10 sec. 318?

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jeremiah2146fa said:
I've got a stock stroke forged 318 crank too if you need that. I've accually got a LOT of stuff laying around from other projects. A 67-74 318 block bored .040 over, a set of 302 casting heads with 1.94 1.60 valves, a good condition Purple Shaft Cam
Adv. Duration: .268°/272°
Dur. @ .050'': 228°/231°
Lift: .450''/.455''
Centerline: 110°
Basic RPM: 1500-5800 RPM
a like new gear drive set, 2 8-71 blowers, hell, I can't even remember what all I have anymore, but I know I've got that much, I think I have another 318 short block And a set of 67-74 heads somewhere too.
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I'll try to keep that in mind, still waiting on my next scholarship check before I can start buying stuff again, lol. I still need to put everything down on paper and make sure I'm not missing something or to make sure it will all work together.

@racerdan
That's pretty much what I'm looking into the most right now. I think I'll probably do heads, intake, and cam now and then a stroker kit and supercharger when I get the money. About the only place I've seen a full roots kit for a small block Mopar is Dyer's so far. Anybody had any experience with them? I'm shooting more for mid to low 11's right now and then I'll probably work the chassis to try to bring the numbers down later as money permits. I don't really want to do any big rear suspension work like a 4 link or anything, just kind of keep it old school with stiff springs and maybe some traction bars. I realize I'm really limiting myself by not totally modifying the car, but I also realize that I'm really not going to see that much track time with it, it's going to be more of a street car. I'll be keeping the 4 speed, so no worries on high stall for driveability or anything, but those gears will probably be way high for me since I'll need to drive to the track... Maybe someday down the road I'll go all out on it, but for now I'm more just trying to get it on the road and have some fun with it.
 
On a somewhat different note, who else besides Edlebrock makes aluminum heads? I'm not necessarily against stock iron heads, but I'd really like the weight savings and the higher compression I can get with aluminum. Are any other companies reasonably priced compared to Edelbrocks?
 
mopar340dave said:
they are not "just traction bars"

they really do work better than any other leaf spring setup
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I wouldn't say that there was a guy running at the track a few years ago he was using caltracs and running a 416 stroker..i was running stock xhd leaf springs and a pinion snubber with a 416 stroker his best 60' was a 1.45 mine was a 1.42..:cheers::cheers::cheers:
 
jeremiah2146fa said:
Oh, by the way, the only reason I threw out that dig about the 360 with eddy heads was because just a week ago I watched a REALLY dissappointing episode of horsepower T.V. I watched eagerly as they bolted on thousands of dollars worth of parts to their freshly built 360 and headed for the dyno, only to watch them get all excited over they're $6000.00 372hp 360.
What I was trying to illustrate was that planning and building skill trump no brainer bolt on builds. That was the point of the comparision between the $1400.00 318 406hp junkyard jewl article and the $6000.00 360 horsepower tv build. Injunuity trumps money.
No offense was meant to the 360 guys. I have had several awsome 360's throughout the years. Just trying to get people to think outside the box.
If anyone can find a link to the video I'd appreciate it.
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Thats because those knuckleheads were running no compression,up the compression to 10.5 or better and watch how a 360 built that way runs i know firsthand..besides they don't know dick about Mopars..As for that magazine motor,i believe they blew up that there famous junkyard jewel,by the way...
 
MOPARJ said:
Well, if compaired to the 10s he is trying to run, yes.

In general, no, it's not slow.
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Well to each his own,after running in the 11's yes 13's are VERY slow,and as i stated before he's not getting anywhere near the 10's with a 318 unless he spends a LOT of money or uses a LOT of spray..second of which anyone can do...
 
stroked 340 said:
Well to each his own,after running in the 11's yes 13's are VERY slow,and as i stated before he's not getting anywhere near the 10's with a 318 unless he spends a LOT of money or uses a LOT of spray..second of which anyone can do...
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I agree with the concept of looking elsewhere for 10s on the budget he is on. It can be done, power wise, with a 318, but it will not be financially feasible. Something along the lines of a 360 based stroker with RHS, or maybe even worked Magnum heads, and more than 10:5:1 compression may be a starting point to at least work in the right direction.
 
Hi, newbie here. Which 318's-5.2's have nickle in the blocks ? I just got a Magnum-std. bore sonic tested ,and it was down to .102" between cyls. I'm thinkin .085" at .03" overbore is too shakey ,with 4" arm ?,(360/408).Story is, 71-74(360) blocks have thicker walls ? Currently building a 5.2L for a "light" car, about 2,400 lbs., steel crank,re-ground roller cam to mech. Edlebrock heads and dual plane. Would like to push max hp. to 7,000+ rpm. ? Thanks for the tech. ateam.
 
What sort of crank (forged or cast) did old 318's come with stock? Pretty sure mine is late 60's by the casting code. If it's a stock forged piece I might consider forgetting about the stroker kit for the time being and just updating rods and pistons. Would help the pocket book quite a bit to not have to get a forged crank aftermarket.
 
