Search results for query: *

does anyone know of a source for the plastic connectors that fit the ignition and headlight switches? im working on a 70 power wagon. thanks all sb

maybe here http://www.classicindustries.com/shop/mopar/parts/electrical-wiring/wiring-connectors/connectors/

+1. try a jumper wire from the nss terminal on the solinoid to ground. if it starts then you found the problem. i usually bypass the nss on everything i drive.

heres the place https://www.superbrightleds.com/mini-wedge.html

id bet almost everyone just bypasses the switch

hey chief, you forgot the wifebeater tee shirt

i soldered a couple of mine back on and it works fine.

he said that he replaces both the switch and ballast though? i had that problem with my pickup, ended up being the ecu.

you can get the relays at napa. just ask for foglite relays. i think i paid around $12-15 each. print off a copy of that diagram above and take with you to make sure you get the right ones. i wasnt able to return electrical parts even though the counterman gave me the wrong one the first time.

here is a pic of a flat cap. it is for a unilte marine dizzy but may help you find what you need http://www.centuryperformance.com/mallory/marineuniassm.asp http://app.infopia.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/SFV/32214/vpid/3238669/vpcsid/0/rid/126348...

the problem is obvious. the distributor is on the wrong end of the motor!!! i think ive seen a cap that is flat where the wires come out the sides.

i agree. auto resetting breakers that plug right in. i think i paid around $5-6 at carquest for each

i just replaced the ecu in my pickup. it would start and run fine and then just die. few minutes later it would be fine again. get a new one and keep a spare in the glovebox. they do "just go out", its pretty common. make sure that it has a good ground. scrape the paint off where it bolts to the...

might be easier to get a bigger crank pulley. or up the idle a little.

i was looking at those too. i wonder what the thing behind the vac advance is?

either the switch or maybe the resistor on the heater plenum. im with joe, its probably the switch.

do you have this pic? http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1969/69BarracudaA.jpg

ive replaced all my wiring using 14 except headlites, alternator and high draw stuff. better too big than too small. i just bought a few different colors.

well, i found that the alternator i want to use turns the same way as the crank..............so the only other thing is does a cummins turn the same as a 383? i would think so.

didnt think about that, makes sense

will an alternator work regardless of rotation direction? im thinking of using one off a 92 ram deisel. its the small nipondenso with the external voltage regulator, but im not sure which way they rotate if it matters. thanks sb

ive been wrong before, that makes twice now

its built into the headlite switch. also just for kicks make sure your headlite switch has a very good ground

i would think that all the switches and plug ins are pretty much the same just in different locations. that would mean that the wires wouldnt reach from one place to another. i have a 70 power wagon and a 66 cuda, all the wire colors and plugs are pretty much interchangable per the wiring diagrams

is this the cuda in your pic?

are you guys mounting the battery on the pass side, drivers side or does it really matter?

sounds like you may have blown the power valve. it will leak gas and run like crap at low rpm. its caused by backfire. basically just floods the engine.

how do you guys with batteries in the trunk run your wiring? + right to the starter and - to the frame at the rear of the car? what size cable for the pos side? how about routing, any pics? lastly, anyone using the red top optima? thanks

since the Q comes up often, heres a link to another site with all the wiring schematics http://www.mymopar.com/wiringdiagrams.htm

here you go http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1967/67BarracudaA.jpg http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1967/67BarracudaB.jpg