1968 Dodge Dart GT Sleeping Beauty?

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All of the vinyl trim holes welded and a crack in the fender well under the battery box repaired. All the welding and grinding on this project should be complete.

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Front and Rear windshield channels cleaned. Clips removed. Dremel tool makes great slots for screw heads rusted out.

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Today is the beginnings of the Headliner Replacement.
I removed any trim pieces that are in the way. Windshield removal is almost mandatory. Maybe an upholstery shop could do but I doubt it. I did a 68 Ford Fairlane, which is fairly similar. A 64 Corvette hardtop that is nothing like this. 63 VW made my own, totally different style. This will be my first dart

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I watched a few videos mainly they’re generic. But when I pulled the old headliner down on the Dart, there were these two hangers that extended from the rear window to the rear bow. So these two hooks go into two slots you cut into the headliner and attach to the rear bow. This has to be the starting place once I get some insulation in place. I believe you have to pull the headliner from the rear to the front.
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I had to determine the centerline on the old headliner. Transfer the bows in order. Some are the same others very a little bit in length. They are color-coded on the ends, but it’s easier just to do it in order.. you have to cut the cloth bows 3 inches from the end of the metal rods. This allows them to be inserted easily and should help take wrinkles out.
So if a rod is 48 inches half of that’s 24. That is your centerline. I marked the outside edge to outside edge on the headliner. Then I came back several inches up to three. Then you feed the rod through. I’m cutting my relief slot, say 21 to 22 inches off of the centerline off a metal rod that was 48”.
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Rough installation. Just wanted to get it hung. See where it lays and play with it. No glue just clamps at this point.

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I checked it the next morning and it seems some of the distortions were smoothing out. I hope to roll it into the sun and see what happens before gluing the rear window area first.
 
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Supposedly, you can’t get too, hung up about making it perfect, apparently using a hairdryer - hot air gun will help work the wrinkles out in the final stages. I guess we’ll see.
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Let the front set up with contact cement (rubberized) for 2 hours then the front windshield.
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Working it rear to front. Next step is side to side.
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Today’s heat will help with the wrinkles. Garage was 85 inside. It does seem with time and even natural heat that it is smoothing out some. First two pictures were after sitting 24 hours. Last picture above I had just glued and clamped.
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Several hours later and you can see it above the top is smoothing out. Trick seems to be a little section at a time and duplicate left and right.
 
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I did mine myself. Still have wrinkles in the rear sail panel area but I can live with it. Definitely takes patience. Looking good so far.
 
Headliner is in. I have to attach the sail panels at the bottom on the rear shelf.
Looking at 90 today. Rolled the windows up, but without F and R windows not sure if the heat will increase.

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It got really hot as it was, but that is a good idea. Not sure much changed with the look of the headliner. I have trim to add but the glass windshield may also have an effect.

Sheet of black plastic over the roof of the car?
 
Go on Amazon and get a cheap steamer.

I never understood how heat or steam for that matter would remove wrinkles UNLESS the material shrinks a bit from heat and/or moisture.

My convert top has a section of wrinkles and the top guy said it will come out with some time in the sun. 4 years later and it's still there.
 
My painter friend told me I can bring the Dart in the second week in September. Installation of the windshields is now a priority. Gaskets and clips are on order. Channels are primed and painted. We are going to paint the engine bay and look at working the body on the driver’s side. I want to limit dust inside the car. Then I have a home for the engine and transmission.

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Sunday the fun should begin on the rear glass. Plan is:
1 Gasket on the glass with Windshield and Body Sealant (in the tube) already put in the channel.
2 Rope in the pinch weld seam on the gasket and pull the rubber lip to the inside. Windshield and Repair Sealant is used after the glass is set between the gasket and body.

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