Map63Vette said:
On a somewhat different note, who else besides Edlebrock makes aluminum heads? I'm not necessarily against stock iron heads, but I'd really like the weight savings and the higher compression I can get with aluminum. Are any other companies reasonably priced compared to Edelbrocks?
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brodix, indy and mopar, but most of them are at the higher end of the scale both performancewice and cost. they may not be a whole lot more expensive if you just check the price on the bare heads but all the other stuff like rockers, headers and intake,sometimes valvecovers and alot of other small things makes the price take a pretty big jump
 
So I was just messing around with a desktop dyno program and came across something interesting. I noticed that if I go the blown route, the stroker kit seemed to have very little effect in hp gains. It moved the powerband around some (I think it basically just shifted the curve over maybe 1000 rpm), but didn't seem to add any real hp. Does this make sense to anyone else or is the program just sort of off? It also seemed strange because it had pretty much any 318 combo I was looking at losing power past 5-6000, and I thought these were supposed to be high winders... If the stroker thing is true though I'm praying that my car has a forged crank in it already, lol. Otherwise, I may have to give Jeremiah a shout on some of those parts =P.

EDIT: My bad, the stroker moves the power lower in the rpm range. Duh, I should have thought about that first, lol. However, it actually drop 50 hp off unless I'm missing something else in the setup.
 
I Have a 318 with W-2 heads on it. It ran abest of 7.17 in 1/8 mile and a little shy from 10.s in the 1/4. I will sell it to you for $3500. It needs a valve job and probaly re-ringed. You will be under $4000. Then buy a 100 shot N.O.S and your where you need to be for $4500. Ramcharger posted my add, I believe post #65. click on the highlighted HERE in his add. You will have $2500. left to buy your Cal-tracks and/or 4 link and a good set of tires and gear.
 
highwaystar said:
I Have a 318 with W-2 heads on it. It ran abest of 7.17 in 1/8 mile and a little shy from 10.s in the 1/4. I will sell it to you for $3500. It needs a valve job and probaly re-ringed. You will be under $4000. Then buy a 100 shot N.O.S and your where you need to be for $4500. Ramcharger posted my add, I believe post #65. click on the highlighted HERE in his add. You will have $2500. left to buy your Cal-tracks and/or 4 link and a good set of tires and gear.
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X2!!!

Map63Vette, you need to look hard at this deal if you're serious about going fast with a 318. Blowers and strokers just add complication and cost.This engine is all there and is a proven combo, plus it's pretty cheap for what it is. Besides it has the lovely steel crank you're after...
 
What sort of specs did the car have that ran that engine and what all does the engine have in it? I'd be curious to see what all it had in it. I know I'll need new gears and tires for mine, but I don't necessarily want to go with some crazy low gears like 4.88s because I have to drive 15-30+ highway miles to get to the track... I need a quick change rear end, lol, but I'm sure they're probably not all that cheap.
 
The car was just super stock springs with adjustable snubber and sub frame connecters. All steel, no glass. just rear seats removed and battery moved to the trunk to lighten it up. Ohh and some pretty light wheels.

The bottom end is a 318 forged steel crank, stock rods(polished beams and A.R.P. bolts) and 20 over pop-up pistons and the block was prepped for a roller cam (630 lift?) roller rockers and the rest was the W-2 heads and intake.

With Caltracs and a little lighter car, this combo would have been in the 10:80's easily.

You can't build it yourself for under $8000. You will have $3500. in trying to find W-2 heads and the roller rockers.
 
Map63Vette said:
What sort of specs did the car have that ran that engine and what all does the engine have in it? I'd be curious to see what all it had in it. I know I'll need new gears and tires for mine, but I don't necessarily want to go with some crazy low gears like 4.88s because I have to drive 15-30+ highway miles to get to the track... I need a quick change rear end, lol, but I'm sure they're probably not all that cheap.
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If you have $2500 you could go with a gear vendor tailshaft,and you would have a six speed auto. 4:56 gears are like 3:56 in overdrive. It would even benefit that 318 at the track as it's bound to be peaky. Launching the car in low and splitting second would really help keep it in that narrow powerband.
 
I've got a stick in the car now that's going to stay, half of the reason I bought the car, lol. Do they make a similar tailshaft for a stick? It's basically just a two speed "extra" set of gears isn't it? My brother had a Honda 900 Custom motorcycle with an extra shift lever like that. Sort of goofy, but nice on the highway.
 
needsaresto said:
If you have $2500 you could go with a gear vendor tailshaft,and you would have a six speed auto.
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Not the first thing I would think to do to get in to the tens with a 318.

You need gears to go fast, that's just simple physics. An overdrive will add a good deal of weight and complication (trans tunnel mods, wiring, etc.)

IMO, money would be better spent elsewhere. If you have the 4 speed, you'd prolly want to make sure it's tight, have the right clutch and a lot of gear in the rear. I think Passon makes a 'slick shift' deal. Or find member 'Outsider' on here and talk to him about 4 speeds and what it takes for them to be fast. In the end, you might be better off with a low gear 904 and good converter.

But if you're bent on staying with the stick, you'll need to learn how to row the car into the tens. And unless your name is Sox or McCandless you're likely not going to be very efficient at it until you have several laps under your belt.

See this video to get an idea. Go to 1:01.

Just my 2 bits.
 
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