1968 Plymouth Barracuda Fastback (old school build with a new school feel)

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Got a few of the bugs worked out of the Transmission swap. I ended up pulling the valve body back out of the trans and put a Sonnax pressure valve, replaced the pressure spring back to stock, and adjusted the pressure to the higher side of the Sonnax recommended specs.
Decided to start wiring up the transmission lock up switch and hydraulic OD switch. Transmission is working great so far.

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I had 3 pieces of rear truck trim, I didn't realize that the top and bottom were a little different from each other. So I bought the mounting clips from Classic Industries because no one else had them. I cleaned up the trim, added some black around the edge to match what I did to the tail lights, then put on a coat of Eastwood's Diamond Satin Clear, direct to metal. It came out nice, I am happy with the results. When I went to mock up the bottom, I realized that I had two top trim. I went and checked and I do have a bottom, but in rough shape. So now I will search for a 68 bottom trunk trim piece by or trade for a drivers quality top.
I also trimmed 1/4" off from the inner edge of the wheel opening for the tires. If I put an adult in the back seat, the lip would just touch the tire edge on bumps and hard turns. This seems to solve the issue so the quarter lip did not clearance the tires themselves, LOL. I still have not a chance to do the big bolt pattern brake swap on the front because I want to drive the car for now.

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Looking good ! I too am cutting my wheel opening lips back do to the exact same issue. The AMD quarters I put on had a 1 " lip so I'm cutting off a 1/4" each side.
 
Made a short video of a few revs. It sounds a lot better in person, it is a little deeper in person.
 
I am still working out a few bugs with the transmission. But I got the switches hooked up for the overdrive and lock up converter. The ashtray was not there and it had an old school FM transmitter in its place. I pulled the transmitter, cut a piece of 2" angle iron to fit, drilled it, and painted it. The switches just provide a ground to the switch, overdrive will only come on when in 3rd gear. The button on the left, closer to the driver is for the overdrive, right is for lock up.

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Been driving the car a lot so not many updates. I took the weekend and installed QA1 tubular UCA's, poly strut rod bushing, rubber LCA bushings, PST 1.03 bars, drilled/slotted disc brakes and rotors, new inner/outer tie rod ends. Now I just need to bleed the brakes and get an alignment.
Next upgrade will be the fast ratio manual steering box and a forged internal 408 stroker
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My son brought his pup out and helped me bleed the new brakes. He is always eager to help and loves the Barracuda. The car is still on jack stands in the front, getting the alignment close for now until I bring it to the shop.

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Best way. My XX year old daughter best remembers my 69 Hemi Roadrunner from the beep beep horn. lol.
 
I had 3 pieces of rear truck trim, I didn't realize that the top and bottom were a little different from each other. So I bought the mounting clips from Classic Industries because no one else had them. I cleaned up the trim, added some black around the edge to match what I did to the tail lights, then put on a coat of Eastwood's Diamond Satin Clear, direct to metal. It came out nice, I am happy with the results. When I went to mock up the bottom, I realized that I had two top trim. I went and checked and I do have a bottom, but in rough shape. So now I will search for a 68 bottom trunk trim piece by or trade for a drivers quality top.
I also trimmed 1/4" off from the inner edge of the wheel opening for the tires. If I put an adult in the back seat, the lip would just touch the tire edge on bumps and hard turns. This seems to solve the issue so the quarter lip did not clearance the tires themselves, LOL. I still have not a chance to do the big bolt pattern brake swap on the front because I want to drive the car for now.

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...and drive it you should, looks great!
 
Just took the barracuda to get the alignment done after all of the upgrades. Came out great, very happy with the car overall. All new bushings, tubular control arms, ball joints, tie rods, and shocks are by far the best upgrade..... so far.
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Just took the barracuda to get the alignment done after all of the upgrades. Came out great, very happy with the car overall. All new bushings, tubular control arms, ball joints, tie rods, and shocks are by far the best upgrade..... so far.
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What shocks did you use. And what do you like about them.
 
What shocks did you use. And what do you like about them.

I went with KYB shocks because I had to budget myself somewhere. I am very happy with them as they are firm, but not harsh. The combination of the KYB's, 340 leafs, 1.03 bars, and subframe connectors work really well together. I really love the flatness around corners as mine is a 99.9% street driven vehicle.
 
That’s how my 67’ is set up, stiff as a board on the street with the 1.03 PST, tubular upper control arms, 6 leaf rear +1”EPSO leaf springs. I have a front and rear sway bar that I want to install but haven’t gotten around to it. I’m not even sure the car needs them at this point. I do want to upgrade to the KYB’s or blistines. Currently I have junk Monroe’s on the front and dreaded air shocks on the back.
 
That’s how my 67’ is set up, stiff as a board on the street with the 1.03 PST, tubular upper control arms, 6 leaf rear +1”EPSO leaf springs. I have a front and rear sway bar that I want to install but haven’t gotten around to it. I’m not even sure the car needs them at this point. I do want to upgrade to the KYB’s or blistines. Currently I have junk Monroe’s on the front and dreaded air shocks on the back.

I had the air shocks on the back and a no name shock on the front when I bought the car. It is a night and day difference when I upgraded, but I did more than just them when I did it.
 
My car does not have the front sway does anyone make a kit or sell the brackets.
 
Started chasing a miss at idle and slight acceleration. Then getting a decent drip front he rear of the engine. Sprayed a little brake clean on the intake ports and the car about died when hit the #6 and #8 cylinders. Took the performer intake off the 318 and got it all scraped, brake cleaned, and whizzer wheeled
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I accidentally got the AC compressor wire caught between the intake & head once (over 35 years ago). Not only did I have a vacuum leak, but the AC kept blowing fuses.
 
I accidentally got the AC compressor wire caught between the intake & head once (over 35 years ago). Not only did I have a vacuum leak, but the AC kept blowing fuses.
Makes sense.
 
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