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Interesting read.

Well back when I was first trying the SS springs the engine had a Crane fireball cam, single plane intake and roads lifters. Don't know actual Hp. Later when car was restored the engine was close to stock and in this state with the SS springs an adjustable snubber I tried the longer travel...

You know it took me years to figure out what was going on. I'm pretty sure I had an adjustable snubber when I had the SS springs on. it still wrapped. It wraps then the car moves and the springs snap back so you would get what in the car felt like clutch chatter but it would shake the whole...

Years ago I tried SS springs for my spring wrap problem on my 67 GTS with a manual trans thinking it may help. In my case I had no difference from the original springs. Stock snubber was not doing it's job even after addressing that still had what felt like clutch chatter but was spring wrap...

I've had a clunk in the steering for a long time. Only does it when you are doing slow parking type steering not driving down the road. Sound like it's inside the car and you can feel it in the steering wheel. Manual steering. It's infrequent so I've never really look for it but the other...

So I picked up four Monroes and installed them this weekend. Rides ok not harsh even though they are gas charged. Must me a low pressure gas charge since they are not as hard to compress as some others I have. It does feel different than the Koni's but after a short cruise I can't put my...

I assume they are gas shocks. Trying not to spend the $200 a piece to rebuild the konis. If I go to another shock I should do all four. Thing is if I don't like them then I'm in the hole for the ones I don't like plus replacements. Since I went from stock shocks to the konis and didn't...

I noticed the one pair of gas shocks I had wanted to expand from the gas charge. So they will have more resistance to compression making a rougher ride in my mind. The konis never did that. Maybe I'm wrong but my truck replacement truck shocks are gas shocks and on small bumps are rougher...

My 40+ year old Koni's on the rear are starting to leak. They are standard adjustable ones and I like the way they ride but they don't make them anymore and for Koni to rebuild them is ~$200 each for the rears. So what else can I get that will ride like them and not cost so much. They...

I tried the Dart GTS with the new torsion bars and alienment on my favorite double s curve at work. It's a fun section of road in my S-Runner Tacoma. I was pleasantly surprise how well the dart handled in the s curves considering the heavy front end. Manual steering is not the best for rapid...

New ones are $35 each. I was a little neverous since they are fine thread and I was putting higher spring rate TB in. Since mine had some rust on them and it got chased off going thru the threads in the plate I figured they were now shorter threads by some amount. So I replace them with new.

Only bushing that were not replaced were the swaybar and the LCA. Poly in all the others. I didn't want to take the time to do the LCA ones while doing the torsion bars. Later project. I know most would say do it while you are doing the torsion bar. Bars were easy after I got tool. What...

I was replacing torsion bars on the 67 GTS with 1" bars, no adjustment left on driver's side on the original one. I remember seeing this post so I had them try and use these settings since I have radial tires. Well with the stock adjustments they got close on the camber and the best they could...

I got the 1" bars installed and had the alingment done. I had them get the alingment as close as possible the the suggest settings for radial tires on the older mopars. Noticable improvement in the driving and handling even thought it is a manual steering car. 1" bars didn't make the ride...

I tried this suggestion and it worked. Have to be fast when you push out the socket while sliding it on the bar since the poly shrinks back pretty quick.

The Dodge service manual doesn't say anything about loosening the lower control arm nut when replaceing torsion bars or adjusting ride height. I'm in process of changing torsion bars now. So far I just followed the manual and with the tool the bars came right out. The removal tool was worth...

I was replacing the torsion bars and figured I'd get new grease boots. They are polyurathane. I spent like 20 minutes trying to get one to go over the hex end of the torsion bar with no luck and some choice words. Has anyone gotten them to work? Maybe I'll just use the existing rubber ones.

I was curious how much the car weighed. I drove it to work today and remember to weigh it. The whole car is 3460 and the front is 1920. That web site on torsion bars was talking about the spring rate on the torsion bars being 10% of the front weigh as I recall. The 1" bars I got are 195.

Yes good point. Only has a few bolt on things and is an original 67 GTS that has been mostly restored. A few more things to do. Has build sheet and documentation from Chrysler Historical. Car was purchased from Grand Spalding Dodge aka Mr Norms. I got it from the original owner when it...

Drivers side only has about 1" or less of adjustment left and passenger side has about 1.75". Front end is low needs to come up. Now I know why the guy who aligned it didn't raise it more. He gave some other reason.

Yes that's it. Everyone suggested the 1" bars for my 67 GTS, probably because of the 383. Thanks.

Hi all, So I'm going to replace the torsion bars with 1" bars. I noticed they make braces for the lower control arm. Do I have to worry about adding these since I've increased the size of the bars or is it fine without them.

How did you get it back on the sway bar after you installed them in the bracket? I would think it would be very hard to slide them on over the ends once they are in the bracket and can't flex around. Although I like the vice idea.

I was under the car today and noticed very little space between the torsion bar an the driver's side exhaust pipe. I measured it with a feeler gauge and it's only .116" which works with the current bar. It doesn't look like 1" bars will work. Doing the math I will only have .051" of space left...

Thanks for the info. I hit them last night with some Blaster. Figured I'd start soaking everything before it's taken apart/adjusted. They are just rust colored and look in good shape. I was going to let the shop change them but considering recent bills I may have to do these myself...

Thanks for all the input. I talked to Firmfeel and they recommended the 1" like others who posted here. I ordered the 1" bars and the new boot/lock ring set. I have the polyurathane bushing somewhere since they were not installed on the torsion bars when the frontend was redone. The...

Thinking about it does have some front end body roll that makes it feel a little unstable in turns.

I found an interesting site on torsion bars in Mopars: http://arengineering.com/tech/torsion-bar-tango/ . I skimmed it but looked good. Now I need to know the front end weight of the 1967 GTS. There is a truck scale at work! Next time I drive to work i'll have to check it out.

Thanks for the Firm Feel link. I didn't think about checking them. I purchased my ferris granite disc pads from them.