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Off set would better then binding them.

Not going to go large in the back , maybe we oval if I can. Probably be winter project. I don't mind moving perches I don't like jury rigging things. Yes the rear end is out of a 67 Belvedere.

I got what I think is a good find on a 8 3/4 489 sure grip with 3:55 gears but its out of a B body. This will be going into a 70 Duster . I'm just throwing this out there. The Duster fender wells look wider then my 68 Dart and I know there both Abodies 57 1/2" in length . Would it be possible...

Thanks for the help. I have never seen the combs so can't tell ya. Just going by # on transmission. Dosen't seem to affect shifting at all. I have lock out as I should just no reverse lights. Earlier this week I pulled the console to make sure I had the reverse switch.I did and is in good...

I was given a tranny said it was from a motorhome mid 80's . I had my doubts because it had a tail shaft . I know some do . Anyway I had it serviced and put it in my Dart. Its been in a couple years but the NSS has never fully functioned. Either locks out fine and no backup lights or no lock out...

In garage job or take it to a shop

Just noticed a drip under my car about where the yoke is . Haven't crawled under there yet. If it is the pinion seal , whats the chances of snuggling it a little tighter about 3/5 lbs at a time. This was rebuilt a couple months ago , new gears and pinion rebuild kit crush sleeve , seal etc...

No . It was black. And they had to send it from Seattle. We have 5 O'Reillys in our city and no one keeps Mopar parts and I had no other options on gaskets. I'm going to Napa.

This is the first time for RTV and I wouldn't have done it but Felpro suggested it. I also Tighten in steps and opposing sides and now I have to clean all that crap off.

I used RTV but let it tack. I've never had problems before. Also factory torque is 40-45 lb probably too much on that thin of gasket.

I changed gears in my 8 3/4 bought a felt gasket from O'reilly's (a very thin felt gasket). fallowed instructions . they recommended a film of sealer on both sides of gasket. I torqued the carrier nuts to spec and the gasket didn't hold , it pushed out all around. I don't want to use felt...

Thanks Dell. Tranny was rebuilt not too long ago and if I remember right when I swapped the 354 it leaked also. I get the front seal in it should be OK.

Thanks guys that's a load off . I don't need anymore cap right now.

Front seal is leaking on my 727 so I'm in the process of dropping it. When I pulled the drive line , fluid started leaking from the tail shaft , it wasn't leaking before I pulled it. the fluid had been collecting in the drive line input shaft. Could the fluid be finding its way back from the...

I hadn't been looking at tack. I will pay attention when I take it out next.

Yes , I can punch it and you would think with that kind of horse power it should burn the tires , even power braking dosen't work. Could it be TC is bad? Only has about 300 miles on it.

Engine runs good , not transferring power. I have a couple places I will call.

Right now its sluggish . I would say more torque .

Need to upgrade my torgue converter. Right now I have Hughes 2000 stall that was behind my 354 Hemi , it did OK but now that I have the 471 its not keeping up. Heres the engine info . 471 internally balanced, crank is SCAT-4340 SS, CAM is Hughes .540/547 about 550+ HP , 373 gears but going to...

I had one behind my 354, 450 HP did fine {Hughes 24-20 2000 stall} but struggles behind my 471. I'm looking to upgrade will be pulling it . It has about 300 miles on it.

Cable end may be worn but shouldn't leak from that. Check the speedo gear housing . Its easy enough to pull it apart and check. Jack the car up enough to get to the tranny ,use jack stands. This will shift trans fluid to the pass side of tranny. Unscrew bolt to speedo housing and work speedo...

x2 . You want to match your parts don't just through stuff together. Carb to intake, to cam etc. You might also want to look at your converter even though your not going to race. Summits pretty good about setting up combos just let them now what your going after.

Yes the end is worn and no it wasn't a factory bearing. I have yukon axles with green bearings ,no inner seal but i just may put them in as added insurance.

Yes I did mean inner seal. On the new bearing the bearing is the seal from what i understand. When i pulled the axles there were no inner seals. First time through for this type. A friend of mine races and they take their housings to a guy that will machine the bad end. Waiting to find out how...

We measured both bearings with calipers their both the same. By putting inner bearings back in you stop the flow of lube to the green bearing. Tapered bearings are grease lubed and require the inner bearing. It looks like maybe a new housing end.

The play is up and bown bearing is brand new. Starting to think the same thing as you guys. I thinking a new axle end. I also read something about a speedi - sleeve , has anyone heard of this. I called their tech today he's supposed to get back with me.

I recently had the rear end gone through on my 68 Dart. Its an 8 3/4 489. I up graded to 373 gears and BBP Yukon axles, master rebuild kit everything was redone. With no miles on the axles setting on jack stands ,I noticed that the driver side axle was leaking. I pulled the axle and everything...

I have an A-727 I put in a console and oem floor shift looks like from a Coronet or charger in my 68 dart. Every thing went ok except bottom linkage is wrong ,can't get full movement. From what i have found looks like linkage was from slap shifter. Has anyone made their own linkage? I'm going to...

I'm putting a console in my 68 Dart. Right now it has a Hurst shifter (automatic) cable operated. Has anyone tried using cable insted of lenkage. it looks like it can be adapted. Maybe shift pull ratio to cable travel ?