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A couple years ago when my car still had the 360 I was going to do a turbo setup so I swapped my RPM Airgap for an M1 single plane. Big mistake. The car lost 3 tenths in the 1/4 mile I could never recover, no matter what kind of tuning I did. The loss of torque was noticeable even on the...

I've been keeping an eye on this thread because the system looks promising. It would be a good option for the Valian wagon. While searching around, comparing to other systems, I stumbled on this. I wonder if they sold out to Holley, because it's the same exact thing...

Large jet sizes are an indicator the carb is too big. If you're way above what the carb came with originally (factory jetting) then the carb you have is already a little big. Not saying you can't run a 750, but I'd stick with a vacuum secondary unit since they tend to "size" themselves to the...

Well that would have been helpful to know, haha. I let my friend wire it up while I messed with the O2 sensor, and he was reinstalling the dash bezel by the time I was done.

I've been running the AEM UEGO in my car since 2011 and have been more than pleased. I like that the sensor never needs calibration. Even with the AEM if you think the sensor is bad you can test it easily to make sure it's reading correctly. It's a simple test using a rag soaked in brake...

Also interested in hearing how it runs on e85.

Appreciate it.:glasses7:

Does anyone know the cfm rating of the throttle bodies? Looking at the pictures and videos it looks fairly large, but I haven't seen anything in any literature I've seen. It looks like an interesting system. I'm tempted to give it a shot. If it works I can sell my carb stuff and almost pay...

Looks overtimed with a rich idle to me. How long did it idle before you shut it off? What's the timing set at? Do you know the initial and total numbers? Are you running the vacuum advance? Also, if you're going to be attempting to read plugs I find it's easier to read NGK plugs due to...

Uhhhh, yeah, that would be never. No way I can run with those guys. The Dung Beetle would probably gap me.

The switch from an AG to M1sp netted me a loss of 2 tenths, with all the loss happening in the 60 ft. Mph was the same. I tried everything I could think of (jetting, timing, pump shot, stall rpm, everything) and could never overcome the torque loss. The only reason for the switch was for a...

I have one of the HR series carbs and went through the same thing. You need to install smaller idle feed restrictors. The adjustment screws are still turned in about 1/2 turn out but the smaller idle feed restrictors really helped. As others have mentioned, more timing helps idle. 18-20...

Those are standard straight leg boosters, nothing wrong with them at all. If you're looking to increase the flow then consider cutting off the choke horn. If you only drive the car in decent weather you don't need a choke anyway. If you take your time and contour the edges it can come out...

An inexpensive electrical sender gauge would put this problem to bed. Something like this Autometer would work just fine. It uses a 1/8 npt sensor. http://m.summitracing.com/parts/atm-1436 If you're looking to not spend quite as much there's a Stuart Warner gauge that's available for $20...

Use a brass "Tee" fitting, one male and 2 female threads. Screw the fitting into the manifold, attach the heater hose to the side and the temp probe at the top. Can't attach a pic with my ipad but here is an ebay ad showing what I'm talking about. You may be able to find it locally...

Here's how I did mine. It's modeled after efi setups where the regulator is installed after the fuel rail. I'm also running a Walbro 255 lph pump.

No boost port.

I'm using this regulator and have had no issues.................. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pfs-10653/overview/ (3 in/out ports, 1 return port, gauge port) but I know a couple guys who have tried this one as a cheaper alternative with good results...

Yes, lose the liquid filled gauge.

Sounds like your problem is different than mine. Fuel pressure was all over the place when it got hot in the engine bay. If you're just seeing a higher reading at warm temps it may be your gauge, as long as it's a consistent rise. Liquid filled gauges are well known for showing false readings...

Yup, fuel pressure is rock solid. I used to have it mounted before the carb ( fuel pump to the fuel pressure regulator (FPR), then "Tee'd" off to the carb, with return), but found that I was having some percolation issues in the line between the FPR and carb that caused irregular fuel...

I know it's not exactly the same (in-tank vs rail mount) but you can run a pump intended for efi with a carb no problem. The pump in my car is a Walbro 255lph (forgot the p# but it's the "high pressure" one turbo imports use) and the setup is 3/8" (-6 AN) feed/return lines with the regulator...

Empty the bowl and fill them through the vent with barryman b12 or seafoam. Let it sit for a half day or so and fire it up. You may need to tap the bowl to release the float, but I've done this many times with vehicles that have sat for 5+ years. Works like a champ.

Ok, so you set your idle mixture to maximum vacuum, if I read that correctly. Just as an experiment, try turning the idle screws out to 1.5 turns and go for a drive to see if that does anything. Does the ~2200 rpm surge get better, and does taking off lightly from a stop seem to improve...

Let me approach this from a different angle. You keep jetting it up because you get a surge at light throttle cruise, but adding jet doesn't do anything. Would the rpm's happen to be in the 1800-2200 range when it happens? Also, as for the stumble, does it occur when leaving a stop light...

What kind of spacer exactly? Leave the floats where they are unless the fuel level is too high.

Sounds like heat soak, and the fuel is boiling out. Try an insulated carb gasket (Edelbrock part number 9265 or 9266 if you have a square bore carb) before thinking about spending money on a new carb.

I run the AEM in my car and it's been great. After starting the car the sensor takes about 30 seconds to fully warm up ( reads leaner than it should ) but after that it's good to go.

I run the AEM UEGO wideband, works like a champ. Easily one of the best things I've bought to help me understand carb tuning.

READ MY LIPS, er, text..........Don't put too much faith in those carb calculators. I defended my decision to buy my QFT 650dp for months before finally deciding to try a Proform mainbody (830 cfm) that Rob (Crackedback) loaned me. With the 650 I ran a best of 7.78 @ 86 (calculated to 12.30's...