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As Dave said, direct replacement. And I'm sure glad to hear your car quit running away from home. :)

Me too. :supz:

"The manufacture said I am not maintaining them properly"........................ Kind of negates the name Maintenance Free Battery, doesn't it. :) Oh, and I can't help you with the Odyssey Charger, but I will be checking back to see what others have to say about it.

Looking good. It's a lot of work, but as Keith said, it will probably be a lot better without those bulkhead connectors.

Will it start if you jump it across the solenoid?

Pull the one off your 318 and try it on Vicky, then you'll know for sure before laying out any cash. :)

If it's spitting gas out of the carb, or backfiring when you try to start it, chances are you have the distributor installed 180* out. Did you bring the # 1 piston up to top dead center on compression stroke before installing the distributor? If not, remove the spark plug on cylinder # 1, and...

I just removed the wire from the left post of the ammeter and moved it over to the right post. Now both wires are on the right post and the ammeter is bypassed. Problem solved.

Do yourself and you car a favor and bypass that old amp guage. It's a fire hazard waiting for a place to happen. A quick and easy test for now, take the left connector wire off the amp guage and move it over and connect it on the right terminal with the existing wire - ie, both on the right...

What did you feed it for breakfast? :)

Bypass that ammeter and your problem will most likely dissapear.

The ammeter is a possible fire source, replace it with a voltmeter. Once you open up the bulkhead connectors, inspect them very closely for burned areas on the case itself, as well as signs of arcing. If there's a problem, it should be quite evident. Also, sometimes the spade type connectors...

The two first things I would do in your case are to check the wiring at the bulkhead connector, and bypass the Ammeter. I had more electrical gremlins with my 66 than I care to remember until I did those two things. For a quick and dirty bypass on the Ammeter, unhook the battery, take the hot...

As Chuck said, check the neutral safety switch, because it sounds suspiciously like it isn't connected or working.

BJS is giving some good advice here. GET RID OF THE AMMETERS!! They are a potential fire hazard and even if they don't burn your car to the ground, they can and eventually will cause all kinds of other electrical gremlins. Been there, done that.

Way to go Scott! That site of yours is a great resource. Kudos.

Check all of your bulbs first, then check the flasher unit itself. When you activate the turn signal arm you should be able to hear the flasher unit clicking. If not, that is probably where your problem starts.

Glad you found it. Those things can be a real PITA to troubleshoot sometimes.

Do you still have the original wiring running through the factory ammeter? If so, that's one of the first places to start checking. Also, the firewall wiring connectors are a good second choice for problems of this nature. The big red wire in the upper right corner of the one firewall connector...

You've got a dead short somewhere in the circuit. Start testing wires until you find the one which is shorting out because it may or may not be in the headlight switch itself. Which circuit does your #5 fuse control?

That looks pretty nice Dave. And damned nice of your son to buy it for you - that rocks. :)

Do you still have the original ammeter hooked up as it was from the factory? These things can cause all kinds of problems when they fail. For a quick check, you can move the left side wire and put it on the right side post with the existing wire so the ammeter is bypassed but you still have...

You might also check to ensure the headlight switch is not loose at the dash. If it loosens off it can cause the pull rod to not come out far enough to actually turn on the headlights, although the parking lights will usually come on.

Are you sure that aftermarket guage is an Ampmeter and not a voltmeter? Most people would replace the original dash Ampmeter with a voltmeter. O.K. doesn't really matter. :) Originally, the main power wire came through the firewall block and went to the left side of the original ammeter in the...

Cool your jets there son! :) A very large percentage of these old A bodies were re-wired precisely because the original dash guage didn't work correctly and would cause a no-start situation. A lot of them caused under dash burn outs and all kinds of havoc. I ran into the same problem with my...

19 years, that's pretty good. My Vart sat for about 12 I believe, and before I put it in the shop for the current resto, I checked the oil, made sure it would turn over by hand, poured a little fresh gas in the AFB, shorted across with a screwdriver, and VROOMMM. I liked the short burst of...

Sure sounds great when that sucker fires up after you've been chasing a no-start gremlin, doesn't it? Way to go. :)

No one seems to want to tackle this one, so I'll give it a shot for you. :) What carb are you running on that motor? My first thought is that the gas is evaporating out of you carb after sitting for a while. Maybe try priming it with a little fuel after it's been sitting for a while and see...

Excellent discussion guys. It covers a lot of areas that most of us non-electrical types never even think of when we are attempting to upgrade our old Mopars. Food for thought!!

That's the old pepper!! Logic tree diagnosis and a logical, well thought out fix. Nothiing to it!! :)