Replacing Ignition Switch in 73 Duster

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danielb927

danielb927

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Hey all,

I'm trying to change the ignition switch in my 73 Duster, because it won't start. I know the relay, solenoid, starter, and NSS are all fine. So it's basically the ignition switch or something in the wiring. Now, I have pretty much everything off up to the ignition switch. The only thing left on the steering shaft is the lock plate. I have a lock plate depressor, but it doesn't work. The thing will not budge backwards no matter what kind of pressure I apply with the tool. How am I supposed to get this thing off? Has anyone ever done it before?
 
If you're talking about digging that little snap ring out of its groove just dig it out with a small pick.
 
RedFish said:
If you're talking about digging that little snap ring out of its groove just dig it out with a small pick.
Click to expand...

I have the rings out of the grooves in front of the lock plate. It looks like it is just the plate left, and whatever is attaching it to the steering shaft. I can pull the whole shaft out about an inch, lock plate with it, but can't do much more with the plate than wiggle it a tiny tiny bit back and forth. It looks like there may be some sort of ring that's right there with the lock plate? It's definitely not a snap ring though. I did take those out for sure, two of them.
 
it not a common snap ring with plier holes or ears, just a tempered wire ring.
 
I guess I should open a service manual cause my memory sux. There is one piece in there with a pin driven through it. That pin is hidden under a thin sheetmetal sleeve. The pin is larger on one end and goes out only one way. With the wheel centered ahead the pin could bust the drivers door glass on its way out. Thats the way it goes out, with a hammer and drift pin
 
RedFish said:
I guess I should open a service manual cause my memory sux. There is one piece in there with a pin driven through it. That pin is hidden under a thin sheetmetal sleeve. The pin is larger on one end and goes out only one way. With the wheel centered ahead the pin could bust the drivers door glass on its way out. Thats the way it goes out, with a hammer and drift pin
Click to expand...

That sounds more like it. How do you get at the pin? It looks like there is a place where the possible sleeve is kind of cut and dimpled in so i'll see if i can pull it back, or something, or just try hammering. I have not hammered any pins out yet, and this is the last piece left before I can take the ignition switch out. The snap rings were a pain, took me about 30 minutes of frustration with 2 screwdrivers to get them out. If I can't get the pin out tomorrow I'll take some pics and post them up
 
It does look like there is a kind of sleeve on there, but it definitely does not just lift off or slide off easily. I tried with a vice grip a bit but it bends some and I didnt want to damage it or anything. Here's what I'm trying to get off:

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ugh, I did this about 7 times, and everytime Ive hated that snapring. That sleeve looks like it's on there GOOD. All I did was lift it up with a flat head. The only thing youll damage is that sleeve, but it really doesn't need to seat that tight, just keeps the already jammed pin in there. If you can make a small gap under it by tapping that locker unit down then that would be ideal. Maybe a little heat on the bottom? idk, looks like its on there pretty good though! Try prying between the sleeve at the top if all else fails!
 
oh, btw, vice grips will only put pressure on those tabs, the tabs are whats keeping that thing tight!
 
Thanks, looks like it will be an afternoon of abuse but I'm glad I can safely take out some aggression on the sleeve thing. I think I can get a flathead under it if i work hard enough. Basically I just need to get those tabs bent back and it will slide off?
 
Should! If you end up mutilating it then I have another one I could send ya. But yeah, just get a thin flat head and pry it. (preferably over the tabs)

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If you end up needing anymore help just PM me, I got a few junk columns where I can show you some internals so you know what to expect.
 
Grab it with channel locks and turn it. Stick a screw driver under it and pry it off . Whatever it takes. That sleeve is meant to keep the pin from working its way out. Looser fit going back is not a problem.
 
The wheel lock mechanism wont have to come off if you have a pick you can slide under it to release the key clinder keeper button. With the key in and turned to on position the lock cylinder should slide right out.
Once the electrical switch is out you'll need to compare it with the new one. There are some aftermarket switches out there with an extra wire in a wrong place at harness connecter.
We'll get it all sorted. Hang in there :)
 
Good news: Got the snap ring of easily by turning it with channel-lock type pliers

Bad news: Can't budge the pin. I guess I don't have a "drift pin", I tried an awl and I can't seem to find my hammer so i was using an acrylic ended one or something. So maybe I just need the right tools? But it has not moved even a tiny bit in about 20 minutes of pounding.
 
again its larger on one end and will go only one way. I have set the steering wheel back on temporarily so I could back up some of the lost motion in the shaft when driving the pin out. If my memory serves correct , with the master spline at 12 o'clock the pin goes out toward the drivers door.
 
Thought of that myself, finally got it off when I found my hammer.

So now that I can see everything, it doesn't look like any wires are fried, but I guess I'll go ahead and swap it out. Do I even need to take the lock cylinder out? I guess one way or another I need to get those two red wires out that are attached to something other than the ignition switch itself, but i have the switch out.
 
Count the wires on the new switch and the old on. 6 on both ?
 
Looks like 5 on the current switch, plus the two red ones that go in to a plastic piece over by the lock cylinder. Haven't bought a new one yet.
 
Okay, I have my new switch, looks like I have it mostly figured out but wanting to make sure everything is right.

The clip has 8 wires, 5 large ones and 3 smaller ones.

The old starter had the 5 large wires going to it. The new one has the 5 large wires plus the first small wire going to it. So, I need to cut the small wire and attach it to the wire going to the gearshift position indicator light, which is what that spot in the clip was used for before (orange wire).

The last 2 small wires are both red and went to a separate little plastic switch that sits under the lock cylinder. Anyone know what this does? I assume I just need to plug those two metal connectors into the new switch in the same place as they were before?
 
I took a closer look and it seems like this switch is for the key-in buzzer, which has never worked on my car, so I'll probably just leave that switch out.
 
danielb927 said:
Okay, I have my new switch, looks like I have it mostly figured out but wanting to make sure everything is right.

The clip has 8 wires, 5 large ones and 3 smaller ones.

The old starter had the 5 large wires going to it. The new one has the 5 large wires plus the first small wire going to it. So, I need to cut the small wire and attach it to the wire going to the gearshift position indicator light, which is what that spot in the clip was used for before (orange wire).

The last 2 small wires are both red and went to a separate little plastic switch that sits under the lock cylinder. Anyone know what this does? I assume I just need to plug those two metal connectors into the new switch in the same place as they were before?
Click to expand...
Yep the orange wire for shift indicater belngs in 4th hole from one end on the harness connector. The extra black wire on the new switch doesn't belong there or anywhere else. To just leave it all as is will blow fuses.
 
Okay, I just put the new switch in. I cut the little black wire and taped it up (I don't really need the shift indicator light). As for the little switch under the key, I left it out.

Now, at first I left the 6 fuse out of the car. I hooked the battery up and turned the key, it sounded like the solenoid clicked but the car did not crank.

2nd try: I put the 6 fuse (which had been blowing as soon as I turned the key before) in. Now, it looks like the gauges work again (at least the oil and brake lights do, and the temperature should be about as low as it can be with the car being cold. Also I think it is about out of gas). But here's the weird part: the car cranks in the ON position. It also cranks in the START position. I also have a new key position that is turned back from the lock position.

So, what's up? It seems like if I get this switch functioning properly everything will be good to go. The fuse does not blow anymore. It seems like this new switch has 5 positions it can be in, two of which crank the starter.
 
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