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The more the better! Especially if your battery is in the trunk!

Thanks much guys. I found an original Chrysler ignition box. Going to give it a try tomorrow. Now I have to figure what wires go to the coil on original wiring. Lost all my books. Searching the net.

Here's what I got guys. Drove to a show and noticed that the tach would jump at times( about a couple hundred rpm's). Not to bad at first, then more so. Now it misses at higher rpm's under a load. It will idle and rev up all day with no load on it. what do you guys think? The MSD box was built...

The wiring for the rear of the car should all run down the left side. Just inside the left side sill plate. under the carpet edge. It will part off as it go's back for the different options. Then back to the lights and fuel sender. Is that what you are looking for?

An old single filament bulb works great. A tail light or backup light with a socket is best. That's what I used when I was working. Put a couple long leads on it with a gator style clip on one end and a probe style on the other.

I've tried all the different plugs. Been through Champions, AC(the worst), NGK and finally went to Autolites. I was going through 2 sets a season till i got the Autolites. I've had the Autolites in now for about 5 years. No fouling. That was my main problem. I think i will put in a new set...

I went off half cocked on that one. For some reason I didn't see it. Yeah, I would have to say the voltage reg. or a ground problem?

Nows the battery? If you have a battery going out. It will keep calling to the regulator for more.

I picked these up a couple years back. At a major swap meet here in Wisconsin. H-3 or 4 cant remember witch. Were only $35.00 for the set.

Thats where I have my switch for my exhaust cutouts. Never thought of posting pics of it. Guess I should have. When I had the NOS on the car I had the switch for that in the Cig lighter.

Had the same thing with mine about 5 years ago. Just seen the post or I would of let you know. Sorry I'm late for the party!

I,ve had the same dizzy cap on mine for 4-5 years. I belive it's a NAPA cap and rotor. Has a vent built in. No problems. I'd stay away from those Wells brand stuff. Get a good one from a major store. Those chain stores like Autozone, Checkers, O'Reily's get a cheap manufacture to build for them.

They are constant power coming in. I would start looking for a blown fuseable link to start with. Take a test light and check all the feeds first. They all come off the starter relay under the hood if I recall right.

Yes. Both the same. There should be a pig tail in the dash harness near the ash trat area. I think it is a 90' degree end(elbow). Yellow wire if I recall.

I had a 74 Valiant that did the same thing. Idle all day. But it wouldn't rev up. Cleaned up the ground and it ran perfect. The Orange box is heating up because of the bad ground. Run an extra ground from the box to ground. Just for safety sake.

If you are running the turn signal power and the running lites power both to the side markers. You need a one way diode in line. Kind of like the boxes for the old trailer lights. to run the turn signals and the brake lites together. Not to sure how you should set it up though. Just my 2...

There are a few different ones out there. Search for hidden antenna's My brother put one in that went under the dash. I don't know the brand?

I have these H-4 style bulbs in the Duster. They seem to work pretty good. They are also legal. Bolt right in and use the seal beam connector.

I agree with Redfish. You got the wire for thr guage grounding out somewhere. You'll go back and look. Then say; how did I miss that.

I'd go and lube it up first. Easy enough done. Pull it off the speedo head. Pull out the cable and give it a light coat of light grease. Stop about a foot and a half from the top end. than it wont come out the end a get all over the speedo head. Might be all it needs.

Find out what kit they used on the Chop/Cut/Rebuild Duster. I thought they put power windows in it.

Keep looking. I found a set at a local show for around 40-45 bucks. Didn't really notice that much difference in light. But I had the first sealed beam halogen in there all ready. I went for the looks. Kind of cleans up the front. Only pic I have with them in there. Not the best.

Our prayers go out to you and your family.:angel7:

It depends on the vehicle. Some more grounds can't hurt. I tell everyone when the put the battery in the trunk. The more grounds the merrier. It helps for all the circits to prevent overloading.

If it stops where ever and when ever you hit the switch. I would say yes. I have the same set up on the Duster, but the stuff is all orignal and haven't had a problem yet. When I worked at a GM dealership back in the 70's we had the same problems on some 2 speed motors. There isn't much...

Yeah he could lube it up. But if it go's out again he would be beating himself up for not changing it. I would put in a new mini starter. Very reasonable at the part stores. Remember they are all the same. A 95 Dakota spins over my Duster.

If you can, take the wires off at the starter. After you disconnect the battery. Then hook up the battery making sure the main power wire won't ground on some thing. Take a test light and check power at both termanls. You should only have power on the small wire when crancking it. If...

I bought a starter for a 95 Dakota. 318 or 360 the same. It's on the Duster. 71 340 block and trans. I think it will work.

Got mine from the local Auto Value store here. Cost about $80.00 Don't go buying one of those expensive ones. Summit or Jegs.

Check the battery. Make sure it's not going bad. It will cause the system to overcharge also. Good luck.