Search results for query: *

Yea I posted before realizing that 2-dr post stipulation.... lol sorry. Generally, I pay better attention than that. If your question/s were directed at me you're more than welcome to save them, and yes, it is a SBP car

Ill check for proper engagement. That would be a big pile of suck to fix...... The only thing that comes to mind is a shim of some type to go in the housing and lift the cable up out of the housing a bit?

Ignore that thing in the background lol.

OK, so little to my surprise, lubing the cable had absolutely zero effect. I used a lithium grease as suggested by all the WD-40 nay sayers and it had the same exact effect. Same as last time, I pulled and cleaned the cable, lubed the housing and re installed. No apparent binding, the cable goes...

Although I love the classic look you speak of, I would go back to poverty caps long before I would deal with a mag wheel. Hard to clean, porous, and little to no shine remind me why modern wheels are so much better than the old stuff. I do really like the look of the steelies with hub covers...

This may or may not help, but I have SBP on my 66, and used a 4"BS 15x7 wheels on all four corners. They fit great with only a little rubbing on the rear thanks to worn leafs, technically not the wheels fault. I went with 225/60's

I'll get under the dash and see what I have going on. I removed and replaced the cluster and the noise just showed up. I dont know how I would have caused a bind. I will check anyhow though. The WD-40 is not a great cable lube, I realize, but even to that end, it should have at least made a...

Greetings. I started my '66 the other day to shake the cob webs out, and give it a bath which it sorely needed. I drove it around to get the fluid temps up to normal operating temp and I was reminded of an annoying speedometer noise this car has of which I am not sure how to fix. Last...

I put Coys wheels on my '66 and couldn't be happier. Excellent wheel so far. I drive it pretty regularly. This is not a great pic but it should give you the general idea

This looks to be the hella lights. From the front you can't even see the difference from stock.

Here's a more current pic from today. I just installed a holley 2300 carburetor and it runs better than I've ever seen it. I'm really digging it.

The part on the left is what your relay should look like. Located right near the bulkhead. What you have pictured looks to me more like a power distribution stud that was added at some point in its life. The '65 should be identical to my '66 pictured here. There HAS to be a relay somewhere.

Yes they are. They look just like your current glass headlight but they take the 9003/H4 replaceable bulb, which is a good bit brighter. From what Ive been reading, they have the best light output and dont look different from stock. I see the ebay versions that are cheaper but I dont like the...

Lately, I've managed to wire in a 120a alternator and a SS regulator, and OMG dis that make all the difference in the world. Found a new alternator for $45 on rock auto which is a steal to say the least. Voltage is rock solid at 14-14.3, whether there is nothing on, or everything in the car...

Hey guys, Recently I have taken on my 66 Dart /6 head on with the wiring changes that these cars require after many years in service. This included; Ammeter bypass - I used the MAD method, which wires the ammeter wires (and the welded splice) in parallel, making the starter solenoid the...

Looks like you have this well figured out but i figured i would throw my $.02. I did the dual M/C conversion on my 66. I stayed drums though because all i wanted was a safer setup than the single m/c setup. I used www.inlinetube.com and they actually sell the conversion kit with valve to...

Im actually surprised he even knew what a Falcon was. Apparently he doesnt know what one looks like though as i cant see any resemblance to any of the Falcons models

***crickets**** :)

Beautiful, thanks bill. So im guessing that the rod and standoffs can come from anything 75 & down? Ill have a look at your posts and see whatya working with:-)

i have seen a few people in the past who have pulled a random pull a part booster from a 90 something sebring (for arguments sake) and using it on the early a. My question is; If i do this, what early a parts am i going to need for the install? Inside brackets? Pushrod? Is there a...

Thank you! Ive been driving it to work everyday since my recent update. Car is behaving very well. Seems to get a lot of looks. It rides very smooth and drives so well. Going to change the oil tomorrow and adjust the brake shoes. Pedal feels a bit wierd, a mix of spongy and excess travel. I...

Thank you very much fellas. It was time to do something to it rather than letting it sit out in the yard waiting for the rot to set in. 66dergedurp, dont mind you asking one bit :-) I went 15x7" on the front and rear with a 4" backspace. Tires are 205/60front with 225/60rear

OK, time for an update. Over the Past few months I have been working on a number of the cars needs. Brakes - All new Brake hoses, wheel cylinders, one new hub, and 2 new front brake drums. Then I took care of the Master cylinder. I converted it over to a dual reservoir and replaced the tee at...

flathead and hammer is plenty good imo. They come out rather easy

There are plenty, but even they are starting to dry up. My '66 actually rubs just a little bit, but the rear end is saggy. For about another week that is.

I run 15x7 on all 4's. Bone stock

604- now that you say that, yea, i can see that the front end is indeed up. still like the stance though, and the 65's are my favorite. Had one when i first got my license. Wish I still had it even though it was rough as hell Johnny - I did a google search on that company, and granted, i didnt...

Plyscamp - Disconnect the temp sending unit, and then put it's wire to a source of ground (key on, engine off). Have someone watch the gauge. If the wire and gauge is good, then the gauge will sweep one way when you ground it, and sweep in the other direction when you unground. If it sweeps...

Sure, I would ground the wire and see if the gauge moves, I'm pretty sure that it can be tested the same way as the fuel gauge.

The gauge doesn't read at all. What I have done so far is. With the key in the run position and the engine not running, I disconnected the wire from the sender and grounded it. The gauged moved promptly toward full, and dropped back down when I removed it. So I figure the wire and the gauge are...