10 sec. 318?

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djwhog said:
you are going to be close to 7k on that build, you still need the rest of the power train and suspension to do 10s.

Also what about a roll cage?

Dont must tracks require a cage when you go 10s? Not to mention other safety stuff?
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Of course you need all that stuff. I pointed out the same type of thing earlier but was told that I was closed minded about 318s. :dontknow:

I think that sometimes on these message boards there is very little concept of how to spend money wisely. People ask questions and all sorts of ideas get tossed around, alot of which is unrealistic. I also think that most guys think they can build up an engine and the car will do what they want it to do. I'm of the opposite school of thought in that I'd build the chassis the best I could within certain boundaries and build the engine after all that was done. That's just me though.

Do the research and you'll find the answers you're looking for. Buy/download desktop dyno and start plugging in some numbers to see what you get. Go to the drags or car shows and talk to people about cars you see. I think that's some of the best advice given in this thread so far is to have a definite plan and go from there. Everything will fall into place after the plan is formulated.
 
Umm yup I think I mentioned having a plan a few pages ago. Plans can always change but it really helps to have it all written down and check it off as you go. Gives a sense of direction and progress.Also saves you money as your not selling unneeded parts at a loss.
 
Yeah, I'm thinking the whiteboard next to my computer is going to get a workout pretty soon. As far as heads, are all small block Mopar heads interchangeable? If ported 302 casting heads (or whatever the swirl heads are) get me 220 cfm flow (I think that was roughly the number I remember), could I just buy a set of aftermarket 360 heads with similar or better flow numbers and expect similar results, assuming they fit? Or does the swirl really make that much difference? That build rmchrgr put up seems pretty wild. Can you even run 13.4 pistons on pump gas? I cringe at the thought of driving to the track with 4.56 gears as well... At least I'd have an empty tank to put race gas in when I got there, lol.
 
Map63Vette said:
Yeah, I'm thinking the whiteboard next to my computer is going to get a workout pretty soon. As far as heads, are all small block Mopar heads interchangeable? If ported 302 casting heads (or whatever the swirl heads are) get me 220 cfm flow (I think that was roughly the number I remember), could I just buy a set of aftermarket 360 heads with similar or better flow numbers and expect similar results, assuming they fit? Or does the swirl really make that much difference? That build rmchrgr put up seems pretty wild. Can you even run 13.4 pistons on pump gas? I cringe at the thought of driving to the track with 4.56 gears as well... At least I'd have an empty tank to put race gas in when I got there, lol.
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I think if your thinking with your wallet, the best bang for the buck would be the RHS-360x aftermarket iorn cylinder heads. Theres a member on here who sets them up and sells em for cheaper than eddys out of the box. They even flow a bit better. And yes 13.4 to one comp is way too much for pump gas. 10.5 is about the limit for iorn heads, which actually is still way better than a stock 318. Just my .02
 
10.5 is too high for iron heads on the street. 9.5 is more like it. Alum can get away with 10.5...
 
Oh, by the way, the only reason I threw out that dig about the 360 with eddy heads was because just a week ago I watched a REALLY dissappointing episode of horsepower T.V. I watched eagerly as they bolted on thousands of dollars worth of parts to their freshly built 360 and headed for the dyno, only to watch them get all excited over they're $6000.00 372hp 360.
What I was trying to illustrate was that planning and building skill trump no brainer bolt on builds. That was the point of the comparision between the $1400.00 318 406hp junkyard jewl article and the $6000.00 360 horsepower tv build. Injunuity trumps money.
No offense was meant to the 360 guys. I have had several awsome 360's throughout the years. Just trying to get people to think outside the box.
If anyone can find a link to the video I'd appreciate it.
 
needsaresto said:
10.5 is too high for iron heads on the street. 9.5 is more like it. Alum can get away with 10.5...
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Then explain to me why the 340s and hp273s came from the factory with 10.5. I really doubt that that they drove to an airport everytime they needed fuel..
 
jeremiah2146fa said:
Oh, by the way, the only reason I threw out that dig about the 360 with eddy heads was because just a week ago I watched a REALLY dissappointing episode of horsepower T.V. I watched eagerly as they bolted on thousands of dollars worth of parts to their freshly built 360 and headed for the dyno, only to watch them get all excited over they're $6000.00 372hp 360.
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I was also severly dissapointed on this build
 
jeremiah2146fa said:
Oh, by the way, the only reason I threw out that dig about the 360 with eddy heads was because just a week ago I watched a REALLY dissappointing episode of horsepower T.V. I watched eagerly as they bolted on thousands of dollars worth of parts to their freshly built 360 and headed for the dyno, only to watch them get all excited over they're $6000.00 372hp 360.
What I was trying to illustrate was that planning and building skill trump no brainer bolt on builds. That was the point of the comparision between the $1400.00 318 406hp junkyard jewl article and the $6000.00 360 horsepower tv build. Injunuity trumps money.
No offense was meant to the 360 guys. I have had several awsome 360's throughout the years. Just trying to get people to think outside the box.
If anyone can find a link to the video I'd appreciate it.
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That show is nothing but a 30 minute infomercial for summit

I'd like to see the junkyard jewel on a dyno that isn't happy or at least in a car running the 1/4. The jewel would probably make 370's which isn't bad on a dyno without the extra boost of WT's correction factor.
 
Rockerdude said:
Then explain to me why the 340s and hp273s came from the factory with 10.5. I really doubt that that they drove to an airport everytime they needed fuel..
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Um..... They had leaded, high octane gas back then at every gas station.

Gas has changed in the last 40 years.
 
