1968 Plymouth Barracuda Fastback (old school build with a new school feel)

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I think I like the ''no upper and lower'' trim look -----------

That is the way I bought the car. I like it, it doesn't look bad, but it does still have the holes. I have ordered the clips to mount the trim on, but I think that i am going to two-tone paint them like I did to the tail light trim.
 
That is the way I bought the car. I like it, it doesn't look bad, but it does still have the holes. I have ordered the clips to mount the trim on, but I think that i am going to two-tone paint them like I did to the tail light trim.

Yeah , holes would suck !
 
I have rear end all cleaned up, and cut down to 56 5/8":
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All the parts were clamped down to a stright piece of 3" C channel, measured multiple times, tack welded, and measured after ever 2 or 3 tack welds to ensure straightness.

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Here are the 5/8" offset shackles from Ruffstuff for $11 each ($44 total, plus $8 shipping) that I bought to make the spring offset kit. I then altered them to be similar in length to the stock shackle length. All said and done, they mimic the original design pretty closely.

EDIT: They did not work. They were too thick in both directions. I can modify them but I wanted to get the rear back in. I will trim them out and retry them at another point in time (if I need them)

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And they were turned into this:

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Got the rear end all painted with Top Seal, POR15 in satin black (still wet). Hoping to finish it all up ad have the rear back in tomorrow.

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I got the rear all back in now, and the tires are a perfect fit. The rear is 56 5/8" wide, wheels are 15x8 with 3.75" backspacing (-19mm offset), and tires are 275/60/15's

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I rebuilt an A518, 46Rh from a 93 D250 Van to put into the Barracuda. The trans had no reverse when at operating temperature. I found the the rear servo was chipped on the edges, and metal pieces made it through the trans, scoring the overdrive piston retainer. I put a new Sonnax OD piston retainer in, Alto and raybestos clutches, replaced all seals/bushings throughout, had to replace a planetary gear assembly that was overheated, and upgraded to thicker billet servos with stronger springs and servo support rings. The valvebody was in good shape, and working properly so I just disassembled, cleaned, upgraded some springs and TV, then did a few mods for firmer shifts. My TCI 2600 stall converter came in after ordering it 2 months prior.

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To get the 46RH transmission installed I had to trim out the cross member for the transmission. Here was my initial trimming, which I had to do a little bit more trimming afterwards to get the trans in. I then made my own crossmember using existing bolt holes. This is just mock up only

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I used a GM polyurethane transmission mount, just had to oval the mounting holes slightly. I then mocked the trans in place and then bolted the first piece to the exiting old mount. I made the trans tale shaft to be down 5 degrees so I can put a spacer in to raise it as needed. This was the first trans mount I made, but then made a second one similar, but lighter and cleaner.

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Halle Berry
Marissa Tomei
Diane Lane
Salma Hayek
Sarah Jessica Parker
Courtney Cox
Catherine Zeta Jones
Demi Moore
Jennifer Aniston
Jenifer Lopez
Morgan Fairchild
Robin Wright
Julianne Moore

All 50+. I mean, I'm just saying....

And not all of them look good in a halter top and shorts. There's some real haints in that crowd.
 
Today, after work, I went out to the garage and finished the crossmember trimming and reinforcement. I am very happy with the turnout, came out well. I painted the welds with self etching primer and them sprayed with flex seal for undercoating.

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I had to order a new B&M flexplate for the A518/46RH as the 904 flexplate would not work with the torque converter. I probably could have ovalled a few holes and it would have worked, but I was not comfortable with that. The pics are not great as it was tough to get a good angle as the trans tucked so perfectly in the car with my self made crossmember. The transmission pan is above the header collectors also.

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the last pic of the wheels/body are about how mine looks except for the height away from the fender.. the top part of the tire is in the fender.

In those pics, the car is not on the ground so the gap looks much larger than it really is. When set down, the tire is just inside the lip. I may have to trim it a hair, but I will not be sure until I drive it.
 
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I ended up having to work a little late today, so I was not able to get a lot done when I got home. But I was able to get the 3" studs put in, the drilled/slotted rotors, carbon fiber/ceramic brakes installed, and new calipers put on.

My plan for the weekend is to finish the brake lines, bleed them, get the new rear KYB shocks put on, and finish hooking up the transmission.

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I got the brake lines on this weekend, and then moved to the engine compartment. I ended up getting the PITA flowtech headers off. I pulled the motor mounts, lifted the engine about 3" and still had to use the sawzall to cut each header into about 47 pieces. I got the Hedman ceramic shorties all bolted up, but no down pipes on yet. I am very pleased with them. Especially for a street car.
Don't judge on the beautiful radiator hose, this is how I bought the car.

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You've got me curious. Why 56 5/8"? That's a good bit too long for an A body rear axle housing.

That is total width, wheel mounting surface to WMS, not just housing width. Which is narrower than the A-body 57 1/8" wide rear.
I went this length because it was what worked with the wheels that I wanted to use. Also for the axles I already had.
 
That is total width, wheel mounting surface to WMS, not just housing width. Which is narrower than the A-body 57 1/8" wide rear.
I went this length because it was what worked with the wheels that I wanted to use. Also for the axles I already had.

Ok, that's pretty close then. I was "wonderin" for a minute. lol
 
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