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I think Abody Joe uses that shifter with a bench seat.

Here is the most informative link that I have found, not all of it will apply to the 8 3/4 but it has lots of "if you have this pattern, do this to correct it". Hope it helps. I rebuilt one rear end and had lots of fun doing it. http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Gear_Setup/

Thanks for the reply, I would like a 904 specific video or manual. I am dumb that way. It just avoids any confusion. I hate going to a trans shop because I know nothing about transmissions. I am sure transmission shops like their customers that way. From what I understand, cleanliness is...

I toasted my transmission behind my slant six. I will probably end up buying a rebuilt one for 500.00. I dont have much choice right now as I need the car to get to work. My question is this, does anyone have any experience with this manual...

Am I missing something here? I am not sure what cable is being discussed.

I installed a hurst promatic. Love it. The shifter on the column reminds me of a grocery getter. Simple install, most everything is noted by other posts. One thing I would caution, my promatic is a ratchet shifter, I would ALMOST rather have a gated shifter(believe thats the term), takes some...

I think it was Steve Detar over on bigblockdart.com who posted an article on how to check the condition of the discs while in the drop out. He used a torque wrench, good write up. Gave specs on when it was O.K. and when it should be rebuilt.

Depends on how handy you are, how much do you want to spend? Here is an article on how to shorten the housing http://www.moparts.com/Tech/Archive/race/16.html . Then you need to get shorter axles, sometimes they can be resplined, depends on which ones you have. Do you already have the rear end...

From what I have read on another mopar forum, slantsix.org, the jeep rears are alot more expensive to buy parts for, axle bearings and such. You may want to look into that before buying one to put under your car. A mopar 8 1/4 shouldnt be too hard to find.

That slide hammer should be doing it(removing it). sometimes the bearing get rusted in place.

"Yes, thats a beetle in the pan" Looks like you didnt work all the bugs out! Just kidding, sorry about your troubles.

The kickdown cable works fine. I dont have the luxury of finding one in a boneyard, up here in the Vancouver B.C. area there are not many carbureted vehicles left. The kickdown levers on ebay were going for as much as the cable.-

Have you considered a lokar kickdown cable? I got mine from ebay for 55$. Buy it now price. I think he is still selling them.

There was quite a discussion about alternate rears on slantsix.org, someone posted that the jeep rears were quite expensive to replace the bearings. It turned me off jeep rear ends. Have you considered the ford 8.8 out of an explorer?

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/howto/155_0308_mopar_rear_end_gears_set_up/

I think you will also need axle retainers.

I had no issues when i used the 8 3/4 plates on the 3 1/4 tubes. I put the u bolts on the tubes and squeezed the u bolts together by hand as I installed the plates. I had no problems at all. The holes on the plates are 3" apart, but they are bigger diameter than the u bolts, so they are not far...

The lever on the trans should be all the way back, when throttle is wide open.

My rear is from a ford explorer, the tubes are 3 1/4 dia. I used the 8 3/4 shock mount plates on it with no modification. Just kind of squeezed the u bolts in when I installed them. Or are you talking about spring mount perches? I had to use 3" dia, and grind them to fit using an angle grinder.

Kickdown lever should be all the way back at WOT.

Correct. The pumkin is taken apart, the pinion gear is removed, and shims are removed/added.

Were these new or used gears? Wont hurt to try to reset the gears.

Did it do this originally before you modified the kickdown?

Due to murphy's law, I would not cut a driveshaft until the engine and trans were in the car and a measurement was taken. I understand the time constraint, but it sucks to have to pay to do something over again.

I dont know if you could move it back 2 1/4" without the diff cover rubbing on the gas tank, wont hurt to check, just keep it in mind. You will also be changing how the shock mount studs/shocks fit together, just another thing to check out. Fortunatly you can reverse all this if it doesnt work...

I would think that you would want the kevlar to be backed by the sheetmetal, not carpeting.

I had a similar sound in the same circumstances. The pinion nut became loose. Give it a look.

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/howto/155_0308_mopar_rear_end_gears_set_up/index.html

Nitrous. Seriously, I have never seen that before.

I dont think rebuilding the rear would make it stronger, possibly putting lower gears in would make it stronger(higher number, 3.55, 4.11)but not sure how that works. Are you going to set up the gears yourself? Call around and get prices if you're not doing it yourself. Have you considered a...