Rockerdude said:
I was also severly dissapointed on this build
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Thats because thier idiots. Every other engine they have build recieved aftermarket pistons for a compression boost. They left the stock replacements in and instead of spending $300 on KB hyper flat tops they wasted a pile of money on eddie heads,harland sharp rocker etc etc. That poor 360 made 372 h.p with 8:1 compression or close to it. With the right piston Im sure power would have exceeded 425 h.p by a fair margin.In spite of this the engine still made about 430 ft/lb's of torque!

Not thier first engine build so they have no excuse.

Send those morons an email.I did.
 
AS far as compression on pump gas, I had a 1970 buick electra 225 (forgive me, I was only 16) with the stock 455 wildcat 10.25 to 1 and ran it on 87 octane most of the time just fine. She made better power on premium, but would still stand still, with no powerbreaking, melting a set of rear tires on 87. Ahhhhh... the good old days of $0.99 gas!
 
needsaresto said:
Thats because thier idiots. Every other engine they have build recieved aftermarket pistons for a compression boost. They left the stock replacements in and instead of spending $300 on KB hyper flat tops they wasted a pile of money on eddie heads,harland sharp rocker etc etc. That poor 360 made 372 h.p with 8:1 compression or close to it. With the right piston Im sure power would have exceeded 425 h.p by a fair margin.In spite of this the engine still made about 430 ft/lb's of torque!

Not thier first engine build so they have no excuse.

Send those morons an email.I did.
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Yea, I noticed the low compression pistons, and also that they waisted all that money on those fancy rockers.. Money better spent else where.
 
I just started a new thread to try and drag out some good 273-318 builds, hopefully we'll get to see some neat stuff.
 
I almost forgot, map63vette, If you're really serious about trying your hand in fabing, and stepping out into the unknown world of making stuff work, I have an old 8-71 blower I'll sell you dirt cheap (like $300). I pulled it off a running 8-71 detriot. It's in pretty good shape with no serious pitting and there is NO bearing play. In order to KEEP it cheap, you'd have to fab you're own manifold and drive setup, but it would be an insanley cheap way to make some crazy horsepower if your brave or foolish enough to fire up the welder!
 
Needs a totally forged bottom end but would be old school cool!
 
how come noone here has even mentioned a W series topend?
i agree there would be a need for a very good car to run 10s with a 318 but why on earth would you not go for W2´s or W5´s to make the power? in all honesty all these stock replacement heads are pretty good for what they are but they are not realy the hot ticket for BIG power, and 10.s requiere some pretty darn good power if you want to get solidly into the tens unless you have a very light car and as i see it, an engine with better heads dont need to go entirely crazy on cam to make good power compared to what has to be done to make some power with a crappy head.
an i wouldnt trust a ebay special strokerkit for that powerlevel, go for a forged bottomend with good parts in it. i help out a friend with a 383stroker chevy and every raceweekend we both hate the fact that he bought the cheapest strokerkit he could find since we just dont dare turning that motor any higher than 6000rpm and we are both sure it would make alitle better ET running it to 6800-7000..
 
jeremiah2146fa said:
I almost forgot, map63vette, If you're really serious about trying your hand in fabing, and stepping out into the unknown world of making stuff work, I have an old 8-71 blower I'll sell you dirt cheap (like $300). I pulled it off a running 8-71 detriot. It's in pretty good shape with no serious pitting and there is NO bearing play. In order to KEEP it cheap, you'd have to fab you're own manifold and drive setup, but it would be an insanley cheap way to make some crazy horsepower if your brave or foolish enough to fire up the welder!
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Lol, while that is very tempting, my welding skills are limited to a sketchy little 120V flux wire mig welder with no gas. It's pretty tempermental and we finally found out it was because the grease originally in the feed motor gearbox melted out and was shorting the motor out, kept blowing fuses and finally torched a ceramic resistor in the case. Cleaned all the old stuff out and put in a new resistor and different grease and finally got it running consistently, but the feed roller keeps slipping. Hard to weld when you don't have consistent feed speed. Got that cleaned up too and it seems to finally run well, but my skills are still amateur to be gracious and a custom intake is waaaay beyond my level.
 
Good mention on the W2 heads! They were and still are one of the best heads for making tons of power. 600 h.p with W2's is not unachievable..
 
I've got a stock stroke forged 318 crank too if you need that. I've accually got a LOT of stuff laying around from other projects. A 67-74 318 block bored .040 over, a set of 302 casting heads with 1.94 1.60 valves, a good condition Purple Shaft Cam
Adv. Duration: .268°/272°
Dur. @ .050'': 228°/231°
Lift: .450''/.455''
Centerline: 110°
Basic RPM: 1500-5800 RPM
a like new gear drive set, 2 8-71 blowers, hell, I can't even remember what all I have anymore, but I know I've got that much, I think I have another 318 short block And a set of 67-74 heads somewhere too.
 
If your'e dead set on the 318 because it came with the car, stroke it and supercharge it. Research www.hughesengines.com and www.superchargerstore.com You'll need a high stall converter about 5500, some real gears 4.11-4.88 lots of suspension work and subframe. Make the car as light as possible but not sacrifice stability or you could get yourself killed. Last but not least, cost; my dad's 70 nova runs 11.10 on motor and mid nines on 300 shot, the motor if you had to start from scratch cost about 10k and chevy crap is the cheapest and most plentiful out there, ma mopar is the most limited and pricey there is. I don't want to be a buzz kill but that 6k would just setup the car and not even touch the motor. But good luck, I'm currently building a 1968 barracuda with 318 and shooting for 12s.
 
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