that is the rear window defogger on the passenger side
1969 Barracuda 340 Formula S Restoration
- Thread starter RealWing
- Start date
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Super-Cuda
MOPAR .. Move Over, Plymouth Approaching Rapidly!
Thanks! First time I've ever seen one!!
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Super-Cuda
MOPAR .. Move Over, Plymouth Approaching Rapidly!
My 67 fb has one and it's for rear defrost intake. If you look right above it you can see the discharge "slot" in the metal trim.
But cant see why it wouldn't work for speaker.
But cant see why it wouldn't work for speaker.
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You could certainly add a speaker there, however the correct factory location for a rear speaker option in on the driver side.
The defroster uses the same grille and trim piece as the speaker.
It was Option Code R31 and cost was $15.15 I believe
The defroster uses the same grille and trim piece as the speaker.
It was Option Code R31 and cost was $15.15 I believe
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Ahh I never realized there was a rear speaker option, thanks!
What a @#$%^ of a job it was to get the quarter window mechanisms out!!! Manual was completely wrong. Even after removing the mechanism, I have no idea how they installed that in the car on the assembly line in probably less than 60 secs!!!
Note the "dip line" that shows how far the car was dipped in the vats on the assembly line.
Note the "dip line" that shows how far the car was dipped in the vats on the assembly line.
Super-Cuda
MOPAR .. Move Over, Plymouth Approaching Rapidly!
Ya , Its a real ***** to get back in as well!! When I took mine out, I cleaned , wire wheeled , and completely relubed every part and piece, replaced the rollers and ensured the tension springs were ok. You probably know this but just in case, make sure all the tracks and surfaces the rollers travel over are free from burrs and casting flash. Im sure that's why mine were worn out as they were really bad. Guess they didn't think these parts would be around 50 years later LOL ! Also, I put everything back together before I painted the car as all this mechanism is hidden and you will most likely end up scratching the car trying to put this misery back in place after the car is painted. Good luck with it.
Finished stripping the rear cargo area. Took several hours work to remove all the factory seam sealer. That stuff is hard to remove!! Used the heat gun to soften it and then scrape it off. Found one rust hole. Looks like water was coming in where a bracket was welded to the right inner wheel well. Must be a small hole here.
The spot on the wheel well is a weird spot to rust. But over all super clean.
Those rear quarter windows are fun.
I always suggest going and getting a case of beer and after it’s gone and you still want to do it, go back and get another case cause your going to want it afterwards!
Took my arms and hands a few weeks each time for removal and re-install to heal up! Having done it once there are some tricks and going back in was a little easier but still challenging.
I always suggest going and getting a case of beer and after it’s gone and you still want to do it, go back and get another case cause your going to want it afterwards!
Took my arms and hands a few weeks each time for removal and re-install to heal up! Having done it once there are some tricks and going back in was a little easier but still challenging.
Rear seat footwell
Nice start for sure! Very clean! Mine had a lot more black gooey stuff across the seams though. Kinda looks like someone has been in there!
Mine also had the black seam sealer across the main seam across the rear of the front floor panel. It came off very easily.
Finally found a bare '69 Passenger door in great condition right here on FABO. Only problem is that it is in TN and I'm about 1275 Km (800 miles) away in Ontario, Canada!!! Although a long drive, I figure it is safer to go and get it rather that risk shipping. (maybe less expensive as well)
I did not know you were looking for a door. I must have missed that.
Any chance yer going by NC? LOL. I got a fender I need to pickup. (US border no like 4spdragtop)
$$ and/or parts reward for helping??
$$ and/or parts reward for helping??
Planning 1 day going down and 1 day back so it would be out of my way to also go to NC - sorry
CT might have bin closer
Guess it’s hard living north of the border sometimes. It is likely hard for stateside folks trying to sell parts up there as well.
Especially when 1 USD=1.35 CAD and then add on 13% taxes at the border
Oh yes- forgot about the VERY high courier costs if parts are shipped direct into Canada. I use a shipping depot in Port Huron to collect my parts and then I drive down to pick them up.
On the plus side, very often auto parts are significantly cheaper in the US than Canada.
Oh yes- forgot about the VERY high courier costs if parts are shipped direct into Canada. I use a shipping depot in Port Huron to collect my parts and then I drive down to pick them up.
On the plus side, very often auto parts are significantly cheaper in the US than Canada.
340sFastback
Well-Known Member
Great build thread. I have seen this car at Carlisle and was always impressed by it's condition and how well optioned it is. Looking forward to seeing more progress pics!
Dash is now out
The bulkhead connector suffered the dreaded meltdown a couple of years ago. I will definitely be eliminating that problem during the restoration!!! Will involve several modifications:
1. Send the instrument cluster to Redline to have the ammeter bypassed and converted to a voltmeter. (Will also have them convert the voltage regulator for the gauges to solid state plus some other restoration work)
2. Install an 8 Ga wire from the alternator direct to the starter relay battery terminal and install headlight relays in the engine compartment to remove a lot of load from the bulkhead connector. These were purchased from "crackedback" on FABO. His kits are top quality and well engineered.
The bulkhead connector suffered the dreaded meltdown a couple of years ago. I will definitely be eliminating that problem during the restoration!!! Will involve several modifications:
1. Send the instrument cluster to Redline to have the ammeter bypassed and converted to a voltmeter. (Will also have them convert the voltage regulator for the gauges to solid state plus some other restoration work)
2. Install an 8 Ga wire from the alternator direct to the starter relay battery terminal and install headlight relays in the engine compartment to remove a lot of load from the bulkhead connector. These were purchased from "crackedback" on FABO. His kits are top quality and well engineered.
Nice, A01 and N85 tach. What was mounted below the radio?
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