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Crank pulley is the Bouchillon performance 2-groove, 6-9/16" diameter (here). I'm not changing that, as it's the correct setup for non-AC and matched with the water pump pulley (6-7/8"). Alternator is an Ultima unit from O'Reilly (here), looks like squareback I suppose? Don't know pulley...

Is that regulator in particular going to solve the issue, or is this just as sign that my current one is bad?

Hey FABO, It's been a long time since I've posted! As I've been living with no garage the past 3.5 years I hadn't gotten around to much in the way of car work--that is, until last weekend. Finally swapped out my cracked & clogged stock radiator for a shiny 3-row champion unit. While I was at...

Replaced that terminal and it did the trick - charges much faster now and no fluctuation anymore. Probably did the damage a month or two ago when I was trying to tighten up the alt. belt and it's been vibrating out of the fitting since then. Thanks for the help - glad I didn't have to get to...

Went out to check some connections. The green field wire on the alternator was very loose and pulled right out of its spade connector. So, I'll start by replacing that and then see if the problem persists. Thanks for the detailed rundown, 67. I had seen that article but it's been a while. The...

Last few trips in my car, the ammeter shows fluctuation between charging/discharging of the battery. It's not ever in the middle, just flip-flops between -15 and + something. Initially it only occurred as I let off the throttle and stopped at an intersection, lately it's discharging at cruise as...

I have this in another thread so I'll let this one die, the coil was hooked up backwards so that's fixed and the condenser there is disconnected. Thanks for the help FABO!

Question time for the coil. I have 2 wires going to the coil, plus a blue/green one that I know is from the tach. One is thicker, black with a brown tracer. The other is thinner, black with a yellow tracer. The way it's been hooked up since I got it is: Thinner black wire, tach, and condenser...

Since I don't have a radio, can I just take this off of my car?

Thanks guys. It was connected to the positive of the coil, is that right? I also discovered the tach was connected to the coil positive. That doesn't sound right...

Can someone tell me what this is, and why it's connected to the positive terminal of the coil?

Did you check the cables on the battery too? I've had a car not start before and all I needed to do was just take off and clean the negative cable and re-install it.

Well, thank you for your help everyone it looks like everything is good to go. I trickle charged, cleaned the negative battery post, and put the old ignition switch back in and it cranked and started to catch (didn't actually start it yet). So I think all my problems are fixed! The only problem...

Okay, so i looked over all the wires attached to the fused circuit that is affecting whether it starts or not and didn't see any breaks or shorts. So, I put it back together to start it and i get click but no crank. Try it again and get nothing. Disconnected the battery, connected again, click...

Here's my question now: I don't see any glaring faults in the wiring containing the start wire and the wires out of the fuse in question. Is it possible that the battery has been drained from my grounded attempts at starting and so it only has enough juice to crank when the gauges are...

Yep, at least I can drive it around again! I'm guessing there is just another short somewhere up there behind the dash again, I know that fuse is blue wires with white tracers and there are a few of them in there, so that's where I'm looking.

Okay. I used your suggestion, fixed it up, taped over the contacts. And it worked! With that fuse out, it cranks fine. So, I put the fuse in. Gauges came on, fuse did not blow, so that's good. Now I turned the key to crank it and I got a click but no cranking. Tried it again, same thing. Tried...

Thanks. Any reason you don't like butt connectors?

Took the gauge cluster out today. Problem seems to be found (I hope!). I found a spot with some crossed wires. One is thick and yellow (start) one is thick and brown (one of the ignitions?) and one is blue with a white tracer (gauge cluster). Seems like it involves all the messed up circuits to...

Sorry all, I was on vacation. The car was running when I bought it. This was around 2 months ago. It started and ran fine. It already had the 360 in it. I changed heater core and positive battery cable which had shorted out on the steering shaft and was nearly melted through. I also...

Correct. With fuse out it doesn't crank at all. With fuse in it cranks in both RUN and START. It's a Duster (73), used to be a 6-cyl (225) now it has a 360.

Okay guys, I don't have a test light but I have a multimeter so I did some tests today. With that fuse in, there is continuity between the positive battery post and the yellow wire @ starter relay with the key in ON. So, obviously there is a crossed wire somewhere that is allowing current to go...

I replaced the heater core first. Then I discovered that the big wire from battery to starter was shorting out on the steering shaft, so I changed that wire, the wire from the starter relay to solenoid, and the battery terminal came with that of course. I also changed starter relay. So I went...

I don't think it has anything to do with the gauges themselves. When I put the new ignition switch in, the fuse does not blow anymore. I'm sure it goes to other things besides the gauge cluster, but I know it at least goes to that because when that fuse blows the gauges are dead. I think there...

Guys, I think I'm going to just suck it up and re-wire my car. I put in a new ignition switch to solve my starting problems and things are just weird. I tested the switch today, here's what I found (seems to work to me) Start wire gets power in Start position only Accessory wire gets power...

I'll check for splices down the road. History is, it ran fine, i pulled the heater core and changed the wire from battery to starter, and then it wouldn't start, and the number six fuse blew every time the car was turned on. Changed starter relay, still nothing, determined it was before the...

I took the switch out, disconnected it, and put it back in with it and the lock cylinder in ON. Same symptoms. When I turn the key to ON the starter cranks. From looking at the ammeter I can tell that a bit more current is being drawn in START than ON but just a tiny amount. Is there a...

Ok, I will take it out, put them both in ON and re-assemble, see if that helps. It didn't look like it could be a cog off but it seems possible given the symptoms.

Okay, I just put the new switch in. I cut the little black wire and taped it up (I don't really need the shift indicator light). As for the little switch under the key, I left it out. Now, at first I left the 6 fuse out of the car. I hooked the battery up and turned the key, it sounded like the...

I took a closer look and it seems like this switch is for the key-in buzzer, which has never worked on my car, so I'll probably just leave that switch out.