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Mine lined up with the marks on the cover. I went through the trouble to degree it and it was dead on.

It's very easy to overthink this stuff. For your engine, I would run plain old Rotella T 15w40 and not ever worry about an oil related engine failure. Are there better oils out there? Sure there are, but Rotella is a dang good lol too. Ofher benefits are its price ($12-14 per gallon) and you...

I wouldn't have any issues running 450whp on stock internals. That motor should easily handle that. Stock SBM internals aren't weak, guys have been spinning them high rpms and with power adders for decades. They're proven. Get a good tuneup in it and it'll live a long life at 450whp.

I don't know about you guys, but if I saw a 408 stroker or blown 360 and it only made 400whp I'd be none too impressed. Not trying to insult anybody, but a well thought out 360 would meet that goal easily, IMO. How about a stock stroke 360 in the 10-10.5:1 compression range, roller cam upgrade...

A torque strap with stock type mounts may also work for you. Even with the strap/rod holding the drivers side down the stock mounts still absorb vibrations like the strap isn't there.

Followed by a serious headache from the stuff they put in it to deter abuse from inhalation.

The stock internals are plenty strong to take a 150 shot for years of racing. If you're worried about it just run 100. IMO, a 50 shot isn't even worth the effort. Of course with any nitrous system you must make sure the fuel system is adequate and be able to control timing. When in doubt...

My group of friends use Blaine's Motor Supply in Dallas, Tx. One friend had three engines done last year. Two are currently running and the other is still sitting for a project (all 360 magnums). Another just bought a 350 for his 95 Chevy Solverado he's building and has been up and running...

On my old 360 I lost 1.5 tenths by switching from an Eddy Airgap to an M1 single plane. No other changes. Same mph, but the quickest I could ever get it to run was 1.5 tenths slower than the best pass with the Airgap. The torque loss was also very noticeable during street driving. Going with...

If you haven't picked one up yet, look for one from a 98-older 5.2 Dakota. Technically the 02 starter will bolt up, but in 1999 they started using a harness plug for the solenoid wire. The 98-older version still used a stud and that would simplify your installation. If you go onto Oreilly or...

I used to use carb plates but have switched to using one of these. Being able to move weight back and forth to level or angle the engine to stab in is much easier. It attaches with bolts on the heads. Also, I cut the angles off the brackets because I don't use them and they sometimes get in...

When you use hard block it eliminates the engine coolant's ability to regulate the oil temp. I'd imagine a nice external oil cooler and oil temp gauge would solve your problem without removing the hard block.

If it's down to a bare block just pull all the frost plugs and get after it with a pressure washer. If you make it back in the house and are only halfway soaked then you didn't do it right, lol.

LA plugs that use the larger 13/16" socket don't fit magnum heads.

I ran NGK ZFR6F in my magnum. I personally prefer NGK plugs because I find them easier to read. Magnum engines used two different heat range plugs over the years. Earlier engines used a hotter plug (Autolite 3924, NGK FR4, Champion RC12YC, etc) but switched to a colder plug in around 97-98...

There are a lot of smart people here on FABO, but another great site for magnum engines is www.racemagnum.com. It's mainly Dodge Dakota guys but as far as a magnum engine goes, there isn't a better source, IMO.

About 200 rpm

When you say it only does it when you first start driving, do you mean when you first start the car and it is cold? Like you crank it up in the morning, leave the house, stop at a stop sign, then it pops as you give it gas to go again? Then once the motor warms up a bit it doesn't do it...

I ran Rotella 5w-40 synthetic in my magnum.

Go back to Autozone (or Oreilly, Advanced, Napa, etc) and ask for an early-mid 90's Dakota starter. It's a gear reduction starter and MUCH smaller than the old type mopar starters.

The 7.3 powerstroke block isn't sleeved.

The difference, power wise, between the 650 and 750 would be minimal. According to my calculations (cu/in x rpm x .9 / 2820), using a 6500 rpm redline, it comes out to right about 705 cfm, so you're right in the middle. Here's how I'm looking at it. If you're planning on buying a carb without...

Another vote for the double pumper. How high do you rev it?

I'd try reusing your stock radiator with the stock shroud and mechanical fan before buying anything new. If there's not a problem, there's no need to fix it.

All 360 Magnums are external balance. Your year should come with the balance weight on the flex plate so you would use a neutral balance converter.

I think the redline on the Crower cam is a misprint. 5200 rpm seems more like it. That said, those cams aren't really that close. I went to Crower's site to find a more comparable cam and didn't see anything I like better than the Comp cam you have listed. It's a very good street cam and...

That's an excellent carb choice. Mechanical secondaries work great with manual transmissions and automatics with high stall torque converters.

Yeah it's the Performer RPM, but it's generally just called the airgap, p#7577. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-7577 Fitment wise, it bolts onto the motor just like the other. The only real differences would be things like thermostat housing, coolant fitting locations, etc, but you can...

Is there a gap around the sides, or over the top, of the radiator to allow air to bypass going through the core? If so, sealing up those areas can help. If air can find a way to go around the radiator it will, you have to force it through the core. This is especially true with thick aluminum...

Does it have the Mopar M1 single plane intake on it? If so, ditch it for an Edelbrock Airgap. The M1 kills the midrange power while the Edelbrock will boost the midrange and make as much (or possibly more) power at high rpms. I personally experienced this with my old 360 magnum. What carb is...