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I was told it was pulled from a 68 Roadrunner, and no other specs aside from the 2.97 ring. It rained today and as I was leaving work I leaned into the gas pedal a little more than usual and it took me sideways with ease. I don't know when I'll get a chance to pull it apart and look at it...

yup 99% sure, and the first time I took it out it laid down 2 lines...

Ok so my cone-type sure-grip seems to be giving me some issues... When the car is jacked up and I spin the driveshaft both wheels spin (as they should) but when I manually turn 1 wheel, the other wheel spins in the opposite direction! (This happens when the car is in neutral or park and the...

X2 I ask dumb questions all the time, but then I learn that there's usually a smart answer to them :P I wouldn't have made it this far without FABO...

Found mine on craigslist. It was owned by a major Ford guy who didnt really think much of it. Posted it as a Plymouth Sure-Lock... $200 and a 2 hour drive later and I had it! :)

I'm going to try this later tonight when I get off of work (unless any of you have any objections to this method) speak now or forever hold your peace.:sleepy5:

What do we think of this idea... Drilling a hole in the back of the yoke so that either A). I can use a very small punch to push out the extractor and try to drill out again. or B). Drill from the back of the yoke and try to drill something in the back of the bolt that will basically unscrew...

Very easily said. Not so easily done. took 6 drill bits to get a decent hole in the bolt. Took 1 bolt extractor to totally F! up everything by breaking off in that hole. Now I have to try to drill through that piece of extractor... My Cobalt bits wont touch it...

O.k. after day 3 of fighting with a broken bolt that wont come out of my pinion yoke, I decided that I would take the yoke off and bring it to my step-dad's shop so he can try... I bought a new breaker bar and 2 foot section of heavy duty pipe (to hold the yoke still as I have seen on a thread...

I don't have a dial indicator... I'll have to do some research and look into getting one though. I didn't realize it was that critical. Dont know what I'de do without FABO! :P (probably learn everything the hard way)

Learn something new every day... It was the adjuster on the passenger side, it was adjusted all the way in which (I guess) made the axle stick in too far. I adjusted it to about 1/2 way out and it's very smooth and much much easier to turn. Phew... Love when I end up saving money...

Ok I have totally killed my differential yoke. broke a bolt off putting way too much into it. long story short I've burned through several bits and once I finally got a hole in the bolt I managed to break a bolt extractor off which took the place of the hole I drilled. Not my day... I...

Does it what drums are off, I'll check the Axle bearings. What do I look for in the center section if the bearings seem ok?

Yes with my hand spinning the yoke, but should it be lumpy? it's not smooth at all...

Maybe the bearings? anyone? :(

8 3/4 Suregrip rear, cone style with the 741 case. Should it be easy and smooth when I'm turning the yoke to make the wheels spin? It's hard to spin and when it does spin its not a smooth spin. :scratch: It is low on gear oil but it had this problem when it was full of oil too. HELP...

I have seen the chart, and according to the chart the length i'm looking for is 51.96" I want to be 100% sure though before taking it to get shortened. I have a 72 Scamp powered by a 318, 904 - 8 3/4" 741 SG case. If anyone knows this would be a great help!! Thanks!!!

GOT IT! Bought a sturdy, yet very thin metal spreader/scraper for the paint aisle of my work (Lowe's) and with that and a hammer I was able to get in between and "break the seal". Thanks for all of the advice!

I'm leaning towards rust maybe, from what I'm told this rear was sitting in a barn/building since 72 and hasn't been touched since. Unfortunately im about to head off to work, but I'll pick up a utility knife or a thin blade/scraper and see if I cant break it loose. the whole rear is out of...

tearing apart the 8 3/4 I recently purchased to "freshen her up". I am having a little (a lot) of difficulty getting the Suregrip center out of the housing. Any tricks to make this easier? and yes, axles have been pulled and all of the housing nuts are off.

I am swapping from 7 1/4 to 8 3/4, What all is involved? If I left my parking brake cables on the car from the 7 1/4 can I hook them up to the 8 3/4? I know I need different size U-bolts as well as shock plates, anything else I should know?

He said standard chrysler and ford so i'm gonna say it's 4.5"

Thanks, yeah I was able to get my 7 1/4 rear out in about 2 hours time by myself, pretty much doing exactly what you said except I didnt have a 2nd person which would have made things a little easier but :P

I scored an 8 3/4 off of craigslist today, going to pick it up next week. Guy says it came out of a late 60's roadrunner. says backing plate to backing plate is 51" or 51.5" (can't remember which) and it's got 2.98 suregrip. Not bad for $200... but my question to you knowledgeable...

Wow that would be great if you could get that measurement for me. Then I can call around and see if any shops will resize and balance my driveshaft with is for 904 - 7 1/4 rear. I'm trying to plan ahead as I am driving 5 hours away the day after 2moro to pick up the 8 3/4 rear from another...

It's a 67 B-Body rear end if that changes anything...

Does anyone know the driveshaft length from 318 - 904 - 8 3/4 rear? This would be for my 72 Scamp

Really? All of the dimensions are the same?

So I guess my next step is to find another rear before this one blows up... since this 318 is definitely not stock... I'll have to keep my eyes out for a good deal.

will the 7 1/4 hold up well? I know the 8 3/4 is ideal but is the 7 1/4 a decent rear end?