with an impact to get the Bump Stops tight.

The bolt/stud is turning IN the rubber, I can hold the rubber all day long and it won't tighten up. I could try the plain nut and lock washer but the rubber still might turn because there is no positive connection from the bolt/stud to the rubber part. Is that clearer? I don't know the part...

I have the same, so just work them in with a driver on the edges?

Ok dry, how?

I need a set of correct lower control arm bump stop bumpers. I have a set I wasted money on that have no way of getting them tight. They need the slotted studs that drop into the slots. I don't want poly if I can help it. And how do you guys draw the strut rod bushings into the K Frame? I have...

so where is the green brick today?

I am pretty sure I got my from Richard E-burger on ebay. Do a search and if you can't find him, send me an PM.

That sounds like a good idea, Thanks!

the fsm lists a special tool and I assume it does as you said, it presses on the bushing not just the shaft. Thanks

I need 1 strut rod for 72 up. It's measures 21 and 1/2 inches end to end. Let me know how much you want shipped to 76065 Texas. Thanks Folks, I got the strut rod! Thanks FABO! I have a 62 and 67 FSM, and both say install LCA Bushing and shaft at the same time. I thought I saw here to install...

I agree with you. Bent. Maybe before you got the car. I would replace it. Too bad, looks real clean!

My 62 Lancer were bare metal. No traces of paint or preservative. I have a 76 Dart LBP Disk set up and they look the same. Just rusty metal. I am going to powdercoat them black.

I worked with an old Chrysler guy, Dave Lewis AKA Big Red, in the mid 70's. I had a 70 Challenger TA with a 440 and a 4 speed. After cutting the driveshaft in half Dave helped me with my rear setup. We got rid of the snubber completely, put 002 and 003 springs in with the longer front spring...

Don't forget the "Why did my 7 1/4 rear blow up after I added SS springs?" thread. Not busting your chops man. This is the right place for good information. Those springs will make your car hook and if you have some good tires your rear might not last. The springs don't really care what rear...

Ah yes, Frank Mitchell. Man that guy has a lot of stuff! I appreciate the info, that part looks great, compared to what I have left.